OO/N gauge possibilty. Now OO heritage Help Needed

[End2end]

So by moving the small piece of track from after to before the point, this will extent the platform track and also stop any rolling stock hitting the lowest platform whilst still giving you 2 sidings
Hope it makes more sense now.

Thanks
End2end

[barney121e]

So by moving the small piece of track from after to before the point, this will extent the platform track and also stop any rolling stock hitting the lowest platform whilst still giving you 2 sidings
Hope it makes more sense now.
hornby3E2E.jpg
Thanks
End2end

Like this?

[End2end]

Not quite, as the lowest platform track is still the same length.
If you notice on my last plan I've moved they tiny straight piece to the other side of the point. (the right hand side of the point instead of the left where it was in your plan originally). This elongates the platform straight before (to the right of) the point.
Thanks
End2end

EDIT... if you could add a plan showing the track numbers I can tell you exactly which piece to move.

[barney121e]

Not quite, as the lowest platform track is still the same length.
If you notice on my last plan I've moved they tiny straight piece to the other side of the point. (the right hand side of the point instead of the left where it was in your plan originally). This elongates the platform straight before (to the right of) the point.
Thanks
End2end

EDIT... if you could add a plan showing the track numbers I can tell you exactly which piece to move.

Think this makes sense

[End2end]

Perfect.
You could swap the tiny piece out for the ST202 but it would make the sidings that bit shorter, but it doesn't look like it needs it when it comes to rolling stock / platform clearance.

Just a couple of notes.
You can buy straight lengths of set track that are exactly twice the length of an ST201. Sorry I forget what code number they are off the top of my head. You'd need 2 for the through lines at the station. This may save you some money.

The length of ALL the dead end sidings can be maximized by using longer straights cut to length instead of settrack's set lengths. Even if it's just for a bufferstop. It makes all the difference.

You could also add a siding by adding a point to the new inner passing loop at the top, on the right hand side.
If you now add the full plan, I can show you what I mean.
Thanks
End2end

[End2end]

Just throwing ideas around, here's an alternative sidings set up for the lower right hand corner.
Rather than the sidings coming off the curve, coming off the lower track. This could give you up to 3 sidings, incorporating the idea from one of your original plan ideas which only gave 2 sidings.

Thanks
End2end

[barney121e]

Perfect.
You could swap the tiny piece out for the ST202 but it would make the sidings that bit shorter, but it doesn't look like it needs it when it comes to rolling stock / platform clearance.

Just a couple of notes.
You can buy straight lengths of set track that are exactly twice the length of an ST201. Sorry I forget what code number they are off the top of my head. You'd need 2 for the through lines at the station. This may save you some money.

The length of ALL the dead end sidings can be maximized by using longer straights cut to length instead of settrack's set lengths. Even if it's just for a bufferstop. It makes all the difference.

You could also add a siding by adding a point to the new inner passing loop at the top, on the right hand side.
If you now add the full plan, I can show you what I mean.
Thanks
End2end

Here you go.

[End2end]

Here it is in RED.

I've also drawn in a YELLOW and BLUE line just to highlight how this part of the layout can be used as a passing loop / train storage for same length trains without impeding continuous running on the inner oval.

Hope it helps.
Thanks
End2end

[barney121e]

Here it is in RED.

I've also drawn in a YELLOW and BLUE line just to highlight how this part of the layout can be used as a passing loop / train storage for same length trains without impeding continuous running on the inner oval.
hornby4bE2E.jpg
Hope it helps.
Thanks
End2end

Ok, think this is final plan.

[End2end]

Looking at your final plan I do see one snag.
On the plan the track doesn't join up properly where I have circled in RED.

This might be overcome by using a different radius set track piece instead of an ST230 or replacing the 2 pieces of track (ST230 and ST200) with one piece of flexitrack.
For the passing loop, you could start by laying the point at the red circled end, using a track gauge to keep the points parallel then move along leftwards.

Thanks
End2end

[Mike Parkes]

In Peco Setrack terms replacing the ST230 with a ST202 and a ST225 should resolve the matter.

[barney121e]

Looking at your final plan I do see one snag.
On the plan the track doesn't join up properly where I have circled in RED.

This might be overcome by using a different radius set track piece instead of an ST230 or replacing the 2 pieces of track (ST230 and ST200) with one piece of flexitrack.
For the passing loop, you could start by laying the point at the red circled end, using a track gauge to keep the points parallel then move along leftwards.
hornby5E2E.jpg
Thanks
End2end

Yes flexi track would work there. Do you know if sleepers on setrack is wood or concrete sleepers?

[barney121e]

In Peco Setrack terms replacing the ST230 with a ST202 and a ST225 should resolve the matter.

That works as well

[Mountain]

Looking at your final plan I do see one snag.
On the plan the track doesn't join up properly where I have circled in RED.

This might be overcome by using a different radius set track piece instead of an ST230 or replacing the 2 pieces of track (ST230 and ST200) with one piece of flexitrack.
For the passing loop, you could start by laying the point at the red circled end, using a track gauge to keep the points parallel then move along leftwards.
hornby5E2E.jpg
Thanks
End2end

Yes flexi track would work there. Do you know if sleepers on setrack is wood or concrete sleepers?

Sectional track is all wood sleepered. All points are wood sleepered as prototype points are nearly all wooden sleepered. This is because wood is more forgiving to any flex etc. Wooden sleepers are also still used for laying track in marshy conditions and in these areas sectional track is usually preferred due to the constant need to reballast these areas.
Concrete track needs dead flat ballast and if it does then it will last. If the trackbed is not flat then concrete sleepers can be prone to cracking so cannot be used. In the past for temporary track they would lay areas of track using "Lightweight" metal sleepers so when in the future they were ready to put concrete or wood sleepers down it was esy to lift the metal sleepered track. What started off as a temporary fix just to keep trains running ended up being so successful that some areas they never did change the sleepers and left them as metal. Metal sleepers have plastic inbetween the rails and the sleepers themselves so the track will not interfere with the track circuits.

Sectional track is layed in prototype form in steam era days with wooden sleepers but it is not so much dead rigid track as it is actually more like what we call flexible track but in shorter lengths. Still very much in use today due to enviroments that are marshy or in difficult terrain etc.