Back wall of garage 13' layout?

[GWandtheirDad]

I'm just wondering if anyone can offer advice before starting on a new baseboard or warn of any pitfalls before embarking.

My sons and I currently have a pull-down 8'x4' layout on the back garage wall. We would ideally like now to have something static to have more options with scenery and accessories, and to avoid niggly problems with the board and frame flexing ever so slightly each time the board is moved up and down - a similar effect to shaking out a rug.

We are considering a 13' ish layout on the back wall of the garage, with double or even quadruple track width at 00 standard 67mm centres, on 6mm or 9mm ply. It would need to be about 1300mm off the ground to clear the deep freeze and perhaps even allow enough room for a loop area above a car bonnet. With the 13' length a gradient would be a possibility. There are places where the wall comes in and out a bit which will be ideal for locating stations.

I'm thinking of having some kind of cover a foot or so above the track to stop any spalling from the brickwork falling onto the track. I think we will need some kind of railing on the edge of the layout in case or locos/rolling stock falling off.

Any advice would be welcomed. Thanks in advance.

[Bufferstop]

I'd suggest hanging battens from the roof with some tube lights under them (garages are usually pretty dimly lit) with a lightweight nylon cover between the battens and the wall. You might even want a rolled up curtain that you can drop down the front when not in use. The car is the only fly in the ointment, putting a wet car in with your layout may give you problems.

[Ironduke]

How wide is this 13' baseboard?

If you use Peco Streamline track, the centres are 50mm, not 67, allowing you to put more tracks in a small space. Even if you need curves of settrack radius at the ends, you can ease into them from 50mm centres.

I'd consider the feasibility of making the long part of the layout on that cantilever shelving with the slotted posts that they use in shops. Then you can put shelves under it for storage and over it for "roof" and lighting and the height is adjustable.
https://www.twinslotshelving.co.uk/twin-slot

[Flashbang]

One thing to consider is how you can access all parts of the layout. While you can reach around 3 foot from the front, any scenic items along the front or just in from the front will get damaged when reaching across, so aim for a maximum reach to any part of no more than 2 foot (600mm). This may well mean having an opening in the middle of the baseboard?

Operating height of 1.3Mtrs (4 foot ish) shouldn't cause too much of a issue, except for children seeing things easily.

Ensure gradients are no greater than 1 in 30 maximum and shallower if possible. Also remember that any curve included in the gradient increases drag on the pulling loco, so make the rise shallower where a curve in included.

[pete12345]

I'll add a couple of mostly-relevant thoughts.

A fixed layout is a good plan and the height doesn't sound problematic. Arrange for an opening in the middle of the board and operate from there so you can get to all of it. Sometimes a small step-up stool is useful to improve access to the corners, especially for smaller people.

Multiple concentric loops are great for watching four trains going round, but unless you have a huge space it doesn't look very railwaylike. Plus you need more pointwork to connect it all together. I'd stick to double track, perhaps with four tracks and platforms through the station area. This allows one train to pass another which is held in the station.For added interest, find room for an industry or goods yard where a third operator can shunt wagons around.

Aim to have a few 'off-stage' loops where trains can be stored out of sight. This means you can run a more complex service and don't have to watch the same train circulating all day.

For a simple rolling stock catcher, finish the edges of the board with strips of hardboard which protrude slightly above the board level. This gives a barrier to errant stock as well as containing and protecting the scenery. It can hide less than precise carpentry too!

[GWandtheirDad]

Thanks for all your invaluable advice everybody! We've just got a DIY job in hand making sure the garage stays waterproof, then we'll get cracking!

[GWandtheirDad]

Just to say we are all up and successfully running! I went for the twin-slot shelving for the main run. This has the added advantage of being able to remove a manageable section to work in the house - not the we have remotely had time to work on scenery. At either end of the main length there are loops to allow continuous running. Each loop has an operating well in the centre, which the boys enjoy popping their heads up through and which means all parts can be easily reached. I got some transparent perspex for the edges in case of any accidents - 600x30mm lengths I think. We just have a small electrical niggle to sort out but all good otherwise.

[Ironduke]

Photos please