How to test a Hornby-Dublo 3 rail loco

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Can someone please tell me how do I test a Hornby-Dublo 3 rail loco to see if it works?

On 2 rail locos I use a 9v square battery on opposite wheels but I don't know how power is picked up with 3 rail loco's.
Thanks
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[Mountain]

You may need a little more power then a little 9 volt battery. An ordinary DC controller preferably an amp or more, though it should work with less, but do not expect it to do any more then turn its wheels.

The three rail system with HD works by the central skate (Or plungers) being the one pick up, and all the wheels being the other. It actually works really well as all the wheels going through the couplings to all the wagons or coaches help picking up the power from the rails, and the ce tral rail skates do a lot to keep the central rail clean while it is in use... So it is very reliable in this respect.

The most common issue today is with weak magnets due to age. I changed nearly all my magnets to the neo type, but one can get them re-magnetized instead if one wants. What loco is it?

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You'll encounter one of two types of 3rd rail pickup, the most common was a pair of spoon like sprung skates which fitted between the driving wheels, they were sprung at either end of a short metal box, a central fixing screw went up through the chassis held at top and bottom with an insulating bush. A single short length of wire connected this to one of the motor brush caps (which was insulated from the chassis. The other brush cap was fitted directly into the motor frame which was energised through the wheels and axles. The only other wiring you may find is for the TV suppression components.
The second type was used on the motor bogies of the diesels and electrics. A plunger with a domed head was mounted in a central bracket on one end of each bogie. If you come across a two rail class 20 you'll see the empty bracket on the end of the bogie.

As Mountain said you won't get much action from your PP3 battery, from memory I think they would just about be starting to move on 8-9volts, drawing just under 1A when running light, if I really loaded one up it would start to make the magnetic cut-out buzz at about 1.3A and trip with a satisfying bang at 1.5A

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Thanks members.
It's a Hornby Dublo EDL17 Class N2 0-6-2T 69567

A friend was given some trains and asked (as he knows I use the forum) if I could ask around for some help to identify them and how to test to see if they work. He doesn't have any track or a controller and is miles away for me to help him physically.

Identifying the N2 was fairly easy due to the loco's number 69567. A search revealed only the HD 3 rail model but as mentioned previously I wouldn't have a clue how to test it to see if it runs.

The others, as far as I can tell from his pictures are all 2 rail so they are easier to test.
I'll pass on all the information to him.
Thanks
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[Bigmet]

... A friend was given some trains and asked (as he knows I use the forum) ... how to test to see if they work ...

My best advice would be, don't, if the intention is to sell them. I am not 'precious' about model railway items, and he is completely free to do whatever he wants; but I have lost count of how many times what might have been a good buy has proved to be a wreck not worth bothering with because someone with no knowledge has 'had a go at getting it going'. Anyone for a Bachmann N class with oil 'injected' into the Buhler can motor? (The 'not running' problem was a bent connecting rod locked on the leading wheelset crankpin.)

Unless that is he wants to take up the hobby. In which case advice on what to do and what not to do, and tooling up, is what's required. Remove the loco body, make sure the motor turns freely and the driven wheels rotate, etc.; buy a set of small screwdrivers, sewing machine oil, small needle or thin piece of wire to apply it, put the cans of WD40 and 3in1 oil in a place where there is no temptation to use them, etc.

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Thanks Bigmet. Sound advice.
I shall pass it on to him.
Thanks
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