Dad-1 - Workbench - West Bay Wagon Works

[BrightonMan]

Doing a little bit of this
and then drifting back to things I've left behind.

That sounds familiar, I'm always doing that. Half finished or nearly finished jobs all over the place! Lovely work on that Mermaid Dad 1.

[Dad-1]

Thanks for the comments Mountain & BrightonMan,

Last evening I got one of the remaining 3 Mermaids out of it's package.
OH dear !! The previous (now deceased) owner had tried, which is as kind a comment
as I can make. Some bits partially stuck, some bits missing and a few parts broken.
Much pondering, but I'm up for the challenge as the only missing parts are the 6 rollers
that sit under the body. These are essential as they are attached to the body, but have
to sit on the smaller rail and this sets the height of hopper above chassis. Not only does
influence the length of chains at each end, but I want to match height with the one I've
just finished. It was a relief to note the other 2 were not started in any way !!

Plasticard with wet-n-dry paper at the ready.

BrightonMan, I call it 'Butterfly syndrome' the newest idea is the one to go for leaving the
fading flower behind. One aircraft kit I started took over 10 years to finish it !!

Geoff T.

[Dad-1]

Hi Dave,

I know I'm MAD !!! which is rather different to being angry.
So the rollers were missing, now if you go back to the 4th picture from the bottom of that last posting you'll see the 3 small roller wheels
on each tip-rail. Here are my plasticard versions.



Luckily out of focus you can see the far end where I didn't bother to make round rollers, but used a square-cut base to get a really good
strong attachment. These rollers are the only part attached to the hopper, the rail beam attached to the chassis so this connection needs
to be strong.

I've said before this is not a beginners kit. Somehow they expect you to join two solebars and two buffer beams together, square and
flat, then fill in the top with the chassis framework. You can't make a simple jig with protrusions on the parts. In addition I always add
in my wheel sets while all the joints are still soggy with the glue. 7 soggy bits all at one time and they MUST be square and flat !!

I use a low tension elastic band around the axle boxes to hold the solebars positively onto the axle ends. This third hand allows you to
check all the other joints and make minor adjustment while the glue's still quite damp. Yes a flat square chassis is possible - just. I used
a random wheel set out of my spares and fear I've used before as they're covered in paint and perhaps not the truest, but the chassis is
diagonal rock free.



I've put in the plastic onto which the Parkside NEM coupling blocks will sit. Had to leave then for glues to harden. Probably do a little more
this evening. It is already beginning to look like it'll work out O.K, still a few problems to sort.





My decals should arrive soon.

Geoff T.

[Dad-1]

The working chassis now with couplings





Couplings harmonized with other rolling stock to get identical height, so important for good reliable running.

I will add just a few grams of lead, but generally try to add as little extra weight as possible. Added weight will
and can make things worse rather than better and anyway these are engineers wagons so will not be running in
long freight trains. I think the longest train in mind for these is around 15 or 16.

Chassis now circling St Oval

Geoff T

[Dad-1]

Bad habits can be hard to drop !!
The 'damaged' kit is biting back as a few parts collapse as a result of having been teased apart.
While this slowed production I couldn't resist starting kit No.3, a nice sealed bag, nothing broken.

This time I thought I'd show a few other mods and differing axle set use. First the axle sets, I have
a tin into which all of my 3 hole wagon wheels are stored and they tend to be used on the first picked
out set wins. For my first build I used a set of Alan Gibson wheels and the very light chassis performed
well enough to pass all my rolling tests on St Oval. The part built reclaimed chassis No.2 has Dapol wheel
sets fitted and this completed the forwards tests with flying colours, but failed the reversing test where
it was pushing 3 wagons and 5 heavy oil tanks - it derailed. This almost certainly because of the extremely
light chassis combined with the very small and rounded profile Dapol wheel flanges. As a comparison here
are the 3 types.

Top is Hornby, second Alan Gibson, bottom Dapol. The small differences in taper end profile is not a problem



The No.3 kit will be having Hornby wheels fitted.
I mentioned earlier how the brakes are intended to be attached to stubs on the solebars. This has spacing for P4
and to get correct alignment with the '00' wheels I've been cutting these pips off and drilling a shallow hole into
which plastic rod will seat. Small pieces of plastic rod anchored into the brake hangar mounting holes.



Note the rather crude looking tapered axle holes which I open up with a 2.0 mm drill, aided with a shallow countersing
from a 3.2 mm drill to allow the top-hat on my bearings to embed.



3 on the go, will the 4th and final one survive the weekend in it's bag ?
Don't count on it !!

I will get onto some new project soon - Perhaps a Cambrian 'Shark', or take an easy route to do a Parkside kit ?

Geoff T.

[Dad-1]

Hi Dave, Easy, It's a small rectangle of P280 wet-n-dry paper that I use to clean off rough edges
and fettle plastic mouldings. The smaller whiteish piece is the slide top to my fine drills box.

I've just used some super fine scales and what's shown is that wheel sets themselves vary by quite a lot.

My fully finished (except decals and a little paint) with the lead infill and chain and Alan Gibson wheels -- - 17.94 grams
The damaged one with the lead infill, but no chain due for a little more paint & decals with Dapol wheels - 20.18 grams
The almost made, again needing more paint and decals, no lead infill or chain fitted with Hornby wheels - 19.05 grams

A running session on St Oval with all three. The forwards speed of scale 15 mph and 20 minutes fine, reversing 3 full circuits
at a scale 6 mph again no problems. As can be seen these are very light, yet in reverse were pushing between 8 & 10 wagons,
due to being wagon numbers 9,10 & 11 in the train.



I was never intending to have an engineers train, but now have 2 x Catfish, I crane, 2 match trucks, a mess van, 3 soon to
be 4 Mermaids, a Borail with a load of 60 ft lengths of rail and still to build a Dogfish and Shark brake plough. Perhaps another
Borail with sleepered track load ?, or even a Whiting sleeper wagon ?

Oh and out of boring interest I believe the first 89 Mermaids were ZJO DB989000 - 989088 with no vacuum braking, the ZJV
were DB989089 - 989638. On checking some pictures it would seem that many if not all ZJO's were given vacuum brakes. This
is guess work, but noted patches of red-oxide paint on sides over painting something ? probably the ZJO code ??
If any reader knows better let me know.

Geoff T.

[Bufferstop]

Went to the resurrected Motor Museum yesterday. Bought the DCCconcepts axlebox reamers. They make a significant difference even without inserting a bearing cup. From the number of stands displaying Parkside kits in their hundreds, Peco would appear to have been very active in producing them. If I do identify a wagon that I should but don't have I'll be taking a look at their lists. As well as needing one I would also need the space in my sidings to stable it as well. My branch goods shed looks set to become the Carriage and Wagon Dept. as Winchcombe has.

[Dad-1]

Hi Bufferstop,

DCC Concepts do some interesting small tools, the wire bender sounds useful for someone like me.
I'm pleased that Peco are pushing their Parkside range, they are generally quite easy to make up
and it is an extensive and variable list of kits, GWR, LMS, LNER, BR.
This thread is all about encouraging people to have a go - but take my warnings on difficult kits.

Geoff T.

[Bufferstop]

Any plastic wheels I discard go in a box. Not a clue why I keep them. I went to put some in the box and came across a sprue with two axles on it, looks exactly the same as the one you have from the Cambrian kit. These are from a Ratio 4 wheel coach! Did a Ratio kit ever go to Cambrian I wonder?

[Dad-1]

Probably a final fling of detail from Marmaid construction.
It seems most Cambrian Kits were designed for P4 brake alignment. Frustrating if you don't know, but easy
enough to get around when you do.

Here we have plastic rod glued into the locating hole of each brake hanger.



You do have to lightly trim around the end to clear chassis member, but here afixed into the shallow holes drilled in the solebars
where the moulded pip were trimmed off. A nice positive fit and now in line with the wheels.



In that picture you can see the minimal lead weight added into a void left from fixing couplings.
This came back and bit me as this tip runner rail end kept on breaking off. Damage from the original rubbish build
It took 4 attempts to eventuall get strong enough to survive being painted !!



While it may not look too bad, even better when painted and weathered, this brake lever was in 4 pieces and was gently
persuaded to stay together.



My decals still not here, and although I didn't start No.4 over the weekend I will begin soon while I remember the best way
to make one. At least the undamaged No.3 was easy so the final one should go together well enough !

What next ??
Probably to finish this years diorama .....

Geoff T.

[Dad-1]

I just thought I'd let visitors to this thread who may not look at my diorama thread
see why I'll be slowing for a while. I have just a few weeks to finish this Diorama for the club's
2019 competition.

The puddle isn't shiny enough, a natural drainage from the embankment. more gloss varnish needed



It was the occupational under bridge that inspired this scene. Here the narrow sliver at the back.



More to do than you may guess !

Geoff T.

[Bufferstop]

It's quite a creditable damp patch all the same. I'd be a bit cautious making less shiny again it could prove difficult. A jolly good diorama as it is, just a very ordinary bit of scenery but every bit of it is detail. I usually only get it looking that good by accident.

[TimberSurf]

I like the sun bleached grass near the top of the embankment!

[Dad-1]

Thank you Bufferstop & TimberSurf for the kind comments.

I will very soon be back to producing one, or two more wagon kits.
I'm waiting for some decals to be sent to finish the 'Mermaid' ballast wagons and an almost forgotten
Parkside Mica fresh meat wagon.

Probably the last shot of my 'Old Farmhouse' diorama. Just a little extra vegetation, reeds around the back
of that pond and an odd bush. It's already been returned to my shed.





If I've not posted any/many pictures of the GWR Mica B X7 the above blank space will
have one added, when I find, or if I'd not even taken photos a new one !!
Only 2 pictures - none of the build, but it stalled because of those end wire grab rails that you
have to bend from 0.5 mm wire. It too k a long time to get 4 that looked alike !!

Geoff T.

[Dad-1]

While still awaiting decals ordered on 4th November I've started another kit, or more !!
First not yet started, but interesting with regard to it's vintage. Here is the packet in
which is a Ratio Coke Wagon kit, look at the stamp. I suspect this is from the early 1960's
well before Ratio became one of the Peco Brands. As the original addressee is long deceased
there is no harm in showing the full address, look Ratio at Chorleywood - that IS history.



The started project is another Cambrian kit, but this time their 'Shark' 20 Ton Plough Brake
Van, Kit No.c14.



Here I'm checking all the parts against instructions making certain of the condition. This again
is an old kit and a couple from my source did have broken parts and one part constructed. Here
it's all present and correct. I will remove parts from the sprues and clean up any flash to improve
parts fit.

Funny, it was never my intention to have an engineers train, but that's where my current efforts
are directed. A long way to go on this build, including finding out (If I can) what colour the first
4 that were made at Derby in 1951 were painted, could have been Bauxite rather than the later
Black ????

Geoff T.