Wandle Park

Post pictures and information about your own personal model railway layout that is under construction. Keep members up-to-date with what you are doing and discuss problems that you are having.
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Bufferstop
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Re: Wandle Park

Postby Bufferstop » Wed Mar 27, 2019 10:58 pm

MikeM's kits come in for quite a bit of hacking around, I took one of his rows of houses, turned the PDF back into a JPG and applied perspective to them so that they appeared to be at an angle to the wall in front. They are great for backscenes because you can chop and match to rearrange them in ways you hesitate to do with one of the "photo realistic" background sheets.
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BrightonMan
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Re: Wandle Park

Postby BrightonMan » Thu Mar 28, 2019 7:46 am

Bufferstop wrote:and applied perspective to them so that they appeared to be at an angle to the wall in front.

What do you use to do that, Bufferstop?

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Bufferstop
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Re: Wandle Park

Postby Bufferstop » Thu Mar 28, 2019 10:54 am

I used to have an add on to Paint Shop Pro that did it in software, but it died along with Windows XP. Knowing XP was going, I tried printing at the highest resolution my printer could manage 1200 dpi, took ages, and re-scanning. It was actually better than the software. These days if I'm doing it for a backscene I don't even bother about the resolution, backscenes look a little better if they are a bit "soft focus." When I thought about what the software was doing it was obvious that it would try to impose a mathematical precision which wasn't required. .
This is the row of houses running at an angle to the wall.
35501954272_51d0140c33_b.jpg

Back in the days of XP I don't think I could have got away with this, but this is just doing it in Windows 10 with Paint Shop Pro to do the cropping
I took a screen shot of the PDF; Pasted it in to Paint Shop Pro; Cropped it to the bit I wanted; and saved it as a JPG.
shops.jpg

I've taken it up to 400% on screen and it looks fine. I'm about to try printing it. Back soon.

Printing it "to fit" on A4 copy paper at "good" quality is a little over 100% size and it's quite useable for a background. I did check with Mike if he minded me saying what I'd done, and he was quite happy as long as I wasn't selling off the results.
Growing old, can't avoid it. Growing up, forget it!
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BrightonMan
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Re: Wandle Park

Postby BrightonMan » Thu Mar 28, 2019 7:41 pm

Thanks for the info. I've still got XP on my PC, it does what I want it do so quite happy with it.

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BrightonMan
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Re: Wandle Park

Postby BrightonMan » Tue Apr 02, 2019 10:44 pm

Platform under construction
WP Platform 002 small.jpg
WP Platform 001 small.jpg

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BrightonMan
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Re: Wandle Park

Postby BrightonMan » Mon Apr 08, 2019 8:49 am

I have this bad habit of jumping from one job to another, so even though the platform is still unfinished and the retaining wall is still missing it's coping stones, I've started building the bridge that will form the fiddle-yard entry point at the 'Wimbledon' end of the layout. And some bushes have sprouted at the platform end..
WP New Bridge 004 small.jpg
WP New Bridge 002 small.jpg

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GreenBR
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Re: Wandle Park

Postby GreenBR » Thu Apr 11, 2019 9:10 am

Hello,
Dont know what it is about your photographs but you do appear to have what i call (The card modelling gift) hope mine will be as good when i start.
Regards
Stephen

Apparently my memory has been degraded - so i am not stupid after all - what a relief!

http://www.mainline-railways.co.uk http://www.preserved-railways.co.uk

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glencairn
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Re: Wandle Park

Postby glencairn » Thu Apr 11, 2019 11:53 am

Coming along nicely, BrightonMan. Well done.

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Bufferstop
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Re: Wandle Park

Postby Bufferstop » Thu Apr 11, 2019 5:10 pm

I think that whatever you use in the foreground the flatness of printed card helps the transition from 3D to 2D, just avoid getting a shine on the surface. I use normal copy paper rather than photo papers, it helps avoid the over bright chocolate box covers (over saturation of colours). I have a huge roll of 70gsm paper 8.5" wide that was intended to go into a cheapo Korean photocopier, it'll last me for years. My printer driver allows me to do continuous printing but limits it to the length of two A3 sheets for some obscure reason. The first 4 ink colour printer I used had a third party program that allowed unlimited length, but was hellish slow. I think it was the slowness that allowed the computer to change the contents of its memory whilst it was chugging away printing out the first bit you sent to it.
Growing old, can't avoid it. Growing up, forget it!
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BrightonMan
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Re: Wandle Park

Postby BrightonMan » Fri Apr 12, 2019 10:04 pm

Thanks for the nice comments. Bufferstop, I did try printing the backscene parts on photo paper but it didn't look right at all - far to shiney. Your right about the flatness of the card helping to blend the layout into the backscene. It hadn't even crossed my mind until I started building the layout, but it does seem to work well.

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BrightonMan
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Re: Wandle Park

Postby BrightonMan » Sun Apr 21, 2019 10:48 am

This map shows where my fictional station fits into the real world. The passenger service on this line only consisted of 2 coach EMU's shuttling between West Croydon and Wimbledon, but freight traffic was very heavy serving many industries along the line. Originally single track throughout it's length, the line was doubled to provide a freight-only line after electrification in the 1930's. It closed in 1997 and the route is now part of the Croydon Tramlink network.
WC-WIM routemap.png

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joshv8
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Re: Wandle Park

Postby joshv8 » Wed May 01, 2019 1:31 pm

Some really stunning work here, Im loving the backscenes and watching the trackwork take shape is coming together very nicely.

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Bufferstop
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Re: Wandle Park

Postby Bufferstop » Wed May 01, 2019 3:51 pm

BrightonMan wrote:Thanks for the nice comments. Bufferstop, I did try printing the backscene parts on photo paper but it didn't look right at all - far to shiney. Your right about the flatness of the card helping to blend the layout into the backscene. It hadn't even crossed my mind until I started building the layout, but it does seem to work well.

Shine and reflections, along with shadows in the wrong places play havoc with any attempt at joining the 3D and 2D worlds. Tall structures like signals and telegraph poles need either to be flat against the backscene or sufficiently far forward for their shadows to fall on the model not the wall. It helps to have the light source in the right place. My main lighting is three five foot "natural daylight tubes" as used in design studios and shop displays. They are mounted about a metre above the layout, one third of the board's width from the wall and screened from view by a deep valance or pelmet. From that position shadows going towards the wall are fairly short and don't actually make it to the backscene. If you look through my layout thread you'll find a photo of the viaduct where I positioned a fill in light at just the wrong angle and produced curved shadows visible through the arches.
Reflections and shine spoil the appearance of models because the reflections are of real world items, seen from angles that we don't normal view from. Take a look at some photos of the first generation diesels when the were new. You will see that the sides are glossy and very uneven, mainly the sheet metal bowing outwards between the lines of pop rivets that held the skin to the framing. It reflects but in a very random manor which our eyes are accustomed to. The model of course has much flatter sides, and mirrors things in the real rather than model world. "Shine" or "gloss" is a term we use to describe an objects level of reflectivity. If we reduce the reflectivity of a model we reduce both the shine and the innapropriate reflections from the objects around it. So we end up with a flat painted model lacking in the correct degree of reflectivity, gloss varnish adds reflectivity, semi gloss varnish restores some reflectivity, but this is one area in which there are no hard and fast rules, somewhere between matt and gloss will produce the right look in a particular setting, and that's about as good as anyone can say, what looks right in the right setting is as right as you can get it.
For backscenes and models of buildings etc. shine is definitely out, so any paint or varnish must be matt. the surface also affects shine, so if you are printing you need a rougher surface than photo quality paper. Older brick papers were often printed on thin paper which could be too shiny. I found that by scanning random stone paper and playing about with the RGB or CMY settings (depending on software) I could get an image that had strong joint lines but only light shading of the surfaces. I could print it onto the rougher side of paper cut from manilla envelopes, definitely no shine, looks far less flat, specially if you cut the quoins (big square blocks) at the corners and stick them onto the surface. Someone recently asked how long it took to scribe all the lines in the stone, so it must work.
Growing old, can't avoid it. Growing up, forget it!
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joshv8
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Re: Wandle Park

Postby joshv8 » Wed May 01, 2019 9:43 pm

Thats good information bufferstop. Just to add to that when painting anything you want to be a flat/ matt finish, the richer the tone of colour the glossier it will appear.

Theres some good flat products out there but at times one may be trying to get away with cheap paints etc, mixing in glues for adhesion can make them glossy. Even some advertised matt products are not that matt.

Using black for example, and we rarely use straight black in modelling. If you have straight black and a black thats been toned down with a drop of white or maybe ochre, and spray with a matt varnish so you know the matt levels are the same, the pure black will look glossier.
Just a tip to keep in mind when playing with colours.


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