Hatford Junction Loft Layout

[LittleReggie]

Hi,

Just my two pence worth. Would you not be better off going for streamline points at this stage rather than setrack, as your plan is basically free flowing and not constricted by setrack geometry? The benefits of streamline points over setrack are well documented.

Regards,
Reg.

[scoops]

Hi thanks for your reply. What is the difference between the setrack point and the small radius streamline point? My problem is that I have twelve points all ready so the cost of replacing them all would be considerable.

Cheers

Tim

[LittleReggie]

Hi,

I was hoping someone else would answer this as my knowledge on the subject is limited.

However....

I'm not not sure if any streamline points are of as small a radius as setrack points but there is a far greater choice of radii anyway. Regardless of this, I'm fairly sure all Peco streamline points can be obtained as electrofrog (metal frog, which is more reliable than the plastic frog of standard points).

There also seems to be a general consensus that Peco points are better (more reliable) than Hornby anyway. What make of points are yours? The fact you already have the setrack points might make all this irrelevant anyway, but I think most people would agree that setrack points on a flowing flexitrack design do look sort of "wrong".

I'm sure someone will come along and say I'm talking bull if I am.

Regards.

[luckymucklebackit]

Streamline points are not interchangeable with Set-Track points, even the small radius streamline points are longer by about half an inch and have a different angle of turnout (12 degrees) Set-Track points have a 22.5 degree angle of turnout. See http://www.peco-uk.com/page.asp?id=tempc100 for the templates, you can print these off and compare with Set-track.

Jim

[scoops]

Been a while since I last updated this post. The railway has progressed slightly but has been hampered by the lastest screaming bundle of joy and work!

I have attached a couple of photos of the layout. I am now relatively happy with the track plan so it is now about moving onto landscaping, ballasting etc!!!

[scoops]

OK all so after a long absence things have changed so it is time for an update.

Hatford Junction is now dead as we have sold up and moved house. Haatford Junction (intentional change of spelling) is currently being planned and started in the loft of the new house. The loose plan is to double the length from 10 foot x 10 foot to 10 foot x 20 foot!

Now what I need is some advice on levels. As before I am building in the 'V' of the rafters by placing a horizontal beam across and then setting my 2 foot x 6 foot board modules on top. I remember from the last time that it was a nightmare trying to get everything level so I thought I would ask this time.

Does anyone have a nice easy way of setting a level across the 20 foot length with say a plum line string etc that I could then screw my cross members to? At the moment I am having to measure up for each one from the floor and it is not proving easy as some areas are floored and some are exposed floor rafters.....help????!

[luckymucklebackit]

Have you considered a laser level? They can be bought for £50 or as an alternative some places hire out the more expensive models. They are not difficult to use.

Jim

[scoops]

Have you considered a laser level? They can be bought for £50 or as an alternative some places hire out the more expensive models. They are not difficult to use.

Jim

I had but I am desparately trying to keep costs to the minimum after the house move. I was more thinking of a level string running from end to end but I just dont know how to get it level.

Tim

[TimberSurf]

Laser levels can be had for £50-£100, but only have 1 beam, you really need a spinning one that can be £200-£800!
Strangely even the £2000 ones you can hire are not even that accurate! You might lose 1-2mm over 20ft!

Old tried and tested, simple is best.

A water level is deadly accurate, easy to use (fix one end then just wander around with the other) and very cheap.
Example https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLEAR-FLEXIB ... N1EiMwLnhA

Get 10 meters, put a drop of washing liquid and a drop of red/blue food colourant in the water before filling.
Get a couple of bungs for the two ends, to stop accidentally spilling water when not in use.

If that doesn't float yer boat, just get a 6ft spirit level! https://www.screwfix.com/p/forge-steel- ... 00mm/4351c

[Roger (RJ)]

You can stretch a length of string from one end to the other and then hang a line level (a small spirit level) on the string. Example of a line level. https://tinyurl.com/yawjdsp8
Stabila isn't the cheapest brand but they make good quality levels.

[Bufferstop]

I needed a shorter spirit level to work in a tight location, the one I bought came with a free line level. It's also very useful for track laying as it's short enough to stand across the rails to check for cant.