My next micro OO layout construction only has 3 points on it.
I would like to operate these manually from behind the back board.
Looking for a simple and very reliable way of doing this. It would be an above board system as there is only a 1" by 2" frame supporting the ply board.
Happy to buy products to do this as I am not a very confident modeler.
Manual Point Operation. HELP
Manual Point Operation. HELP
The Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, “Linking 13 Great States With The Nation.”
Re: Manual Point Operation. HELP
Take a look at Gem products.
I've made my own. Basic details on Llwyndrissi Halt thread in the section of layouts under construction section of this forum. You will find them on pages 4 and 5 or thereabouts.
I've made my own. Basic details on Llwyndrissi Halt thread in the section of layouts under construction section of this forum. You will find them on pages 4 and 5 or thereabouts.
Last edited by Mountain on Thu Dec 21, 2017 12:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Modelling On A Budget ---》 https://www.newrailwaymodellers.co.uk/F ... 22&t=52212
Re: Manual Point Operation. HELP
2" x 1", O.K which way around as 2" is loads, even 1" should give room for under board mechanisms.
Worth a look at My HSII - Kadee Experiments thread and you'll see two points worked by metal rods.
viewtopic.php?f=22&t=50741&start=30#p628357
Geoff T.
Worth a look at My HSII - Kadee Experiments thread and you'll see two points worked by metal rods.
viewtopic.php?f=22&t=50741&start=30#p628357
Geoff T.
Remember ... I know nothing about railways.
http://www.newrailwaymodellers.co.uk/Fo ... 22&t=32187 and Another on http://www.newrailwaymodellers.co.uk/Fo ... &sk=t&sd=a
http://www.newrailwaymodellers.co.uk/Fo ... 22&t=32187 and Another on http://www.newrailwaymodellers.co.uk/Fo ... &sk=t&sd=a
- Bufferstop
- Posts: 13840
- Joined: Thu Mar 11, 2010 12:06 pm
- Location: Bottom end of N. Warks line
Re: Manual Point Operation. HELP
Wire in tube or push rods are the most suitable for a micro layout. Run on the surface there's little between them. Push rods are simply that metal plastic or even wood that doesn't bend, with a wire link to the tie bar. They need some kind of tube around them to keep them out of contact with the scenery. Wire in tube uses piano wire in PTFE or brass tube. It's slightly more adaptable in that the tube can be laid around gentle curves for points not parallel to the edge of the board. Take a look at these for method and supplies.
For just three points you could do a lot worse than buying three longish plastic three or four millimetre knitting needles, they even come with knobs moulded on the end. Plastic drinking straws should suffice to keep scenic materials out of contact with them.
For just three points you could do a lot worse than buying three longish plastic three or four millimetre knitting needles, they even come with knobs moulded on the end. Plastic drinking straws should suffice to keep scenic materials out of contact with them.
Growing old, can't avoid it. Growing up, forget it!
My Layout, My Workbench Blog and My Opinions
My Layout, My Workbench Blog and My Opinions
- TimberSurf
- Posts: 2537
- Joined: Wed Jan 08, 2014 5:47 pm
- Location: N.Wales
- Contact:
Re: Manual Point Operation. HELP
Here are a few suppliers
https://anticsonline.uk/N1587_MerControl/index.html
http://modratec.com/
https://balsamart.co.uk/store/index.php ... 20a&page=2
Many use R/C linkages too.
There are actually a lot of old threads on this forum too!
https://anticsonline.uk/N1587_MerControl/index.html
http://modratec.com/
https://balsamart.co.uk/store/index.php ... 20a&page=2
Many use R/C linkages too.
There are actually a lot of old threads on this forum too!
- luckymucklebackit
- Posts: 3720
- Joined: Mon Jul 18, 2011 7:05 am
- Location: Eaglesham (Again)
- Contact:
Re: Manual Point Operation. HELP
I am planning a similar manually operated extension to the layout, I am planning to butcher the spokes from an old bicycle wheel and operate via them
This Signature Left Intentionally Blank, but since I have written this and I intended to do it, this Signature is intentionally not blank. Paradox or What?
My layout - Gateside and Northbridge
![Image](http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8329/8370363176_df27c9fdb8_n.jpg)
My layout - Gateside and Northbridge
![Image](http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8329/8370363176_df27c9fdb8_n.jpg)
Re: Manual Point Operation. HELP
I've Used bits of rail, solder the pin to go through the point. Couple of U tacks to hold it. Easy and cheep
this should be a gif but if it doesn't work... link
http://www.mumbles274.co.uk/009/pointmech.gif
this should be a gif but if it doesn't work... link
http://www.mumbles274.co.uk/009/pointmech.gif
Re: Manual Point Operation. HELP
Old bicycle spokes are easy to get hold off. I have many old wheels. Either use them as they are or take a hammer to flatten an end and it widens while being flattened. A hole can then be drilled through to make it useful.
A bicycle spoke threading tool can also be purchased (These are not cheap and can't be used with stainless steel spokes... Only ordinary spokes) where one can thread spokes. I've made decent axles by this method using the thread for holding the wheels on.
A bicycle spoke threading tool can also be purchased (These are not cheap and can't be used with stainless steel spokes... Only ordinary spokes) where one can thread spokes. I've made decent axles by this method using the thread for holding the wheels on.
Modelling On A Budget ---》 https://www.newrailwaymodellers.co.uk/F ... 22&t=52212
Re: Manual Point Operation. HELP
I use rail as well, though laid in a groove in the baseboard surface and connected to a DPDT slider switch at the baseboard edge to switch the frog polarity. I don't like bits that stick out from the baseboard edge on portable layouts, it's too easy to damage things...mumbles wrote:I've Used bits of rail, solder the pin to go through the point. Couple of U tacks to hold it. Easy and cheep