Glentruss Halt - A '00' DCC layout ?

[Dad-1]

Gawd,
Almost a paintbrush stroke by paintbrush stroke photo record - but I get bored with no action !!
Anyway in line with Slackbladders comment I have dirtied the cattle dock floor, more to come nearer the end. Would you believe how long it took me to make those steps down to that ground frame ? ...... almost a complete afternoon, wasted a few strips of plasticard at the same time !!
One of my 2 new cattle wagons alongside.



Geoff T.

[slackbladder]

lol, Hi Geoff and WOW ehhhh the first wee cur I think for the owld biddy and the cattle pen floor is simply spot on I reckon.

My daft son gave all the Warhammer figures away to his mate (I know I mistakenly said Warcraft) I think this is the set that he had.. I made a better job of them than this pic, I even used to pick out the individual studs in the wrist bands and belts. Oh and I would give them yellow and green and sometimes red teeth.



Somehow I cant see that in the cab of an A4... ......I think I have seen one driving our local busses mind you.

More railway pics please from you.. I love em.

slacking

[Dad-1]

Slackers,

I recognise that guy, he used to drive lorries on the M1 & A1, certain he's the one that nearly 'had' me just outside Newcastle-upon-Tyne. Just as well I could do 90 and escape - thought lorries were limited to 56 .... not the 70 he was doing !!!

Geoff T.

[tinman]

Great job on the cattle dock floor, that makes a huge difference, looks really realistic

[Dad-1]

A Cattle Dock without gates ....... no ..... so I've made 4 very small gates.
I did try fixing hinges to one - yes I wanted all gates to open and close, although test 1 has failed.
I cut some 2 mm or so wide strips from some polythene bag and superglued to the gate and gate post. It did work for a short while, but the glue line seemed to weaken the plastic and a hinge failed. Cut the other off and now will be looking for something stronger as at least the basic idea is realistic.



I also have had trouble where 1 gate came out oversize and wouldn't fit the gap. It seems though that I can use 1 wide & 1 narrow for access to the wagons, but as 1 mm makes one heck of a difference I won't know for certain until they're all hinged and fitted to their respective gate posts.

Geoff T

[slackbladder]

Hi Geoff, I thought something like this for your hinges but painted black or rusty brownish, Trouble is these are 1" scale and Us.

http://www.minishop.com/motts/shopexd.asp?id=59279

Or here... http://www.alwayshobbies.com/Store/Craf ... Collection

Or here... http://www.phoenixmodeldevelopments.com ... Range.html

But maybe I can sow some seeds for idea's thats all.

Everything is looking ever so ever so..NICE

sb

[Dad-1]

H Slackers,

Interesting, but all a bit too large for me.

Not been getting anything done recently as I've been waiting for my electrical bits to arrive - then had the phone line fail and spent two days sorting that out. The phone - Oh corrosion in the BT master box, as I'm now on Sky BT didn't want to know, and Sky can't deal with problems like that !! So I've had to learn all about phone wiring and replace the live master box. This was made more difficult by there being a BT installed extension from where the wires came into the building to this master box - with different coloured wires ...... then another set of (standard) colours for the internal extensions wires and I'm wired for two lines using a 6 wire internal feed !!! It all seems to work and my broadband is much faster.

Anyway the light in my Lamp Hut is working although not fully fixed yet. I'm wondering if the resistor is reducing the light too much, but this would have been lit by oil lamps so needs to be subtle. Is it too subtle ??





Now that's functioning I can finish the scenic area around the hut - the matchstick locating ridges around the hut are there for both secure location and reducing any light bleed under the building - I always think that spoils anything that's been lit.

Geoff T.

[slackbladder]

The light looks absolutely "spot on" to me Geoff. Again about the hinges, unless you have it sorted how about if you have any or can acquire some very very thin brown leather or similar sort of make believe plastic type leather. Maybe something from an old doll or a boys combat figure toy sort of thing. I think I can recall in my dim and distant past some farmers used leather strips for that very same application (gate hinges) Hope you dont mind me throwing idea's around like this.

Also a loco smoker in the hut chimney....eh?..eh?...naaaaaaaarrrrrrr too much £ ..maybe

Just carry on making me insanely jealous

cheers slackers

[trainsandco]

Also a loco smoker in the hut chimney....eh?..eh?...naaaaaaaarrrrrrr too much £ ..maybe

it could be realistic (price wise) as you can get a 'non-puffing' one from 1st class trains for I think £7

Just carry on making me insanely jealous

I'm kinda in on this one.........carry on the good work but try not to make it too good........it makes me want to curl up in a hole and die........I cant quite get that good of a standard

anyhoo carry on making the awesome mini railway......(ever thought of exibiting it when its finished?)

T&C

[Dad-1]

Hi ,
You can't always win - there are times when a change of plan is needed. I have decided after several attempts to make hinges about 1.5 mm x 2 mm that it's simply not practical. Cyno glue seems to have a reaction on polythene bag plastic - it sticks the hinge to post and gate, but then when moved back and forth a few times it fails. I can only assume there is too little material between the glue points, probably less that 0.5 mm, for flexing resulting in splitting. I don't like admiting defeat, but have now stuck all but the large gate permanently closed. I'm still thinking about getting 1 working !!!!
This shot shows the lamp fitting from inside the lamp hut.



And thanks for the support, but remember there is no real reason why it can't be done by anyone - having a go (even if it fails sometimes) is the secret.

Geoff T.

[slackbladder]

Thats true Geoff..... but you do inspire.. Is that 20p mine?

Well at least the beasts cant escape now.

slacker

[Dad-1]

Here we go again,

Small, hardly the word for it. Somehow I have to solder two leads onto this 3 and a bit mm long LED ? Now that's eye straining enough, but I need to know the Anode & Cathode. The instructions give details with regard to the dark side, only there isn't one !! Just a green T marking more or less in the middle, so I feel it's time to ask Flashbang for help. I often wonder how Flashbang keeps answering the same stupid questions Month in Month out !!! That man deserves a medal.



Geoff T.

[Dad-1]

Things have become rather slow ....
The light now works and figure painting begins



It's like waiting for paint to dry !!!

Geoff T.

[slackbladder]

Brilliant, its like we used to say in the building trade "if you stand around for a few minutes you’ll get painted"

I was beginning to get withdrawl symptoms waiting for the next pic Geoff

sb

[Dad-1]

Hi Slackers,

Yep I'm on a go slow ..... truly waiting for paint to dry !!

Each of these Edwardian figures from Langley Models require 5 - 8 different colours, each needs to be left a day to fully dry before handling and adding the next colour. While many modellers may not have the number of paints and brushes I have, this is not necessary, but represent what's still useable after 35 years aircraft modelling. For example that ladies greeny dress is a specialist aircraft colour - Soviet Interior green.
How so many colours ? Face; trousers; jackets; hair and/or 'tash; boots and/or shoes; shirt; dress; parasol; walking cane; and hands need touching up with flesh last of all, that is unless you decide the characters would be wearing gloves !!



I may not be on so often - In particular if "She" finds out that I've the City of Truro coming as well as the Flying Dutchman set ...... If I never appear again call in the murder squad !!!

Geoff T.