Hi All, I have got my model railway out of the loft and looking to recreate my childhood layout (well not the same layout)
I have put some of my old hornby track down to start to play around and learn all the new stuff like lighting, point motors and modding my old units and and rolling stock with lighting the layout will be analogue before I start for real.
"Very Novice at electronics"
I have put a feed at the bottom right but think I need one at the top left to feed the sidings on the top right.
My other question is for lighting in the cabs of the units (non DCC) would leds work on 12v DC would very in light as the front lights on my old HST?
Any advice would be great.
Cheers
Marcus
Slow return.
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Slow return.
Old Skool OO 70s - 80s
- Ironduke
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Re: Slow return.
I'd put one top middle between the two points.marcusd666 wrote:I have put a feed at the bottom right but think I need one at the top left to feed the sidings on the top right.
Yes, if you use a LED with a resistor in series the brightness will vary in relation to the voltage applied. Not many ways to avoid this with DC.marcusd666 wrote:My other question is for lighting in the cabs of the units (non DCC) would leds work on 12v DC would very in light as the front lights on my old HST?
Regards
Rob
Rob
Re: Slow return.
You can minimise the change in brightness by using a current-limiting device such as an NSI50010 LED driver instead of a resistor. That'll limit the current to 10mA so long as the voltage is above the LED's forward voltage (i.e. at most running speeds), but won't prevent the LED from extinguishing altogether when the voltage approaches zero. Other versions are NSI50020 for 20mA and ...30 for 30mA. These devices are surface-mounted, but with a little care it's possible to solder wires directly onto their solder pads, put a bit of heat-shrink tubing on them, and then install them the same way you would a conventional wire-ended resistor.Yes, if you use a LED with a resistor in series the brightness will vary in relation to the voltage applied. Not many ways to avoid this with DC.
Re: Slow return.
Hi
Best rule to follow when wiring track feeds is to always allow the track feeds power to flow into the single end of a point and be switched by that point. So in your plan a feed top left and a second lower right will suffice as minimum. In doing this two sidings will always be powered when the controller is turned On. i.e. the tracks the points are set towards.
I personally would add a pair of Insulated Rail Joiners (Nylon Fishplates) in place of the metal joiners on the top left point in the turnout direction only (Shown by an orange line in the picture I've modified). IRJs in OO are from Peco SL-11 or Hornby R920. Both fit Hornby or Peco Setrack.
In doing so when the top left point is set to the turnout direction the two sidings to the right are both electrically dead and locos can be stabled in both while shunting or other operations continue on the lower sidings. Note; one of these three fed form the lower right will always be live
The next step would be to add more IRJs towards the buffer stops but at least a full locos lengths back plus about 50mm in each red feed rail and take each new rail feed to the rails between the IRJ and buffer stop via a simple On/Off switch, which would then allow a loco to be stabled in each siding when the switch for that siding is Off. To get the best operational potential seven IRJs, switches and feeds beyond the IRJs would be needed. The rough position of the IRJs is shown below by the light Blue lines. (I've not shown the additional switched feeds)
Best rule to follow when wiring track feeds is to always allow the track feeds power to flow into the single end of a point and be switched by that point. So in your plan a feed top left and a second lower right will suffice as minimum. In doing this two sidings will always be powered when the controller is turned On. i.e. the tracks the points are set towards.
I personally would add a pair of Insulated Rail Joiners (Nylon Fishplates) in place of the metal joiners on the top left point in the turnout direction only (Shown by an orange line in the picture I've modified). IRJs in OO are from Peco SL-11 or Hornby R920. Both fit Hornby or Peco Setrack.
In doing so when the top left point is set to the turnout direction the two sidings to the right are both electrically dead and locos can be stabled in both while shunting or other operations continue on the lower sidings. Note; one of these three fed form the lower right will always be live
The next step would be to add more IRJs towards the buffer stops but at least a full locos lengths back plus about 50mm in each red feed rail and take each new rail feed to the rails between the IRJ and buffer stop via a simple On/Off switch, which would then allow a loco to be stabled in each siding when the switch for that siding is Off. To get the best operational potential seven IRJs, switches and feeds beyond the IRJs would be needed. The rough position of the IRJs is shown below by the light Blue lines. (I've not shown the additional switched feeds)
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Broken? It was working correctly when I left it.
Broken? It was working correctly when I left it.
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Re: Slow return.
@Flashbang
Thanks for the reply and the advice
Was not sure about the Insulated Rail Joiners on the points I have a dual track controller so would the feed come from the controller ?
I was thinking about the IRJ on the sidings left and right that was going to be the next step to store units.
Cheers
Marcus
Thanks for the reply and the advice
Was not sure about the Insulated Rail Joiners on the points I have a dual track controller so would the feed come from the controller ?
I was thinking about the IRJ on the sidings left and right that was going to be the next step to store units.
Cheers
Marcus
Old Skool OO 70s - 80s
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Re: Slow return.
@Ironduke & @abenn
Thanks for the reply I am not worried about the leds being constant as I know it will never be as good as a DCC system its would just be a quick way to add lighting to the cabs.
Cheers
Marcus
Thanks for the reply I am not worried about the leds being constant as I know it will never be as good as a DCC system its would just be a quick way to add lighting to the cabs.
Cheers
Marcus
Old Skool OO 70s - 80s
Re: Slow return.
Hi Marcus.marcusd666 wrote:@Flashbang
Thanks for the reply and the advice
Was not sure about the Insulated Rail Joiners on the points I have a dual track controller so would the feed come from the controller ?
I was thinking about the IRJ on the sidings left and right that was going to be the next step to store units.
Cheers
Marcus
I initially assumed you were only using one DC controller for the whole layout. You can of course just use one Controller of a dual controller if desired. Simply connect the two Red triangles together to one "TRACK" output terminal and then do the same with the two Black triangle feed connections to the other same controllers "TRACK" connection. e.g. On the rear of a dual controller there should be four terminals - Track/Controller 1 is a pair while Track/Controller 2 is another separate pair. Use just one pair for a single controller operation.
If you want to use both DC controllers to operate the layout, then the pair of IRJs on the turn out rails of the upper left point are needed to provide the electrical separation between each controller and its tracks feed by each controller. i.e. Controller 1 would feed the upper left rail connections while Controller 2 would feed the lower right connections. Passing a loco between the two will involve setting both controllers to the same direction of travel and roughly the same speed on the speed knob. Once the loco has fully passed from one to the other turn off the previous controller.
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Broken? It was working correctly when I left it.
Broken? It was working correctly when I left it.
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Re: Slow return.
@Flashbang
Sorry forgot to mention that I had a Gaugemaster D I have had a quick look at your website and it should be a big help in under standing wiring up the layout as the last time I did one I was about 10 LOL and things have moved on a lot.
Cheers
Marcus
Sorry forgot to mention that I had a Gaugemaster D I have had a quick look at your website and it should be a big help in under standing wiring up the layout as the last time I did one I was about 10 LOL and things have moved on a lot.
Cheers
Marcus
Old Skool OO 70s - 80s