Bamboozled

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End2end
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Re: Bamboozled

Postby End2end » Mon Apr 27, 2015 10:08 pm

UrbanHermit wrote:End2end, thank you. I tried your "tin everything first / blob of solder on the iron technique," and it worked a treat. Up until now, when soldering I've always wished I'd been blessed with an extra hand, but now I just need the two I've got: one hand for the work, one hand for the iron. So much easier.

Always a pleasure to share a working knowledge :D
After the legislated move to lead free solder (2007?), which I had to change to for work purposes, I found using this technique also works for lead free solder, rather than waiting for it to get hot, on the iron it stays hot.

I will add here that things like brass loco kits maybe able to take more heat and therefore using the solder off the roll maybe more advantagous to run down seams etc, but I've never built one and will leave that to the experts to comment on, including the use of lead free solder on such kits.
Thanks
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Tankie
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Re: Bamboozled

Postby Tankie » Thu May 14, 2015 11:01 pm

Tricky Dicky wrote:. On low voltage circuits like this strip the end of the wire, twist the strands together, fold back on the insulation and push the end into the screw terminal and tighten the screw. This method provides an element of strain relief to the cable and reduces the chances of breakages.Richard


Great tip, much thanks

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Bufferstop
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Re: Bamboozled

Postby Bufferstop » Thu May 14, 2015 11:16 pm

Only use that technique on 12v low current circuits. Getting the insulation under the screw on mains circuits carrying any amount of current will lead to at least a very nasty smell, destroyed insulation, melted connector blocks then a big bang and the lights going out. I walked into the reception, could smell it from there (something like burned cabbage), said hello, proceeded down the open plan office towards the source of the smell, put down my toolbox, stepped up to the offending machine just as the big bang happened. So with the aid of my inspection torch I took out the fuses, said "give us a call when you get the power back on" and departed. Fortunately I was off on a weeks holiday the next day. High currents and squeezed insulation don't mix well.
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Steve1414
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Re: Bamboozled

Postby Steve1414 » Thu May 28, 2015 9:23 pm

Why not solder the proper type of ferrules on the end of the wire then the screw will not damage the wire when tightening into block connectors. They only cost pence so will not break the bank and will prevent many a wasted hour tryng to find a fault.

Tricky Dicky
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Re: Bamboozled

Postby Tricky Dicky » Sat May 30, 2015 8:14 am

I totally agree with you Bufferstop, I did offer that advice by stating it should should only be used with low voltage circuits at the start. It was perhaps remiss of me not to mention that it should not be done where high voltage/currents are involved for the reasons you pointed out. A similar situation used to occur in the old days when it was not common practice to provide moulded plugs on mains appliances. Very often the ends of the mains cord would have tinned wires, this being done for the convenience of the manufacturer when testing. Most manufacturers advised cutting off these tinned ends and trimming the wires to appropriate lengths before attaching the plug. Inevitably some consumers did not, the tinned ends making it easy to insert the wire ends into their respective terminals. Over time this practice resulted in heating effects at the terminals and plugs getting hot.

Steve, ferrules are a good idea as long as the wire is not subject to movement. If movement is present then the wire will eventually snap at the point the insulation ends and the ferrule starts. Those PP3 battery connectors on flying leads were the bane of my life, I must have re-soldered hundreds of those on cheap PCBs where the ends have simply been soldered to the PCB without any strain relief and it is always the same place where the wire eventually snaps.

Richard


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