Lead-Free Solder Experiences

[Ex-Pat]

What I have gleaned from various sources is that traditional 60% tin & 40% Lead solder is best for wiring etc. I have also seen reports that lead-free solder "fights" you all the way.

Relying on these opinions I've had a frustrating day trying to track down traditional electrical solder; almost everywhere in Newry and Dundalk simply don't stock it any more. (I did however manage to find some in the end, thank goodness.)

Need I have been concerned? Do you successfully use lead-free solder for wiring?

[Flashbang]

Hi
Fortunately I still have a couple of rolls of lead contents multicore solder for electrical work.
Lead free requires a high temperature soldering bit to work well.
There are still supplies of lead content rosen cored solder available - its only H & S in the work place that's allowed lead free to gain more ground. For home/domestic use you're still ok to use lead content solder - but always wash your hands well after any lead content soldering.

If you want to use a really good solder (at a price!) these two are really good solders.....
Solder 1 link
Solder 2 link

[locoworks]

where did you get the leaded stuff from?? lead free stuff is rubbish compared to proper stuff. i have some lead stuff about but i am almost out, using the lead free stuff is a pain, it doesn't run aswell and i just don't like it, ok for household plumbing with that savage flux that is used, but not so good for wiring.

[Ex-Pat]

Flashbang:

Thanks - I noticed from one of your posts a long time ago that you still had stock of leaded solder. Does this mean you haven't yet tried lead-free? If you have then I would welcome your opinion please as to how it compares with leaded solder from the point of view of workability and satisfaction. (The Australian Solder certainly impresses and I'll bear it in mind for the future thanks.)

Locoworks:

You obviously bear out the general non-model railway adverse opinions I've seen. I saw Halfords and thought "no, they won't", but they did! They had Draper Tools Stock No. 44040/ Part Number SW2A 1.2mm 100g Flux Cored 60% Tin 40% Lead for £4.29. I quickly relieved them of their last 2 rolls!

[Flashbang]

Flashbang:
Thanks - I noticed from one of your posts a long time ago that you still had stock of leaded solder. Does this mean you haven't yet tried lead-free? If you have then I would welcome your opinion please as to how it compares with leaded solder from the point of view of workability and satisfaction. (The Australian Solder certainly impresses and I'll bear it in mind for the future thanks.)
<Snip>

Hi
No, thankfully I haven't had to resort to using it so far, as I have plenty of lead content solder.
But all those I know and other advice say its fine if you can increase the temperature of your soldering irons bit. But its not recommended to try adding lead free onto a older soldered joint where lead content solder has been used as its not keen on mixing. But the other way around seems ok which I have done where repairs are needed on new items.

[Bufferstop]

My old faithful iron just cannot cope with the lead free stuff, so on a hunch I bought a new cheapo one from B&Q, works ok. Obviously manufacturers have upped the working temperature of the irons. I think it does mean that anyone doing white metal work is going to have to use a temperature adjustable model in the future.

[Ex-Pat]

Thanks Bufferstop - you offer crumbs of comfort even at the cost of a new iron!

Interesting point about white metal work, although I undestand you can effectively make your own with a dimmer switch?

[knickam]

RS Components supply various solders that contain lead.

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/solders/6195615/

[DJH584]

Although a tad expensive, DCC Concepts Sapphire 179 solder with added silver is great for electrical work.
They also do a Sapphire 145. The numbers for each relate to the melting point.
The products make a great alternative to that lead free rubbish.
Both are normally available from Bromsgrove Models.

Regards

David

[steviesparx]

Thanks Bufferstop - you offer crumbs of comfort even at the cost of a new iron!

Interesting point about white metal work, although I undestand you can effectively make your own with a dimmer switch?

That's not really a solution as the thermostat on cheap irons is usually a mechanical one built into the iron - you can sometimes hear the 'click' as it trips in/out....
More expensive irons have variable electronic measurement, usually controlled from a solder 'station' - the control box gubbins....

[bainin]

Plenty of solder choices -- including the good old tin-lead -- here:
Ireland:
[url]Radionics.ie[/url]
UK:
[url]uk.rs-online.com/[/url]
Google rs-online for other worldwide sites.
I find their service in Ireland to be excellent (usual disclaimer).
Mike

[f1_mw]

I work in electronics R&D, and lead free solder causes us no end of problems with dry joints. Plus we go through about twice as many iron tips due to the higher temperature needed for the stuff. Oh, and it stinks, so you need fume extraction!