Rolling road

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grahambc
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Rolling road

Postby grahambc » Mon Jan 10, 2011 1:58 pm

Good afternoon everybody... Just wondering if anyone has made a rolling road for loco's ? (similar to Hornby) if they have what parts would I need and is it easy to make..?
Here's hoping someone has done 1
Kindest regards
Graham

:|

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poliss
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Re: Rolling road

Postby poliss » Mon Jan 10, 2011 2:11 pm

How to make your own rolling road with parts list. http://www.hmrg.co.uk/techtops/rolling.htm

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grahambc
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Re: Rolling road

Postby grahambc » Mon Jan 10, 2011 2:21 pm

:? thanks for the reply, but where would i get these parts from and are they pre shaped etc ???

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poliss
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Re: Rolling road

Postby poliss » Mon Jan 10, 2011 2:37 pm

It's a DIY project. You have to do all the shaping and cutting yourself. You should be able to get the aluminium angle and plywood from your local DIY store. They found the bearings by looking in the Yellow Pages.

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Bufferstop
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Re: Rolling road

Postby Bufferstop » Mon Jan 10, 2011 5:36 pm

Two things come to me about that design,
1) The bearings would probably need to be smaller and have a smaller radius to their gauge edge if you were scaling it down to 00. Might be harder to find.
2) It would be better to modify the design so that one set of rollers could be moved to cater for different wheelbases. If the roller supports are held to gauge by the long sides then this might be done by slots for the fixing screws.
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locoworks
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Re: Rolling road

Postby locoworks » Mon Jan 10, 2011 7:50 pm

by the time you have sourced the bearings and screws and made suitable spacers out of egg boxes, toilet roll inners and sticky back plastic you might as well BUY a rolling road and know you are getting something that works. that one that comes with different spacers for N, 12mm and OO would be my choice, but there are others out there. bachrus being one, but the DCC concepts one is the one i'd get.

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poliss
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Re: Rolling road

Postby poliss » Mon Jan 10, 2011 8:37 pm

You must be rich locoworks. I couldn't afford one.

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raistlin295
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Re: Rolling road

Postby raistlin295 » Mon Jan 10, 2011 8:51 pm

locoworks wrote:by the time you have sourced the bearings and screws and made suitable spacers out of egg boxes, toilet roll inners and sticky back plastic you might as well BUY a rolling road and know you are getting something that works. that one that comes with different spacers for N, 12mm and OO would be my choice, but there are others out there. bachrus being one, but the DCC concepts one is the one i'd get.



I too invested in the DCC concepts rolling road kit.

My layout, "Finsbury Road", has a maximum end to end run of 11ft (OO) so impossible to run in new locomotives without the rollers.

Plus, I don't have the skills to make my own ;)
Paul

Finsbury Road My Layout

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Bufferstop
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Re: Rolling road

Postby Bufferstop » Mon Jan 10, 2011 11:28 pm

I guess it depends a lot on just how many locos you need to service and how often you have one that needs running in. You would struggle to build one without either a decent tool kit including at least a small pillar drill, and a fair bit of practice at the metal bashing.
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locoworks
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Re: Rolling road

Postby locoworks » Tue Jan 11, 2011 9:36 am

poliss wrote:You must be rich locoworks. I couldn't afford one.


they aren't the cheapest item out there, but i think we all can afford an oval of track for running in purposes? even if you just set it up on the kitchen table while you run a loco in. there won't be many folks that 'need' a rolling road? if the poster only wants one for 0-4-0 and 0-6-0 loco's then you may save a few quid as you are basically wanting half of a commercial set, and getting the bearings etc may be worth the effort. but bearings aren't cheap, and it really needs to be an accurate build. i think those with the tools and kit to actually build one well will be the same people that would spend 60 quid cos they realise the pitfalls and effort involved is not worth the potential grief. i built a rolling road for my 5 inch gauge 0-4-0 out of threaded bar, lengths of dexion, and lots of nuts and washers. PIA. and with live steam the inertia of the loco helps smooth the running. on a rolling road with a lot less inertia ( just what is in the flywheel effect of the wheels ) any poor setup in valve timing and cut offs makes for a jolty movement, a good way of seeing how well it is set up that may not show up well on the track

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RAF96
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Re: Rolling road

Postby RAF96 » Tue Jan 11, 2011 2:07 pm

Try these guys for metric or imperial miniature bearings.
http://www.smbbearings.com/SMBcatalogue.htm
Rob
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beeman
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Re: Rolling road

Postby beeman » Sat Jan 29, 2011 9:09 pm

[attachment=0]layout 047.jpg[/attachment


]I have been contemplating making a rolling road, so thought I would post my ideas for thought :) .I agree bought models are expensive. :evil: After having a look at the site mentioned earlier in this post [HMRG] decided to have a go. In the Dwg. the Green outline is of hard wood, or could be aluminium channel inverted, which I will use having some in my bits and pieces. The crucial item determining sizes is the aluminium z angle, orange outline.Fortunately I have some , a remnant from a greenhouse. This should be easily obtained from scrap yard or metal suppliers, of a suitable size. If using a wood base, it must be SQUARE and cut/planed to width to take the bearing thickness of 6mm + the aluminium to give the 16mm inside the bearings. This may depend on whether the wheels are the older Hornby models and depending on the actual wheel width. I have not attempted to dimension the Dwg., as it will be down to what is obtained. :?: The centre support can be fixed to the base permanently, the outers having slots to adjust for varying wheelbases. I intend to drill the holes for the bearings in the z angle to 6 mm, but fixing with a 4 mm bolt for setting/adjusting.same as bearing I.D . The difference of the 4mm bolt and 6mm hole should allow for adjustment when initially setting up, and hopefully need doing the once.The M4 washers being used either side of the bearings. If a wood base is used then wood screws can be used to fix the z angle, if ally channel then nut/bolt or if 'Tap & die set' available, 'tapped' . The previous posts seem to suggest procurement of the bearings may be problematic/expensive . Suitable bearings are available from 'Technobots' at respectable cost. http://www.technobotsonline.com/bearing ... ngs.html#1:) I hope the Dwg is sufficiently explanatory to any member deciding to attempt, and imagine, about as simple as one could produce, at a cost of around £14.00 :roll: Beeman.
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locoworks
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Re: Rolling road

Postby locoworks » Sat Jan 29, 2011 9:29 pm

nothing wrong with the plan in principle, but the hole drilling for the bearings themselves to mounted on will need to be spot height wise, and also exactly the same distance apart on each seperate mounting. if they are closer together or further apart it will affect the height of the wheel sat between them. as most RTR OO loco's don't have compensation or springing you may end up with only 1 wheel touching bearings on one side if the bearings below it are closer together. i'm sticking with the 'buy' recomendation for technical reasons.


edit; i'm not sussing why you have 6mm holes, and 4mm nuts and washers?? have you got some different diameter shanked bolts in mind to mount the bearings on? unless the 6 refers to the bearing width and not the inner hole diameter???

beeman
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Re: Rolling road

Postby beeman » Sat Jan 29, 2011 10:51 pm

I thought the text would be sufficiently explanatory. The hole centres on each support obviously have to be drilled at the same height above a common datum point . The centre support can have the holes drilled 4mm. the outers at 6mm would allow a loco to be positioned on the centre rollers and the outer sets adjusted on the 6mm holes. :D . The extra diameter giving leeway for alignment and setting up along with using a straight edge.. As stated it would be hoped that only once may suffice, once the bolts are nipped up. I will post pics when I have completed/tested mine. Beeman
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locoworks
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Re: Rolling road

Postby locoworks » Sun Jan 30, 2011 9:38 am

beeman wrote:I thought the text would be sufficiently explanatory. The hole centres on each support obviously have to be drilled at the same height above a common datum point . The centre support can have the holes drilled 4mm. the outers at 6mm would allow a loco to be positioned on the centre rollers and the outer sets adjusted on the 6mm holes. :D . The extra diameter giving leeway for alignment and setting up along with using a straight edge.. As stated it would be hoped that only once may suffice, once the bolts are nipped up. I will post pics when I have completed/tested mine. Beeman


so everytime you wnat to run a different loco on it you have to spend ages setting it up?? it isn't just about getting the bearings to all finish at the same height above the base, the pairs of bearings all have to be the same distance apart on each individual upright. the wheels don't sit on top of the bearings exactly, they sit between 2 of them. having oversize holes and expecting to be able to tighten bolts through bearings in the correct place vertically and horizontally is, i'm fairly sure, going to be a generation game type task at best and probably nearer the lost cause end of the spectrum most of the time. IF the individual pillars were slightly sprung themselves vertically then maybe it would be a lot easier to use. i haven't tried this ( cos i would rather spend the money ), but if you made individual baseplates for each opposed pair of bearing holding uprights so that each individual axle had a seperate small baseplate and then glued some 6 or 10 mm soft foam to the undersides to give some 'suspension' to each one, the weight of the loco may?? and it is a may!, be enough to push the bearings down into the sponge till all the wheels touch pairs of bearings, but the foam would have to be soft as the loco's don't have that much mass, the more axles, the less weight per axle to compress the foam. maybe just 10mm wide strips of foam at the outer ends running with the rails, with a void in the middle would help to make it easier to compress too rather than one big sheet.


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