Peco electrofrog points

[matto21]

Hi all,

Looking for some advice please. I'm using electrofrog points for the first time and have some questions about installing them.

I've read all sorts and watched numerous videos online but am still a bit confused.

I don't feel confident enough in wiring up for frog polarity switching to be honest. Can I still link the stock and switch rail with wire for improved contact without having to do the polarity stuff too?

Thanks

Matt

[b308]

If you use the Peco point motor and associated switch it's very easy to wire up the frog polarity, it's only three wires!

[mahoganydog]

Matt,

If you choose Seep PM1 they have a built in switch. There are also ways of using R/C servos the mounting brackets often have the ability to fit microswitches for polarity switching.

It's nothing to be scared of. You can always fit a point to a scrap bit of ply to practice on.

Jim

[RFS]

Can I still link the stock and switch rail with wire for improved contact without having to do the polarity stuff too?

Quite simply, no. If you do not use a polarity switch, then the frog's polarity is switched by blade contact to the stock rail, hence linking these together will cause an instant short circuit.

I would advise fitting a polarity switch and doing the link that you suggest, not forgetting to cut the link wires underneath. This gives the most reliable performance.

Although the Seep point motor has a built-in switch that you can use for polarity, it's notoriously unreliable.

[matto21]

Thanks for the replies all. I've bought Gaugemaster PM10's to use. Are these compatible with the Peco switch?

I should also have said I'm using DC only.

Matt

[Bufferstop]

They seem to follow the Peco and Seep frame design so I think they are. As RFS says if you want to bond switch to stock rails then there are two links to cut to prevent a short circuit. If you are using DC and want siding isolation, still fit the IRC on the V rail, but put an extra wire from the switch (same terminal as the frog) to the siding. If you subsequently want to use DCC you move that wire from the switch common to the appropriate stock rail connection.

[matto21]

Thanks for the comments.

Am I better off swapping my Gaugemaster motors for Peco ones and then using the PM13 (I think) switches with them for simplicity do you think?

Matt

[RFS]

Being as you've already bought the PM10s then perhaps your best option is to use the Gaugemaster GM500s to switch the polarity. They are simply wired together with the motors. As they're DPDT it means you have a spare switch for signals, or alternatively one GM500 can be used for both points where these from a crossover that are switched together.

http://www.gaugemaster.com/item_details ... ster+GM500

[Mike Parkes]

Agree with use the GM500, PM13s IME are not very reliable. An alternative I have used is to use a very lightly sprung microswitch [I sourced them from Maplin (RIP) ] worked by the extended drive rod on a point motor to change the polarity.

[Suzie]

Avoid the PL13 switch with Peco point motors and use the PL15 instead which is very reliable.

[Peterm]

Just as a back up to what has been said. Forget the PM13. Unreliable. I ditched the lot and went for Tortoise slow motion motors with two switches included.