How to start kit building

[Jkelly]

Hi everyone, just looking for some advice (again!). Ive been making plastic kits for a few years now and I think its time to start moving onto metal... So, I don't really know the skills of soldering but I feel its important to learn it. I think starting off with a cheap metal wagon kit in 00 gauge would be a great place to start, but what kit should I get? Ive also been looking into the prospect of whitemetal kits. As DJH are so expensive and for the pros, I thought that Keyser might be a good spot to start. Apart from eBay, where can I get one? They seem very elusive! Also, what experiences do people have with these old kits? Im not looking for a fine scale super smooth loco, just something I can have fun with, and end up with a decent model. Thanks for the advice,
Jonathan

[Mountain]

Try a small cheap kit like a yardcrane or something like that first. Something that is not expensive. Brass or tinplate may be easier to learn. Whitemetal needs to have the correct temperatures as too high a heat and one will melt the material one is trying to solder. One also could do with different temperature solders for more awkward areas, and ideally, a temperature controlled soldering iron.
I've not tried white metal myself. Many people use superglue with whitemetal which does the job.

[Jim S-W]

Avoid Keyser kits as a start point. They can turn out well but they are an awful lot of work. For brass build a pair of functional bogies. Should only cost you about £7. Brassmasters or MJT would be ideal.

[b308]

Just to get whitemetal out of the way first, I've always used Superglue and had no issues, ordinary or Gel. You can solder them but you need a low melt (very low!) unless you want holes! Best to stick with glue is my advice.

With regard to Brass Kits (I assume you meant brass and not nickel silver) then I think your choice of a wagon would be better than a crane or similar as it's just a series of boxes with solid sides so will be easier to make. I use a 15w Antex soldering iron (and 18w would work just as well, if you are building O scale then 25w) with Low Melt Solder and liquid flux to make all my Brass kits in HOe and TTe. The key with brass soldering is making sure everything is clean and using the correct gear. You can use a cheapo poundland iron but don't hold your breath with the results. When I first started I was making a real mess and it wouldn't work, only when I started using low melt solder dis stuff go together ok. Virtually all my Czech stock in both scales are brass kits built over the past 5 years.

I'd suggest you read up online about it first and if possible get to an exhibition which has someone demonstrating soldering.

[Jim S-W]

Here’s an example of a Keyser kit.

Parts as supplied

Modified to look like what it’s supposed to be

Finished loco

[Dad-1]

I've also used superglue for white metal kits.

My Roxey Mouldings Minnie was driven off a board onto the kitchen floor
a metre or more down and the only damage was a snapped off buffer.
Proved to me glue was a sound alternative.

As Jim S-W suggests start working with soldered brass on something simple.
A wagon as good a starting point as any although I can't recommend one due
to my wagons all being made from plastic kits.

Geoff T.

[Mountain]

That's beautiful Jim.

[ikks]

Beautiful job Jim

Rgds........Mike

[Mountain]

How did you get on Jkelly? Did you manage to make a start?

[Jkelly]

Alas not, there has been so much else to do. I've been building numerous metcalfe kits-they're great fun. Funds are running low atm but still plan on kitbuilding in the future. Thanks for all the advice guys, and that is a beautiful loco!