Recommend Paper/Card Weights

Have any questions or tips and advice on how to build those bits that don't come ready made.
Disco21
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Recommend Paper/Card Weights

Postby Disco21 » Thu Nov 22, 2012 11:12 am

Hi

Can all you modellers recommend a decent weight paper and card to print kits?

We're just about to start out scenery/kit builds (yet to be decided on what we need - currently thinking church/terrace houses/engine sheds etc) but would like some recommendations on what resources to use.

Also, a decent cutting board and craft knife recommendation would be good as well.

We still have the plastic track mat down, however someone has suggested we remove this before we start on scenery etc, but it would mean taking up all the track and starting from scratch, which really don't wanna do - Any ideas?

craw607
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Re: Recommend Paper/Card Weights

Postby craw607 » Thu Nov 22, 2012 12:59 pm

I am not to sure of card thickness but 2mm should help stop the card/greyboard
from warping when sticking the printed sheet on.
Regarding the trackmat if you are not going to keep it could you not just cut round track.
John

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luckymucklebackit
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Re: Recommend Paper/Card Weights

Postby luckymucklebackit » Thu Nov 22, 2012 1:54 pm

I use Daler-Rowney mounting board, it is about 1.4mm thick and at around £3-4 for an A1 sheet is quite economic. For thinner applications I use Cereal Boxes.

Jim
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mikem64
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Re: Recommend Paper/Card Weights

Postby mikem64 » Thu Nov 22, 2012 4:48 pm

Nice to see another card fan in the fold (Pardon the pun there....LOL)

Card size can be a little tricky but for things like houses 300gsm (Cereal packet thickness) is fine, adding little triangle pieces to the insides of the corners help strengthen the model, a small piece of card from one apex to the other also helps stablise the structure.

These are all little tricks you'll pick up as you go. I've used 300gsm card for many of my kits, even used these on Engine sheds & good sheds. You can then beef up the model by going into 1mm & 2mm card stock, once again I have designed several kits for these too.

Smaller items then plain old printed paper weight of 80 - 120gsm is fine, vending machines, petrol pumps sizes.

If you want to buy card here are a few guides, 125 sheets A4 300gsm about £7.99 (That will build quite a few houses, signal boxes etc) 1mm card I normally buy from the shop called "The Range" can't remember the size but it's large & costs £1.99 per sheet. For 2mm card I use Grey card for the shop "Hobbycraft" & costs £1.49 per sheet (Once again it's quite large sheets)

A steel rule & plenty of those snap off craft blades are required along with a good cutting mat, A3 size if you have the room. This will always sound silly but watch your fingers when cutting with these craft knifes, you can cut quite deep into a finger even before you feel any pain. Therefore keep fingers well clear, always use a steel rule, always keep the cutting edge as low as possible, & on thick card stock (1mm & 2mm) let the knife do the cutting, never force the blade, so if it means running the knife over the line two, three or four times until it's cut, then that's what it takes.

Nearly forgot, always retract the blade before placing the craft knife down onto you work surface after each cut is complete, sorry if I've waffled or stated the obvious but safety can't be under estimated, stay safe & you'll have a happy modelling experience.

Yours Mr Old Head (AKA Mike :wink: )
Wordsworth Model Railway Free Downloadable Card Kits can be found at here
http://www.wordsworthmodelrailway.co.uk
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Disco21
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Re: Recommend Paper/Card Weights

Postby Disco21 » Sun Dec 02, 2012 7:45 pm

Do we basically print out the buildings using our inkjet printer, and stick to special board/sheets and cut that and then fold?

brit-in-bama
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Re: Recommend Paper/Card Weights

Postby brit-in-bama » Sun Dec 02, 2012 8:10 pm

Disco21

BASICALLY YES,
but each person has to work out the best way for them, for instance I print directly on to the thickest card that will go through my printer because laminating paper onto card is a no-hope situation in damp climates, over here in the states its called basic "card stock" dirt cheap and smooth finish, then I spray it with a mat sealer, then the ink doesnt run in the humid conditions I live in, it works for me, then I spray the sealer over the finished model just to make sure there are no areas that I have forgotten, and so far even after the humid summer we have had, and the Ac going out for two weeks, only minor warpage on one item and that was foam board on my viaduct, (I forgot to spray it), so there are many ways to skin a cat, and this works for me. I suggest taking a look here http://www.wordsworthmodelrailway.co.uk/ mikes models are awesome, simple yet effective, and also able to be customized to suit most peoples needs I put real windows ect in mine, try a small project that uses only one sheet first to perfect your technique, then as you get more confident you can judge your owns skills and try different things.

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luckymucklebackit
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Re: Recommend Paper/Card Weights

Postby luckymucklebackit » Sun Dec 02, 2012 9:46 pm

If you are doing a scratchbuild based on brick papers or other it is worthwhile thinking about taking a screen grab of the pdf files and manipulating the images to suit the final application, rather than cutting bis of paper and building it up. This is how I made most of my buildings.

JIm
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Bufferstop
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Re: Recommend Paper/Card Weights

Postby Bufferstop » Sun Dec 02, 2012 11:28 pm

Most of the kits assume you will print on to 80gsm printer paper then Pritt stick it onto suitable card. As above artists mounting board, or card recycled from packaging are suitable. If you can afford it A4 full face (or one label per sheet) printer labels mean you just cut, peel and stick, they also seem to have a slightly better surface. If you need heavier weights of card keep a look out for - the back sheets of writing pads, the stiff covers of lever arch files and filing boxes and covers from hard back notebooks. Tidy them up by removing any stuck on paper bits and squirrel them away for future use. It's worth looking at any discarded packaging to see if it could be used for construction materials. I noticed in one thread that the OP was using the centres of masking tape reels to support a raised section of trackwork. Another good source if you are doing something large are the display boards used in supermarkets. They are usually printed onto foam filled mounting board and are thrown out when a promotion ends. It can't hurt to ask and you'll probably get them for free.

[EDIT] One more tip, If you are sticking paper to large areas of card, sticking a blank sheet to the hidden face will help prevent the card from curling.

John W.
aka Bufferstop
Last edited by Bufferstop on Mon Dec 03, 2012 10:09 am, edited 1 time in total.
Growing old, can't avoid it. Growing up, forget it!
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luckymucklebackit
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Re: Recommend Paper/Card Weights

Postby luckymucklebackit » Mon Dec 03, 2012 8:52 am

As above watch out for unusual sources of building materials, we were throwing out a bed and I discovered that the underside of the base was covered in a very heavy duty pasteboard (about 4mm thick). This was duly removed and cut into manageable sheets, I still have a stock of this and have found it useful for several projects!

Jim
This Signature Left Intentionally Blank, but since I have written this and I intended to do it, this Signature is intentionally not blank. Paradox or What?
My layout - Gateside and Northbridge
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Disco21
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Re: Recommend Paper/Card Weights

Postby Disco21 » Mon Dec 10, 2012 9:52 pm

Hey peeps

Im off to Hobbycraft tomorrow to pick up some stuff

We shall we printing onto 100gsm bright white paper initially, then looking to stick this down onto card/board before using craft knife and steel rule to trim (dads job!)

What would you recommend I get in the way of card. Its initially to do 5 med-large buildings etc, but I'll leave it upto the experts to recommend.

Cheers

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Bufferstop
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Re: Recommend Paper/Card Weights

Postby Bufferstop » Mon Dec 10, 2012 11:07 pm

You can either buy artists mounting board 1.5mm(ish) thick, in A2 and A1 sizes from a craft shop, or if there's a picture framers near you ask if they have off cuts. They cut a hole in big sheets to fit the size of the picture, they may then trim up the bit they cut out and use it for a smaller picture, but more likely they bin it.
John W
aka Bufferstop
Growing old, can't avoid it. Growing up, forget it!
My Layout, My Workbench Blog and My Opinions


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