MTK KITS

[theunborn]

Hi im building a couple of class 22 loco's from the old mtk kits which dont go togeather very well they seem to need a lot of filling which brings me to i was wondering if car body repair filler would be ok to use on these metal kits i always used millput which i dont really like i was thinking may be isopen filler would be better?

thanxs

[Essex2Visuvesi]

try revel plasto
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Revell-39607-Pl ... B0002HZ3N0

[theunborn]

Hi thanxs for the reply ive seen this product in my local model shop but never tried it so will give it a go.

thanxs

[Dad-1]

I have used two mix car filler, but only on major build-up areas on a plastic scale model aircraft kit. It worked O.K and shows no sign of breaking away from the base plastic after 3 years of loft temperature variations 2C - 130C. I had to extend the nose of a model by around 8 mm and reshape.
In places of restricted access it could be a problem to clean up and blend in.

Geoff T.

[b308]

I've used it as well, and Milliput which also works ok... Those MTK kits have been around for donkey's years now and weren't that brilliant when it came to fit when they first came out! I remember making up a Peak back in the 70s and having to use filler...

[stuartp]

Ah, MTK. The only kits on which I've ever had to resort to using woodworking tools.

Personally I'd use the two-part car body epoxy fillers on these rather than hobby fillers. The car stuff is designed to bond to metal (the sheet metal parts of MTK kits are usually aluminium) and it's generally tougher and has a bit more 'oomphh' abou it. The hobby fillers will five you a much smoother surface but they're usually toluene (solvent) based which is great if you want them to bond to plastic but pretty hopeless at sticking to anything which toluene doesn't dissolve.

[Essex2Visuvesi]

Ah, MTK. The only kits on which I've ever had to resort to using woodworking tools.

Personally I'd use the two-part car body epoxy fillers on these rather than hobby fillers. The car stuff is designed to bond to metal (the sheet metal parts of MTK kits are usually aluminium) and it's generally tougher and has a bit more 'oomphh' abou it. The hobby fillers will five you a much smoother surface but they're usually toluene (solvent) based which is great if you want them to bond to plastic but pretty hopeless at sticking to anything which toluene doesn't dissolve.

I have used the revell plasto with great success on ply and stripwood when building my model boats

[stuartp]

I have used the revell plasto with great success on ply and stripwood when building my model boats

That's because it will key to the (comparatively) rough surface of the wood so the difference between solvent based and epoxy based doesn't really matter. I should perhaps have stated that I was referring to it not sticking to non-porous surfaces such as whitemetal and aluminium.

My MTK 101 did finish up with stripwood and balsa in it though !

[Essex2Visuvesi]

Fair enough... not tried it on metal yet

[theunborn]

Ah, MTK. The only kits on which I've ever had to resort to using woodworking tools.

Personally I'd use the two-part car body epoxy fillers on these rather than hobby fillers. The car stuff is designed to bond to metal (the sheet metal parts of MTK kits are usually aluminium) and it's generally tougher and has a bit more 'oomphh' abou it. The hobby fillers will five you a much smoother surface but they're usually toluene (solvent) based which is great if you want them to bond to plastic but pretty hopeless at sticking to anything which toluene doesn't dissolve.

Hi woodworking tools ive used power tools the loco kits ive got are all whitemetal they weigh a ton and do need a lot of filler round the front end ive got some 2 part body filler will give it a try on one of the loco's thanxs for the info.

cheers

[CaptainElectra]

I've built a few MTK kits in times gone by and would recommend using two-part car filler to help bond the ends to the aluminium shell. Milliput is also good for any finer filling, such as reshaping the ends.

My favourite was the Mk3 DVT, where several days were spent with filler totally re-working the end into something that vaguely resembled the prototype. I've also got a Class 321 and 165 somewhere...

[SirMeliot]

Milliput is also good for any finer filling, such as reshaping the ends.

Sturdy stuff Milliput. I fixed a cast metal porch lamp with it about three years ago and it's still good as new.

[solario]

Just to slightly hijack this thread, I mixed up some milliput a few months back and was surprised when it was still soft three weeks later.

It did eventually go off, but why so slow? It's not that old......

[Bufferstop]

I've found mixing Milliput very variable, using as far as I could just the same amounts each time some would be showing signs of hardening in less than an hour another batch would still be soft days later. When it does go hard it is strong but needs a good key to hold really firm to plastic.

[jack richards]

Anyone that attempts MTK deserves a medal.

If you can get a half decent result you have done well. The castings are awful.

The only person who ever succeeded was Paul Wade with his Southern Units on Tonbridge West Yard.

Jack