Any tips for roofs with multiple parts?

Have any questions or tips and advice on how to build those bits that don't come ready made.
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alex3410
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Any tips for roofs with multiple parts?

Postby alex3410 » Thu Oct 04, 2018 8:37 am

Hey guys,
i am trying scratch building again (wish me luck :lol: )

Anyway i am trying to build something like this:
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and was wondering if there are any tips / hints that would make it easier to build the roof section - specifically the right angle bit with the two joining together? I attempted it last night but getting the slope of the second roof right so they joined up nicely didn't go to well :lol:

any help would be appreciated

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luckymucklebackit
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Re: Any tips for roofs with multiple parts?

Postby luckymucklebackit » Thu Oct 04, 2018 9:29 am

Hi Alex - this is where some old fashioned pencil and paper technical drawing skills come in handy. To do the roof I would draw the roof out to exact scale on paper, to to the intersection between the two roof sections you can do a projection to the flat surface using a ruler and a set of compasses (this is difficult to demonstrate without a drawing). There is a description of the principles here https://www.slideshare.net/kashyapshah11/development-of-surfaces-of-solids

Using this method you will get the actual section that you have to cut out of one roof section in order for the other to slot in, it actually is easier to do than to describe!

Jim
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flying scotsman123
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Re: Any tips for roofs with multiple parts?

Postby flying scotsman123 » Thu Oct 04, 2018 9:46 am

Alternatively, I draw the roof out in 3D in something like Google SketchUp, then use the "tape measure" and "protractor" to measure each 2D surface.
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Bufferstop
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Re: Any tips for roofs with multiple parts?

Postby Bufferstop » Thu Oct 04, 2018 10:34 am

It also helps to take in the detail of the real thing. Assuming this is a slated or tiled roof there will be a generous valley, usually lead or zinc lined, where the smaller roof joins the main one. The ones on our house are nearly a foot wide where they go under the tiles and at least four inches deep extending down to the gutters. On large buildings they can be considerably bigger. They have to be able to shift everything that drains off the roof. Paper or card painted grey then overlaid with "muck" should do the job. I've noticed that on some 1920/30s houses the slates are laid up to, usually red tile, channels which look rather like inverted ridge tiles, that were often a feature of theses roofs.
You still have to do the construction/calculation for the shape of the surfaces, but the valley gives you a little wiggle room when it comes to joining them together.
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