St. Blazey's Works and Depot

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End2end
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Re: St. Blazey's Works and Depot

Postby End2end » Thu Oct 05, 2017 1:09 am

I now have the longer verboard. I've tried cutting long lengths but it's a fatherless son to cut. So much so that I gave up without cutting one length.
I used a brand new stanley blade too. :shock:
Somtimes you've just got to give up and walk away......before you go metal and overcut so much that you lose a finger! :x
Who's idea was all this blooming coach lighting anyway?
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Re: St. Blazey's Works and Depot

Postby TimberSurf » Thu Oct 05, 2017 8:12 am

E2E
There are several ways to cut veroboard, non of them include a stanley blade!
The Paxolin material, like styrofoam can easily be "scored" between the tracks using a tip blade at right angles to the handle, these can be bought or readily made with a hacksaw blade if a metal grinder can be accessed. Veroboard and PCB's can be cut with a saw, a small bandsaw is ideal, or hacksaw or more appropriately a junior hacksaw makes light work of the job. In your case (needing to make a very long cut with very narrow offcut) there is a great danger the offcut will snap, as it has little strength on its own. The best method is therefore the alternative technique, which is to part cut the line, not in the non copper channel, but actually along a row of holes (the week part of the board), thus once halfway through or more, the board can be simply snapped off! This may be wasteful of one row but guarantees a easily defined edge and the half hole edge can be filed back to smooth afterwards for esthetics. {I might make a demo of how to make a hacksaw blade scorer if anyone is interested}
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Re: St. Blazey's Works and Depot

Postby End2end » Thu Oct 05, 2017 10:53 am

TimberSurf wrote:E2E There are several ways to cut veroboard, non of them include a stanley blade!

We can blame google for that bit of useless misinformation. :roll:
Although the webpage I read said to cut lines using the holes, I was just trying to be less wasteful but cutting inbetween the copper lines.
I'll try a small saw instead.

I'd be interested to see your hacksaw blade scorer. :)
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Re: St. Blazey's Works and Depot

Postby Mountain » Fri Oct 06, 2017 10:11 pm

I used a grinding disk for PCB boardand scored half way and then snapped them off to make sleepers. Hacksaw is good but it needs to be a large type unless one has a small board. The disc method one has to take care while cutting.
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Re: St. Blazey's Works and Depot

Postby Bufferstop » Fri Oct 06, 2017 11:19 pm

"Dremel" and slitting disk to score the board, clamp the wanted part between smooth faced jaws in vice, and snap. Smells something awful with some brands of board, but does snap where its wanted.
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Re: St. Blazey's Works and Depot

Postby TimberSurf » Fri Oct 06, 2017 11:23 pm

As promised/requested, I have quickly knocked up two of the scoring tools for your delictation here viewtopic.php?f=6&t=51695&p=637621#p637621. They are both very rough and ready, but work perfectly down to one track wide and is the only sensible way to cut 300mm lengths!
The dremel method is indeed very stinky and will result in tears on anything longer than the vice! :oops:
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Re: St. Blazey's Works and Depot

Postby End2end » Thu Oct 12, 2017 10:59 am

Thanks for that Timbersurf.
As I don't have the tools I cannot make that myself so I will be buying a commercial scriber.
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Re: St. Blazey's Works and Depot

Postby TimberSurf » Thu Oct 12, 2017 1:20 pm

To be honest, rather than buy a scribe (although that would also be useful for cutting sheet plastic) a more versatile and useful tool for general modelling would be the "Expo 73544 Razor Saw Set - Handle and two different blades" or "X-Acto Extra Fine Razor Saw Set" like
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Expo-73544-Ra ... Sw7NNT3qZF and http://elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby- ... JIQAvD_BwE

I have three (so I dont have to keep swapping blades in the handle) and could not do without one! They can also be fitted with a scalpel type blade that is good for high pressure cutting.
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Re: St. Blazey's Works and Depot

Postby End2end » Thu Oct 12, 2017 2:12 pm

I am still bereft of some modelling tools I'd like and that Expo saw kit is definatly already on the list even if not for the veroboard projects. :)
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Re: St. Blazey's Works and Depot

Postby End2end » Fri Oct 20, 2017 4:58 pm

The Tamiya plastic scriber turned up so I have been doing some more work on the intercity coaches.
First up here is the lower undercarriage trough that will hold most of the electronics.
IntercityCoaches19sm.jpg
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On the left is my "stay-alive" capacitors for keeping the lights on if the power goes out. I decided to go with 5 and attatch them to a piece of verboard making everything easier to solder together and to keep tidy for installation space.
In the middle is the black undercarriage part and the weight which I've covered in white electrical tape so there's no danger of any short circuits.
I've sawn off 2 bits of plastic at each end for the pick up wires to enter with enough room to move side to side as the carriage turns.
On the right is the main circuit with the 2 wires that will go to the lighting bar. These still need the 2 pick up wires from the wheels soldered on which I am yet to do.
If your stuck for space this circuit can be made on a small 6x6 board using one larger capacictor as seen on my 4 wheel coaches. :)

This next picture shows a close up of the next tweak (not completed in the first picture) which is to file down 2 slots where the weight sits to pass 2 wires through per side.
IntercityCoaches20sm.jpg
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I wracked my brains about how to run the wires up from the undercarriage yet keep them as hidden as possilbe.... and solved it! :D
Measuring by eye where the end of the undercarriage sits and where the clip holes are to hold everything together, I marked a suitable position on the seating units where I could drill a small hole to run the wires up. I then attached the seating unit to the carriage body and drilled through so now the hole goes straight through to the undercarriage.
IntercityCoaches21sm.jpg
IntercityCoaches21sm.jpg (88.63 KiB) Viewed 508 times

The wires will come up through the holes and immediatly turn 90 degrees towards the carriage sides, along the floor in front of the seats, turning once again 90 degrees towards the toilet end of the carriage. I may glue them to the sides of the seating base part as the windows do not reach the carriage floor keeping eveything nice and tidy but keep enough back so there is a loose loop of wire in the undercarriage so the carriage can be taken apart in the future without having to disconnct or disassemble anything.
I may add passengers on the seats above the wire but I need to see if it can be seen from the outside first.

I've already added the conductive paint and the pick-up springs to the 4 axles (2 per carriage) so need to solder on the wires from the springs (both wires will be black so they cannot be seen) and the capacitors board to the main circuit board, thread the lighting wire up through the carriage, make the lighting bar up with it's LEDs and resistors and possibly decide if and how I will light the toilet and/or carriage end corridor.
I will probably use black-tack to hold all the wires and boards in place in the undercarriage to stop things moving around too.
Getting there. :)
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Re: St. Blazey's Works and Depot

Postby End2end » Sat Oct 21, 2017 10:24 pm

I've completed the fitting of the circuit into the undercarriage. I decided to file another slot on each of the upright weight bearers for one of the main pick up wires. This allows the other wires to fit 2 into one slot.
I have used black tack to hold down the internal wires and to keep the weight in position although not enough to raise the weights height.
Here's both with and without the weight.
IntercityCoaches22sm.jpg
IntercityCoaches22sm.jpg (118.97 KiB) Viewed 487 times

The top black and bottom red wires of each are to go to the internal lighting bar.

And here's a close up of the circuits gubbins held down with black tack
IntercityCoaches23sm.jpg
IntercityCoaches23sm.jpg (101.77 KiB) Viewed 487 times


I'm yet to work out how I will light the toilets and corridor ends but they will probably run off, or connected to, the main lighting bar via extension wiring.
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Re: St. Blazey's Works and Depot

Postby End2end » Thu Dec 14, 2017 3:49 pm

Finally I found the where with all to sort out DCCing the Tolgus Tin loco.
To avoid melting the plastic chassis I used cardboard behind the pick ups. :)
TolgusTin7sm.jpg
TolgusTin7sm.jpg (106.18 KiB) Viewed 379 times

TolgusTin8sm.jpg
TolgusTin8sm.jpg (92.27 KiB) Viewed 379 times

Don't worry. I resoldered the red wire better after I took the photos. :lol:
It runs a little jerky at the moment as the wheels and track need to be cleaned.
I also think it needs some grease but can someone point me in the right direction for what to use please?
I have oiled it already which did make a heap of difference. :)

I still have the rear coal bunker off at the moment whilst I choose some figures to add.
But that leads me to another question...
The usual 2 black plastic figures you get with Hornby locos has one sitting down. Would there have been a seat like that in such a small loco as this?

I do have some other standing loco figures (Bachmann in blue I think?) that I could use instead if the loco's didn't have a seat.
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Re: St. Blazey's Works and Depot

Postby End2end » Fri Dec 15, 2017 1:39 pm

I just wanted to bump these 2 questions as I'd like to get this loco completely finished. :)

End2end wrote:I also think it needs some grease but can someone point me in the right direction for what to use please?

The usual 2 black plastic figures you get with Hornby locos has one sitting down.
Would there have been a seat like that in such a small loco as this?

I do have some other standing loco figures (Bachmann in blue I think?) that I could use instead if these small loco's didn't have a seat.

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Re: St. Blazey's Works and Depot

Postby Mountain » Fri Dec 15, 2017 2:33 pm

You should have just enough space to fit a small decoder (N gauge type) at the rear of the chassis of the loco. :)
I see though, that you've made a cut at the front of the chassis. Is that where it will go?
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Re: St. Blazey's Works and Depot

Postby End2end » Fri Dec 15, 2017 4:20 pm

No, I never had to make any cuts to the loco. I have used a 6 pin decoder and harness (with only 4 wires in use, the other 2 removed from the harness) and the chip sits on top of the motor with black tack.
I didn't take any photos before reassembly but it's basically what hornby have described on the website here :-
https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/hornby-dcc ... ion-guide/

I did away with the capacitor in the loco.
Although I did put it back in the loco's original box, I don't see me ever selling this loco. I've wanted it since it came out eons ago. :lol:
It does stutter on some points at the moment but as mentioned before, I need to clean the wheels and the track.
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