Thanks for your replies members.
Yes unfortunatly I do not have a baseboard yet that's why it's still in the PLANNING section.
I'm trying to do as much stuff as I can before I receive the materials to make the baseboard, as they hopefully should be coming for free. It's just a matter of waiting.
"That's a nice touch modelling the clamp on the VW Campervan - I don't think I've seen that modeled before."
Thanks skyblue. They are, in my head, wheel clamps to keep the campervan secure whilst it on a driveway.
Theres too many parking parasites in the real world...they won't be making it onto the layout lol
"Isolated track is pointless on a DCC layout" ....ok I think ill leave those out. In fact the isolating sections were a "possibility" rather than an actuality.
"Peco 100 streamline short points are only 3/4in longer than set track, admittedly a larger radius may be your issue, but with so many crossovers the 50mm gap between lines instead of Hornby's 67mm will give you more room width wise."
Yes the radius and size of baseboard are my limitations here (7foot 2 inches by 2 foot), although I will be using PECO setrack rather than hornby, at the very least on all the points with maybe some spare Hornby track that I have for the straights.
"PC power supplies are cheap if you have a free source! And will blow things up with their high current capabilities when something goes wrong! Answer is yes use them, but divide up the final circuits into "small" current area's and feed each via a suitable fuse."
My electronics knowledge is very low, so with the knowledge from other membwers here I think its best not to use PC power supplies.
These were only intended for the scenery lighting, with the possibility to use them also for points but Ithink I will be able to use the WALL WART power supplies that I already have. 12v DC regulated.
"Bachmann and Hornby are fine for running but useless for changing CV's, for only a little more, you can get an entry level system, that programs and is expandible. Look at nce powercab or (if you really want a knob) mrc prodigy express."
At the moment im trying to raise some funds for the NCE POWERCAB to give me more expansion and controlling ability. A case of finances unfortunatly.
If it comes to it I will have to start off small and replace things as finances improve.
Although it is a train set, yes I know
I have been looking at the BACHMANN 30-041 DIGITAL STARTER SET. Currently £104. This will give me a controller and 2 DCC engines.
Poor yes, but a start towards where i'm going I think and I will be able to at least control some trains to begin with, once the baseboard materials arrive.
I think this would be the cheapest way to start excluding the Hornby Select because, let's be honest, it's a train set controller parading as DCC.
"Train detection is easily achieved with an IR detector and if you really need to stop trains (in blind spots), start looking at "DC injection braking" (yes it can work in one direction only, so you can back out!)"
Ahh... I shall look into both of these. Do you or any other members have any recommendations on IR detectors/DC injection braking systems for use on a DCC layout?
"I like the idea of white after dark in the buildings, bulbs not a problem, but leds are very (spot) directional and need some "diffusion""
After I painted the inside of the buildings black then tried the lights inside I found that there was no light leakage but the LED's didn't light the buildings up enough.
Now after painting the insides white they are much better at flooding the buildings with light and give a good light from the outside view.
Thanks for all your advice.
St Blazey's is (albeit slowly and excuse the pun) on the right track.
And most of all, even with no trains or track laid, I'm having fun making the scenery models and experimenting.
Sorry if this gets posted twice. The 15 mintues to edit a post is too short and this post took over 15 minutes to construct and type!