St. Blazey's - My first layout

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End2end
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Re: St. Blazey's - My first layout

Postby End2end » Sun Feb 23, 2014 11:44 pm

A quick update on ST. Blazey's.
I managed to prise off the "Thomas like" faces that were stuck on the 2 loco's that came with the Bachmann Digital start set.
Unfortunatly the tank loco had nothing underneath it except a hole. So I contacted Bachmann and they sold me a replacement smoke box cover for £2 which iv'e glued on today so hopefully that will be stuck fast by tommorrow.
I've also almost finished buying the track with only 13 peices left to buy. :)

I have also been thinking about and looking at the control panel design and then realised that I had far too many switches on it as some points will be switched as pairs.
Here's the new design with some LED's "lit"
Panel Design Plan2Asm.JPG
Panel Design Plan2Asm.JPG (52.47 KiB) Viewed 2281 times

Not much else to report at the moment.
Thanks
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Re: St. Blazey's - My first layout

Postby End2end » Sun Mar 02, 2014 11:28 pm

Another quick update for St. Blazey's.
All the track needed has now been bought although I am still waiting for the free baseboard materials.
At the moment I am In the middle of making up one of two Hornby Victorian shops kits I own, which I totally forgot I had until the other day finding them in the bottom of a box with one where I had already started the "on sprue" painting.
I have also purchased 5 metres of red and 5 meters of black 32/0.2 for the power bus, some pipettes for ballasting etc, some watercolours for weathering (tube type rather than block paints) and my first (of many) SEEP PM1 point motors.

What I would like is if anyone could help point me in the right direction for some other things for the layout.
Firstly is terminal / connector blocks.
I've seen ones with different ratings of 3 / 5 / 10 / 15 amps but am not sure which ones to purchase.
They will be used on the main track power bus and also on the lighting bus and secondary power bus for points and control panel LEDs.
Will I need different amp rated blocks for each of the different buses?

Secondly is wiring
As mentioned before I will be using the 32/0.2 for the main track power bus (DCC)
But which cable should I purchase for:-
1, The track droppers from the DCC bus to track
2, The lighting bus
3, The secondary power bus (for the SEEP PM1 point motors etc)
(I already have, and am using 7/0.2 wire for lighting droppers connected to LED's i've made up for inside the buildings I have constructed)

Thirdly is weathering
I have inherited a modellors box with paints, brushes etc. Unfortunatly most are gloss rather than mat.
But what I need to know is, can watercolours be used over the glossy paints for weathering as some stuff I own has already been painted using the glossy paints.
And am I correct in thinking that watercolours can be used for weathering?
Also how do you make up washes?
Thanks in advance for any help.
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Re: St. Blazey's - My first layout

Postby End2end » Mon Mar 03, 2014 12:37 pm

Can anyone help with any of the above, especially the wiring as I wish to buy it asap?
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Re: St. Blazey's - My first layout

Postby Roger (RJ) » Mon Mar 03, 2014 1:54 pm

The connector blocks you need will depend on what size of wire you are using. 3 amp ones are OK for small wires while 15 amp ones would be for thicker wires. I suggest you have a look in Wilko's at their terminal strips, perhaps buy one of each size and see which sizes best suit you different wire sizes. Don't assume that you can fit thin wires in the large terminal strips, thin wires aren't held very firmly (if at all) and will tend to pull out easily or just fall out over a period of time from vibration and being knocked about.

Track droppers can be 7/0.2 if kept quite short (less than 300mm say) or 16/0.2 if the droppers have to be a bit longer. 16/0.2 is the minimum I would use for point motors ans 24/0.2 for longer point wire runs. There isn't really a bus for point motors but you can use a common return which should be of adequate size, depending on how many point motor you are operating at the same time and how long the wiring run is. The longer the wiring run, the thicker the wiring should be to keep the resistance down.

Lighting bus. How many lights and are they LED or filament lamps? Probably manage with 7/0.2 or 16/0.2.

It may be better to ask electrical questions in a new topic in the electrical section.

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Re: St. Blazey's - My first layout

Postby End2end » Mon Mar 03, 2014 8:09 pm

Many thanks for the advice Roger.
I went to Wilko's today but they had no stock so will have to re-visit at the weekend for the connector blocks. :roll:
Who else apart from me wishes the return of Woolworths? :lol:

I also managed to find some fairly cheap Scotchlock connectors for the droppers both on the power and lighting buses.
I have purchased some black and red 16/0.2 wire for the track droppers (just to err on the side of caution) as I do not have a baseboard yet so I am not sure the exact size of the power bus length or the droppers length.
(The power bus will be run on black and red 32/0.2 wire that I have already purchased)

As for the lighting, these will be LED's rather than filament bulbs due to the heat they create.
I have already made some LED's up with 7/0.2 which will then connect to the 16/0.2 lighting bus as advised. Thanks for that Roger ;)

My proposed layout is 7foot 8 inches long by 2 feet wide so I will use 24/0.2 for the point wire runs and a common return as advised as I should only be changing upto 2 points at a time.

BUT.... I will be using SEEP PM1 point motors that have around 6 solder connections on them. Should all the 6 wires connected to the point motor be 24/0.2?

Thanks
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Re: St. Blazey's - My first layout

Postby End2end » Tue Mar 04, 2014 4:05 pm

I found the answer to my last question
End2end wrote:BUT.... I will be using SEEP PM1 point motors that have around 6 solder connections on them. Should all the 6 wires connected to the point motor be 24/0.2?

Here :- viewtopic.php?f=16&t=43705&p=533189&hilit=seep+pm1+wire#p533189
Just in case anyone else would like to know as stated
Flashbang wrote:On a Seep PM1 pads A & B are the operation left and right. C is the return. You need 16 volts ac or around 20 volts dc to operate them. Use 16/0.2mm equipment wire as a minimum for all operation wires. Use passing contact switch levers e.g. Hornby R044 black lever or Peco PL26. Or sprung to centre off toggle switches (On)-Off-(On) Or two press to make non locking push buttons or stud & probe.

Seep PM 1 has one set of change over contacts built in.. .for Electrofrog points wire pad F to the frog or frog wire. Pads D & E connect to the rails leading into the points or DCC bus wires as you're a DCC user and if you have a bus pair of wires.
Note... Insulated frog points - all Hornby, all Peco Setrack and Peco Streamline without the 'E' suffex don't have switchable frog polarity, so contacts D, E & F are then free to be used for indications or signal aspect control.

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Re: St. Blazey's - My first layout

Postby End2end » Sat Mar 15, 2014 6:46 pm

A quick update on St. Blazey's
The free wood for the frame has arrived but I am still waiting on the sheet materials so I have carried on with a few small off layout projects from plastic kits and also some kit conversion from an old part of a plastic kit.
Almost finished the free lineside hut although it still needs some more weathering.
I made a base for it using 2 layers of card, cutting out the middle of one peice so the hut can sit in it.
On the outer base I used a knife to impress grooves in it to make it look like some sort of base perimeter paving.
Linemans11.JPG
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Linemans12.JPG
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Linemans13.JPG
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Also started to glue the outer shell of my victorian shops kit. Once the kit it complete I will tone down the whole thing via weathering.
semis1.JPG
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semis2.JPG
semis2.JPG (33.9 KiB) Viewed 2116 times

More to follow :)
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Re: St. Blazey's - My first layout

Postby End2end » Sun Mar 16, 2014 12:25 am

I was visiting my uncle the other day and needed to use a toothpick.
He gave me one and upon closer inspection I noticed the ends were quite ornimental so a grabbed a few off him for some modelling purposes.
Heres the toothpicks
picks1.JPG
picks1.JPG (42.55 KiB) Viewed 2101 times

The ornimental ends
picks2.JPG
picks2.JPG (45.16 KiB) Viewed 2101 times

I have a small building that was part of a larger building I sold a while back so thought that would make an interseting cameo to use the toothpicks on.
The plastic ledge was warped so I used some stirrers from a fast food resturant to make a level surface which I boxed in then added the toothpick tops I had cut off as ballastrade for the bannister.
Still needs painting and weathering but I think it looks good so far.
The underside where the plastic ledge is.
mechshop1.JPG
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Bannisters
mechshop2.JPG
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Bannisters 2
mechshop3.JPG
mechshop3.JPG (36.27 KiB) Viewed 2101 times

I left a gap in the bannisters for perhaps a "loading / unloading" cameo
Just goes to show what you can use around you for modelling :)
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Re: St. Blazey's - My first layout

Postby flying scotsman123 » Sun Mar 16, 2014 1:10 am

Nice idea, I use coffee stirrers for a number of things whenever spit some I always grab a handful! Also in our science labs at school we have some piles of splints for lighting bunsens with, their supplies sometimes take a hammering too...
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Re: St. Blazey's - My first layout

Postby TimberSurf » Sun Mar 16, 2014 9:08 am

Excellent use of what's around you E2E! I will be borrowing that idea as soon as I spot were to buy the toothpicks from!.
The "loading" gap just needs some wooden steps as the main foot entrance!
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Re: St. Blazey's - My first layout

Postby Lofty » Sun Mar 16, 2014 4:25 pm

I have just noticed that on your victorian shop kit, the front door on the left looks to open straight into the area where the side door is :wink:

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Re: St. Blazey's - My first layout

Postby End2end » Sun Mar 16, 2014 5:25 pm

Centurion wrote:I have just noticed that on your victorian shop kit, the front door on the left looks to open straight into the area where the side door is :wink:

Hornby and thier CRAZY ways lol. :?
Although thats actually the rear of the model
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Re: St. Blazey's - My first layout

Postby End2end » Mon Mar 17, 2014 7:53 pm

I am now the very proud owner of the Linka brick and stonework set. :D
linka.JPG
linka.JPG (30.89 KiB) Viewed 2046 times

And looking forward to making some scratchbuilt models with it.
For only £22.15 from fleabait. Bargain!

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Re: St. Blazey's - My first layout

Postby End2end » Mon May 05, 2014 5:08 pm

Not much going on at St. Blazey's at the moment as I am still waiting for the baseboard top and have run out of money for the rest of the point motors.
I have been working on the Hornby Victorian shops kit and will post pictures when i've finished.
But....as the song goes...
"No income tax, no VAT, no money back......from the boot sale, 50p" or something like that.

I found this at the boot sale this weekend and although it was a boxed keyring, I was sure could find a place on the layout for old Delboy and Rodders!!
ofnh5.JPG
Unopened
ofnh5.JPG (24.36 KiB) Viewed 1930 times

ofnh6.JPG
on the ring
ofnh6.JPG (40.07 KiB) Viewed 1930 times

I positioned it next to a 1/72 scale cararama mercedes and it seemed to fit quite nicely in scale.
ofnh9.JPG
next to slk
ofnh9.JPG (35.25 KiB) Viewed 1930 times

ofnh10.JPG
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I then cut off the keyring part, ready for the layout.
ofnh12.JPG
ofnh12.JPG (35.58 KiB) Viewed 1930 times


Once I have sold a few more bits and pieces I will continue to buy the point motors.
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Re: St. Blazey's - My first layout

Postby End2end » Sat May 24, 2014 4:20 am

Well I lost my virginity last Sunday....no!, not what your thinking! (that's something I haven't been able to find for years after I lost it lol)
I finally made it to my first ever train & toy fair. :D

I wasn't looking to buy anything really, just to peruse and see what these shows are all about, but, well you know how it goes.
I didn't have enough money to buy the Lord of the isles box set at 70 pounds nor another fine box set at 65 pounds (HOW CHEAP??? :shock: ), but I did buy 2 small items.
Some new Hornby metal wheels for some wagons I have plus an Oxford OO scale Landrover.
Unfortunatly my laptops psu has died as the pictures are on there so will upload them when the new psu arrives.
But I duly changed the 5 sets of wheels on my wagons and then set about opening the Land rover to add a driver.
So simple with 2 screws to open the car. I cant believe other manufaturers haven't cottoned on to this, opting for rivets instead!

I have also been working on other "off layout" stuff that I can do whilst waiting for the baseboard top to arrive.
So far I have almost finished building the Victorian shops kit and have installed all the lights, opting for 3 lights upstairs and 1 in each shop front, with scratch built dividers to emulate walls (and to hide all the wires) including a complete unit for the kitchen of one of the shops to which I added a sink and cupboards and a person looking out of the window.(seems to be becoming a trademark of my buildings lol)
The other shops upstairs is laid out as open plan.
The LED lighting for this kit is installed in such a way as if the LED fails they are easy to get out and replace.

Also i've been working on the building with the banisters I made, cutting out more of the bottom so it was easier for me to install the lighting.
I had to use a green LED as I have run out of yellow but this will change eventually to possibly a flickering led as if someone is working in there.

Plus I have been building an Airfix Cattle wagon kit as my first ever foray into the kit building of wagons. I replaced the wheels that came with the kit with some of the plastic wheels I recouped from the Hornby wagons though because Airfix had the GREAT idea of having the wheels connected to the sprue on the actual outer rim of the wheel. OK who's stupid idea was that hmm?? :roll:
And of course reading many many posts on NRM. :)

I have been thinking lately about sound for the layout and after chatting with some forum members I have some ideas on how to implement it.
If you would like to read the posts about sound for the layout here is the link - viewtopic.php?f=7&t=45767

Although my free baseboard top is taking some time to arrive, I think it's actually helping me with time to think about what i'm doing rather than rushing in with half a clue.
I will add pictures of all the above as soon as my new psu turns up for my laptop. Although this is quite a long post, pictures tell a 1000 words. :lol:

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