St. Blazey's - My first layout

[Dad-1]

Ahh this page is better ...... away from all that electronic stuff !!
Tooth picks, plastic & wood bits more a world I understand.

Geoff T.

[End2end]

Another update.
The laptop's new psu has arrived so as promised some pictures.
First the Oxford Landrover now complete with driver.

Landrover1.JPG (25.54 KiB) Viewed 3754 times

Landrover3.JPG (23.8 KiB) Viewed 3754 times

Wagons with the new metal wheels added

Wagons4.JPG (28.64 KiB) Viewed 3754 times

And some pictures of the victorian shops kit.
The empty carcass

VictorianShops3.JPG (34.15 KiB) Viewed 3754 times

The removable cardboard former with wooden rodd for attaching lighting plus a locating foot for the kitchen compartment.

VictorianShops5.JPG (34.63 KiB) Viewed 3754 times

More to follow
Thanks
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More on the victorian shops kit progress.
The removable kitchen compartment with sink and cupboards.

VictorianShops7.JPG (29.17 KiB) Viewed 3754 times

The view from the rear with the added figure "in the kitchen" looking out of the window.

VictorianShops8.JPG (28.47 KiB) Viewed 3754 times

With lighting and kitchen compartment in place.

VictorianShops9.JPG (27.63 KiB) Viewed 3754 times

View from the front.

VictorianShops10.JPG (38.07 KiB) Viewed 3754 times

Thanks
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[End2end]

I have been trying to figure out my wire colour coding for my layout, more specificly the SEEP PM1 point motor wiring.
I have made a picture of the wire plan for a single point motor, but I am not quite sure if it's wired correctly.

ST Blazeys Wiring Colour SchemeSM.JPG (64.29 KiB) Viewed 3690 times

The white R boxes are the resistors
The dotted boxes show the LED's.
The top dotted box shows the first twin aspect signal (red and green only)
The middle dotted box shows a possible 2nd twin aspect signal (red and green only) Facing the opposite way??
The bottom dotted box shows the panel mounted "route direction" LED's

The wiring I am not sure about is the - (negative leg) of the LED's.
Should they just be all wired together and a resisitor added on the negative circuit of the LED's as in the plan?
I ask this as I usually add the resisitor to the + (positive leg) of LED's when I am fitting them to buildings for internal lighting.

Just to add, ALL point motors will be firstly connected to terminal blocks not shown in the picture.
OR do you have a better wiring plan/idea??

Thanks
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[skyblue]

OR do you have a better wiring plan/idea??

Sorry, no.

But I am very impressed by your grasp of such complex electronics. Despite having finished A-Level Physics a month or so ago, I couldn't give any useful advice. I never really found that electronics were my forté (and besides we did very little of that sort of thing, it was mainly theory). I don't suppose that A-Level Physics is really intended to help much with electronics, the focus being the physics behind it.

[luckymucklebackit]

I have been trying to figure out my wire colour coding for my layout, more specificly the SEEP PM1 point motor wiring.
I have made a picture of the wire plan for a single point motor, but I am not quite sure if it's wired correctly.

ST Blazeys Wiring Colour SchemeSM.JPG

The white R boxes are the resistors
The dotted boxes show the LED's.
The top dotted box shows the first twin aspect signal (red and green only)
The middle dotted box shows a possible 2nd twin aspect signal (red and green only) Facing the opposite way??
The bottom dotted box shows the panel mounted "route direction" LED's

The wiring I am not sure about is the - (negative leg) of the LED's.
Should they just be all wired together and a resisitor added on the negative circuit of the LED's as in the plan?
I ask this as I usually add the resisitor to the + (positive leg) of LED's when I am fitting them to buildings for internal lighting.

Just to add, ALL point motors will be firstly connected to terminal blocks not shown in the picture.
OR do you have a better wiring plan/idea??

Thanks
End2end

Check out this site for advice on which resistor to use when wiring LEDs, http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz
a basic knowlege of electrical theory is required.

Jim

[End2end]

Check out this site for advice on which resistor to use when wiring LEDs, http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz
a basic knowlege of electrical theory is required.Jim

Thanks luckymucklebackit, not quite exactly what I was asking but that will be a useful resource most definatly

Thanks
End2end

[End2end]

I have been trying to figure out my wire colour coding for my layout, more specificly the SEEP PM1 point motor wiring.
I have made a picture of the wire plan for a single point motor, but I am not quite sure if it's wired correctly.

ST Blazeys Wiring Colour SchemeSM.JPG

The white R boxes are the resistors
The dotted boxes show the LED's.
The top dotted box shows the first twin aspect signal (red and green only)
The middle dotted box shows a possible 2nd twin aspect signal (red and green only) Facing the opposite way??
The bottom dotted box shows the panel mounted "route direction" LED's

The wiring I am not sure about is the - (negative leg) of the LED's.
Should they just be all wired together and a resisitor added on the negative circuit of the LED's as in the plan?
I ask this as I usually add the resisitor to the + (positive leg) of LED's when I am fitting them to buildings for internal lighting.

Just to add, ALL point motors will be firstly connected to terminal blocks not shown in the picture.
OR do you have a better wiring plan/idea??

Thanks
End2end

Just a quick bump to see if the question can be answered.
"Should they just be all wired together and 1 resisitor added on the negative part of each LED circuit as in the plan posted ?"

Thanks
End2end

[TimberSurf]

I think you missed the point with luckymucklebackit, he's spot on, the link is good, but as you want to use more than one LED, you need to click the multi calculator!

http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz

The resistor is to limit current, so has to be in series so as to limit current through all LED's.
It does not matter if it's in the plus or negative side, works either way

or alternately, you can use a resister for each led. (then if one fails, others still work)

[End2end]

Eureka! In the wee small hours I think i've got it.
Thanks Timbersurf, once I saw the link for the multiple LED calculator, managed to work out the power for the LED's and got the calulation it all clicked.

ResistorCalculation.JPG (41.54 KiB) Viewed 3601 times

Aside from what skyblue posted, my grasp on electronics is about as loose as hanging off a sheer cliff face by the fingertips of a broken hand

And thus I was trying to go round the proposed circuit working out each section as I went and had got to the LED wiring before even thinking or worrying about the resisitor needed rather than working out both together, but the link you supplied gave me the exact answer I needed on how to wire them and the resistor needed
Thanks to you both luckymucklebackit and Timbersurf........ as the crack of dawn approaches, this is one tired, but enlightened and happy modeller
Thanks
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Well it's been a while since I last posted so it's time for an update and more questions.
I now have all the 18 PM1's I need, won a Guagemaster CDU for only £5 and have purchase lots of connecting blocks so only a heap of cable to buy now hopefully

Some possible baseboard tops have also arrived but i'm not sure which, if any is suitable. There are 2 peices of each.
Forgive me my ignorance but I am not sure what these types of wood are???
The candidates so far are:-
Number 1 - Very heavy (roughly 18mm)

1.JPG (25.46 KiB) Viewed 3439 times

2.JPG (32.5 KiB) Viewed 3439 times

3.JPG (22.19 KiB) Viewed 3439 times

Cont. on next post.......

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Number 2 - light and thin (roughly 5mm)

4.JPG (23.1 KiB) Viewed 3439 times

5.JPG (21.51 KiB) Viewed 3439 times

6.JPG (32.39 KiB) Viewed 3439 times

In this 3rd picture you can also see the TENTEST board (like sundela) but it is not perfectly flat so has been discounted, for perhaps use as scenery bases rather than the baseboard.

So are these suitable for the baseboard top? As mentioned before I do have 2 peices of each so if the thin board is too thin it could be perhaps doubled up somehow if suitable.

Thanks
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[Bufferstop]

Re your different types of wood. The first 5 pictures are of different thickness's of ply. Many people use 12mm ply for their baseboard top but that's actually overkill 6mm braced with good deep side and end rails 100mm deep of the same material gives a strong but light board. Cross braces every 12 to 18inches can also be of the same material but only 80 to 100mm deep. I know we aren't supposed to mix metric and imperial dimensions but if the timber yards do it who am I to argue. The Sundela was useful about 50 years ago before the advent of Streamline track. One favourite in those days was to use flat bottom rail on preformed fibre sleepers held down every four sleepers by thin wire track spikes, which were simply pushed into the baseboard. Sundela was probably the best for that application, it needed a lot of extra support and had poor resistance to twisting when the boards were lifted.

[End2end]

Thanks for your reply bufferstop.
After measuring again, the thinner ply is definatly 5mm thick.
Not knowing sizes of boards sold in general, I wonder if 10mm ply is available as this would stop 10mm track pins from penetrating underneath?
I was planning to use 3" x 1" for the whole frame including the cross braces as the layout is over 7' long but if that is not strong enough I can get 4" x 1" fairly easily.
Thanks
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[End2end]

OK, spoke to my free timber man today and put an order in for 5 x 8 foot lenghts of 4" x 1" and a sheet of 10-12mm ply sheet for the baseboard top so all framework including the cross beams will be 4" x 1". This should help with the amount of wiring holes I plan to use underneath.
So back to a waiting game for those.
As I am not adept at woodwork I chose to go for something that will hopefully be as fool proof and strong, yet as light as possible eliminating any possible twisting or deforming.
I will be, as advised by the good members here, sealing the baseboard, but I am not sure what to seal it with.
Would normal matt emulsion (not gloss / glossy) paint be ok? And should the framwork be painted too as well as the top and bottom of the baseboard top?

The adventure continues.......
Thanks
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