Hello all
I have purchased a class 33 recently and was concerned by the brewers droop with the NEM which after reading through this forum have found is quite common.
However in my ignorance, and being new to these new fangled intricacies I think not only have I pulled the coupling out but also what I think must be the pocket (A small black squarish object with three lugs on it)
Try as I might I cannot seem to get the pocket back in where it looks as though it belongs. I am assuming the lugs that are vertically above each other should go into and between the loops/holes on the bogie and the third should be between the two prongs also sticking out from the bogie.
My questions are
1) Am I trying to poke it in the correct place
and
2) Is there a knack ( If it involves taking the bogie out how do you do this please)
This is probably so simple but I am flummoxed well and truly!
Thanks in advance for any tips
K
Class 33 couplings
Re: Class 33 couplings
It's a bit hard to explain in words but there is a knack.
One of the loops is part of the bogie baseplate .
I have succeeded by using brute force, a small, flat-bladed screwdriver and much swearing, but the better way is to partially disassemble the bogie.
The baseplates are clipped onto the main bogie chassis with plastic loops going down the side of the frame. Lever these outwards slightly to clear the metal lugs and lever the baseplate away from the bottom of the bogie chassis at the same time. This should give easier access to the coupling attachments so you can sandwich them in the correct locations while reassembling the bogies.
All of this can be a bit easier if you remove the sideframes first - they simply pull out sideways as they are a force fit on the spigots, and are not a structural part of the bogie.
One of the loops is part of the bogie baseplate .
I have succeeded by using brute force, a small, flat-bladed screwdriver and much swearing, but the better way is to partially disassemble the bogie.
The baseplates are clipped onto the main bogie chassis with plastic loops going down the side of the frame. Lever these outwards slightly to clear the metal lugs and lever the baseplate away from the bottom of the bogie chassis at the same time. This should give easier access to the coupling attachments so you can sandwich them in the correct locations while reassembling the bogies.
All of this can be a bit easier if you remove the sideframes first - they simply pull out sideways as they are a force fit on the spigots, and are not a structural part of the bogie.
Re: Class 33 couplings
I thought there must be a knack but as I am only just getting back into this after many years away things have changed a lot.
Would I be right in thinking this can be done without removing the bogie set from the engine, just removing the buffer beam to give better access?
Many thanks for your help so far
K
Would I be right in thinking this can be done without removing the bogie set from the engine, just removing the buffer beam to give better access?
Many thanks for your help so far
K
Re: Class 33 couplings
A bit of a pain .............
My two suffer from droop making coupling up almost a manual job ... or one hell of a bash that
will, in the long term only make things worse.
Using mine on a fixed passenger formation most of the time means I've lived with the problem
since 2008 ?
Geoff T.
My two suffer from droop making coupling up almost a manual job ... or one hell of a bash that
will, in the long term only make things worse.
Using mine on a fixed passenger formation most of the time means I've lived with the problem
since 2008 ?
Geoff T.
Remember ... I know nothing about railways.
http://www.newrailwaymodellers.co.uk/Fo ... 22&t=32187 and Another on http://www.newrailwaymodellers.co.uk/Fo ... &sk=t&sd=a
http://www.newrailwaymodellers.co.uk/Fo ... 22&t=32187 and Another on http://www.newrailwaymodellers.co.uk/Fo ... &sk=t&sd=a
Re: Class 33 couplings
As far as the droop goes, several modellers have simply inserted plastic shims to push the couplings up a bit, but my solution was always to use the straight couplings from Bachmann or Hornby, rather than the cranked ones Heljan use.
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Re: Class 33 couplings
Thin brass or equivalent metal off cut from a detail kit etc is ideal for slipping between the coupling and the mount to resolve NEM droop. It can affect any NEM 362 model as the accuracy is dependent on both components fitting properly and is one is moulded slightly too thick/thin/wide/thin then droop will occur. This pdf from Buffers is a useful read
http://www.buffersmodelrailways.com/con ... plings.pdf
http://www.buffersmodelrailways.com/con ... plings.pdf
Re: Class 33 couplings
Hi Chaps
Finally plucked up the courage and carried out the refitting of the pockets. Many thanks to you all and in particular to SR Man who gave me the right amount of encouragement. Unfortunately I lost the end to a couple of the sand pipes (at least that is what I think they are) but as they are underneath are out of sight.
Thanks again
K
Finally plucked up the courage and carried out the refitting of the pockets. Many thanks to you all and in particular to SR Man who gave me the right amount of encouragement. Unfortunately I lost the end to a couple of the sand pipes (at least that is what I think they are) but as they are underneath are out of sight.
Thanks again
K
Re: Class 33 couplings
Hi
It's been a while but I have now replaced the Heljan couplings with Hornby ones and they work a treat - so simple - Thank you SR Man
K
It's been a while but I have now replaced the Heljan couplings with Hornby ones and they work a treat - so simple - Thank you SR Man
K
Re: Class 33 couplings
No worries, K. I prefer to use the simplest effective solutions if at all possible, rather than rebuilding or modifying. However, sometimes the latter two actions are necessary, as in a recent purchase of mine of a Heljan class 33, where the previous owner had fully detailed the buffer beams and cut off the loops on the bogie chassis that took the coupling pocket extensions. I purchased replacement parts for the entire bogie tower from Howes, and rebuilt the bogies using the existing gears and bearings, plus electrical pickups, and inserting the coupling mechanisms at the same time. Needless to say, this also entailed removing the bogies completely (not difficult with the way Heljan constructs the mechanisms). The fiddly/tricky part was refitting the bogies and drive shafts through the plastic hoops that provide part of the bogie location system, but I got there in the end, with only a modicum of swearing!