Class 33 couplings

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kjiwizard
Posts: 101
Joined: Tue Jul 26, 2011 2:28 pm
Location: Faversham, Kent

Class 33 couplings

Postby kjiwizard » Sat Nov 22, 2014 8:53 pm

Hello all

I have purchased a class 33 recently and was concerned by the brewers droop with the NEM which after reading through this forum have found is quite common.
However in my ignorance, and being new to these new fangled intricacies I think not only have I pulled the coupling out but also what I think must be the pocket (A small black squarish object with three lugs on it)

Try as I might I cannot seem to get the pocket back in where it looks as though it belongs. I am assuming the lugs that are vertically above each other should go into and between the loops/holes on the bogie and the third should be between the two prongs also sticking out from the bogie.

My questions are

1) Am I trying to poke it in the correct place

and

2) Is there a knack ( If it involves taking the bogie out how do you do this please)


This is probably so simple but I am flummoxed well and truly!

Thanks in advance for any tips

K

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SRman
Posts: 897
Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 2:26 am

Re: Class 33 couplings

Postby SRman » Sun Nov 23, 2014 2:17 am

It's a bit hard to explain in words but there is a knack.

One of the loops is part of the bogie baseplate .

I have succeeded by using brute force, a small, flat-bladed screwdriver and much swearing, but the better way is to partially disassemble the bogie.

The baseplates are clipped onto the main bogie chassis with plastic loops going down the side of the frame. Lever these outwards slightly to clear the metal lugs and lever the baseplate away from the bottom of the bogie chassis at the same time. This should give easier access to the coupling attachments so you can sandwich them in the correct locations while reassembling the bogies.

All of this can be a bit easier if you remove the sideframes first - they simply pull out sideways as they are a force fit on the spigots, and are not a structural part of the bogie.

kjiwizard
Posts: 101
Joined: Tue Jul 26, 2011 2:28 pm
Location: Faversham, Kent

Re: Class 33 couplings

Postby kjiwizard » Sun Nov 23, 2014 9:44 am

I thought there must be a knack but as I am only just getting back into this after many years away things have changed a lot.

Would I be right in thinking this can be done without removing the bogie set from the engine, just removing the buffer beam to give better access?

Many thanks for your help so far

K

Dad-1
Posts: 5471
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2008 8:05 pm
Location: Dorset - A mile from West Bay.

Re: Class 33 couplings

Postby Dad-1 » Sun Nov 23, 2014 11:26 am

A bit of a pain .............
My two suffer from droop making coupling up almost a manual job ... or one hell of a bash that
will, in the long term only make things worse.
Using mine on a fixed passenger formation most of the time means I've lived with the problem
since 2008 ?

Geoff T.
Remember ... I know nothing about railways.
viewtopic.php?f=22&t=32187 and Another on viewtopic.php?f=22&t=28436&start=60&st=0&sk=t&sd=a

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SRman
Posts: 897
Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 2:26 am

Re: Class 33 couplings

Postby SRman » Mon Nov 24, 2014 3:04 am

As far as the droop goes, several modellers have simply inserted plastic shims to push the couplings up a bit, but my solution was always to use the straight couplings from Bachmann or Hornby, rather than the cranked ones Heljan use.

Mike Parkes
Posts: 520
Joined: Sat Sep 01, 2007 8:25 pm

Re: Class 33 couplings

Postby Mike Parkes » Mon Nov 24, 2014 5:15 pm

Thin brass or equivalent metal off cut from a detail kit etc is ideal for slipping between the coupling and the mount to resolve NEM droop. It can affect any NEM 362 model as the accuracy is dependent on both components fitting properly and is one is moulded slightly too thick/thin/wide/thin then droop will occur. This pdf from Buffers is a useful read
http://www.buffersmodelrailways.com/con ... plings.pdf

kjiwizard
Posts: 101
Joined: Tue Jul 26, 2011 2:28 pm
Location: Faversham, Kent

Re: Class 33 couplings

Postby kjiwizard » Sun Dec 21, 2014 9:32 pm

Hi Chaps

Finally plucked up the courage and carried out the refitting of the pockets. Many thanks to you all and in particular to SR Man who gave me the right amount of encouragement. Unfortunately I lost the end to a couple of the sand pipes (at least that is what I think they are) but as they are underneath are out of sight.

Thanks again

K

kjiwizard
Posts: 101
Joined: Tue Jul 26, 2011 2:28 pm
Location: Faversham, Kent

Re: Class 33 couplings

Postby kjiwizard » Sat Mar 26, 2016 8:23 pm

Hi

It's been a while but I have now replaced the Heljan couplings with Hornby ones and they work a treat - so simple - Thank you SR Man

K

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SRman
Posts: 897
Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 2:26 am

Re: Class 33 couplings

Postby SRman » Sun Mar 27, 2016 3:29 am

No worries, K. :) I prefer to use the simplest effective solutions if at all possible, rather than rebuilding or modifying. However, sometimes the latter two actions are necessary, as in a recent purchase of mine of a Heljan class 33, where the previous owner had fully detailed the buffer beams and cut off the loops on the bogie chassis that took the coupling pocket extensions. I purchased replacement parts for the entire bogie tower from Howes, and rebuilt the bogies using the existing gears and bearings, plus electrical pickups, and inserting the coupling mechanisms at the same time. Needless to say, this also entailed removing the bogies completely (not difficult with the way Heljan constructs the mechanisms). The fiddly/tricky part was refitting the bogies and drive shafts through the plastic hoops that provide part of the bogie location system, but I got there in the end, with only a modicum of swearing!


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