Gresley 2-6-2. Help.
- Journeyman
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Gresley 2-6-2. Help.
Bought a Bachmann Cresley 2-6-2 V2 Class on the bay and when I opened the box one of the front bogey wheels fell out, also the two front driver wheel had come lose on their axle.
I replaced all the wheels but the connecting rods must be out of phase as some of the wheels are oscillating rather than rotating. Is there an easy way of aligning the connecting rods?
And how are they phased left to right?
Cheers, Dave.
I replaced all the wheels but the connecting rods must be out of phase as some of the wheels are oscillating rather than rotating. Is there an easy way of aligning the connecting rods?
And how are they phased left to right?
Cheers, Dave.
Last edited by Journeyman on Sun Apr 11, 2021 7:43 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Cresley 2-6-2. Help.
Unless it was described as a non runner, I'd be sending it back and getting a refund of purchase price and postage both ways. You can also approach ebay for a refund. This model you've bought will have a split chassis with nylon/plastic insulators separating the driving wheels from each other. Even if you managed to repair that, you'd probably find that the plating on the chassis bearings (bearings for want of a better word) will be worn, making the electrical pick up really bad. As for the pony truck, I can only guess. If this seller made no mention of these faults or didn't describe it as parts only or a non runner, he's simply unloaded a load of junk, so don't feel bad about going for a full refund.
Btw, it's Gresley, not Cresley.
Btw, it's Gresley, not Cresley.
Pete.
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Re: Gresley 2-6-2. Help.
Thanks for the insight Pete you know the model well.
Rather than going to the trouble of returning it I’d rather repair it and use it as a learning exercise getting to know how these engines come apart and how they work, it will be good to get over the fear of pulling one apart.
Could you tell me how to dismantle it?
It’s not obvious how the body comes off the chassis.
Thanks for any help, Dave.
PS. I’ve corrected the spelling!
Rather than going to the trouble of returning it I’d rather repair it and use it as a learning exercise getting to know how these engines come apart and how they work, it will be good to get over the fear of pulling one apart.
Could you tell me how to dismantle it?
It’s not obvious how the body comes off the chassis.
Thanks for any help, Dave.
PS. I’ve corrected the spelling!
- Ironduke
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Re: Gresley 2-6-2. Help.
here is a link to a sevice sheet
http://www.lendonsmodelshop.co.uk/pdf/B ... 02-6-2.pdf
is this the right one?
http://www.lendonsmodelshop.co.uk/pdf/B ... 02-6-2.pdf
is this the right one?
one side should be at 90 degrees to the other (quatered).Journeyman wrote:And how are they phased left to right?
Regards
Rob
Rob
Re: Gresley 2-6-2. Help.
If you wish to do this, there is a broad crossheaded screw under the cab, remove this and the chassis hinges out, engaged by a protruding tab at the front end.
The mechanism assembly, you'll see the 'split chassis' looking down on it.
Go to the underside, and undo the two screws between the coupled wheels which retain the keeper plate., The keeper plate than unclips - easiest at the rear end - but gently does it as the plastic becomes brittle with age, and you will find it takes the front and rear pony trucks with it. The rear truck is always electrically connected to the chassis halves of the model is in original condition, by one of the through screws that hold the split chassis halves in alignment while maintaining insulation, (the front pony truck may likewise be connected).
Remove the the three 'through screws' in the chassis block and the mechanism will all be in pieces.
Personally I am all with PeterM's suggestion, better off returning it, and buying something with a standard 6/8/ 21 pin or Next18 DCC socket in it as a place to start learning about current mechanisms.
Also to avoid, locos from: DJM, Lima, Mainline, Airfix GMR, Margate Hornby, Wrenn.
The mechanism assembly, you'll see the 'split chassis' looking down on it.
Go to the underside, and undo the two screws between the coupled wheels which retain the keeper plate., The keeper plate than unclips - easiest at the rear end - but gently does it as the plastic becomes brittle with age, and you will find it takes the front and rear pony trucks with it. The rear truck is always electrically connected to the chassis halves of the model is in original condition, by one of the through screws that hold the split chassis halves in alignment while maintaining insulation, (the front pony truck may likewise be connected).
Remove the the three 'through screws' in the chassis block and the mechanism will all be in pieces.
That's the better idea. This model has been out of production for a long time, and started out as one of the roughest dogs in Bach's split chassis range, and one that was most prone to rapid wear out. This construction was used in Bachmann's exploratory launch into UK OO as a cheap entry to the market, with the benefit of loco drive as compared to the dreadful tender drives otherwise standard in Hornby's tender engines. This construction has now been dropped, as has tender drive, and much superior steam loco drive mechanisms are now near universal in RTR OO.Peterm wrote:... he's simply unloaded a load of junk, so don't feel bad about going for a full refund...
Personally I am all with PeterM's suggestion, better off returning it, and buying something with a standard 6/8/ 21 pin or Next18 DCC socket in it as a place to start learning about current mechanisms.
Also to avoid, locos from: DJM, Lima, Mainline, Airfix GMR, Margate Hornby, Wrenn.
- Ironduke
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Re: Gresley 2-6-2. Help.
or here is a worse one https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/shop/locomotive/lcp36/Bigmet wrote:That's the better idea.
Regards
Rob
Rob
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Re: Gresley 2-6-2. Help.
The model was introduced by "I think Palitoy" under the name "Mainline" it may well have been produced by the same people who produced it for Bachman. One wheel oscillating is usually a symptom of one set of wheels being "flipped over" whilst still coupled via the rods. Take note that the three pairs of screws passing through the chassis have one long and one short screw in each straight through hole. Getting two long screws in one hole will short circuit the supply and if it doesn't trip your power supply may lead to some screw to screw welding surrounded by molten plastic and a nasty smell!
I bought an 0-6-0 with a similar chassis as a "dead un". Fortunately it was a case of two long screws, the plating was starting to wear off, in my case from the stub axles moulded to the back of the wheels, I made six J shaped wipers and hooked them over the top edges of the chassis, rubbing on the backs of the wheels. I got another ten years out of it before the nylon axles started to wear away.
If you haven't yet disturbed the the remaining wheels on their axles, leave them alone for now, as they may be able to guide you through replacing the loose one. Re assemble the wheels, rods and keeper to the chassis taking note that the remaining cranks on each side line up with each other, Remove the rod from the two remaining wheels and attach it the the loose wheel attach that rod to the rear wheel and guide the loose wheel into place keeping all three cranks in line start to press the wheel back onto it's axle, pause once it's started introduce the tiniest drop of superglue onto the top of the axle, allow a few seconds for it to start to run into the join then press the wheel down on the axle. At this point, just to be cautious I'd carefully drop the wheels out again before the glue has had chance to soak right through, leave them undisturbed for 24hrs. It's more important that the cranks line up than that they are exactly ninety degrees to the ones on the other side, it's only real on steam engines that it matters, it's just nice to get it somewhere near right. If they are a fraction out you'll have to use the glued one as the datum and twist the other two to line up. If you can't get it to run give up! You won't be the first to decide it's not worth any more wasted energy.
Good Luck
I bought an 0-6-0 with a similar chassis as a "dead un". Fortunately it was a case of two long screws, the plating was starting to wear off, in my case from the stub axles moulded to the back of the wheels, I made six J shaped wipers and hooked them over the top edges of the chassis, rubbing on the backs of the wheels. I got another ten years out of it before the nylon axles started to wear away.
If you haven't yet disturbed the the remaining wheels on their axles, leave them alone for now, as they may be able to guide you through replacing the loose one. Re assemble the wheels, rods and keeper to the chassis taking note that the remaining cranks on each side line up with each other, Remove the rod from the two remaining wheels and attach it the the loose wheel attach that rod to the rear wheel and guide the loose wheel into place keeping all three cranks in line start to press the wheel back onto it's axle, pause once it's started introduce the tiniest drop of superglue onto the top of the axle, allow a few seconds for it to start to run into the join then press the wheel down on the axle. At this point, just to be cautious I'd carefully drop the wheels out again before the glue has had chance to soak right through, leave them undisturbed for 24hrs. It's more important that the cranks line up than that they are exactly ninety degrees to the ones on the other side, it's only real on steam engines that it matters, it's just nice to get it somewhere near right. If they are a fraction out you'll have to use the glued one as the datum and twist the other two to line up. If you can't get it to run give up! You won't be the first to decide it's not worth any more wasted energy.
Good Luck
Growing old, can't avoid it. Growing up, forget it!
My Layout, My Workbench Blog and My Opinions
My Layout, My Workbench Blog and My Opinions
Re: Gresley 2-6-2. Help.
Yes, a version with a 'current standard' mechanism but the same old body was introduced ten years ago or thereabouts. This didn't raise much of a hurrah, as the boiler shape is very obviously flawed, and a pretty crude moulding to boot; also the traction is seriously lacking as the mechanism is too light, and it is overgeared so cannot gallop up to the express speed the class was fully capable of. This hasn't been rereleased since, TTBoMK.... Have Bachmann released a new chassis design yet?
(The various problems can be largely fixed, but it does involve sawing a lump out of the boiler and the purchase of parts to substitute for the worst visual faults, internal carving to fit plenty of ballast weight and cranking up your DCC track voltage for 15V at the motor terminals. I contented myself with cheap DIY body mods, weighting for traction and the higher DCC voltage for express speed capability.)
Now expected toward year end from Bachmann, a completely new model, both body and mechanism. At last a V2 model that looks right, and by report of testing on the layout of Tony Wright, appears to run and pull well; so hopefully the RTR OO model long required of the UK's best heavy mixed traffic steam design. I will report here once I have a sample on my layout.
Last edited by Bigmet on Sun Apr 11, 2021 6:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Gresley 2-6-2. Help.
Thanks Rob that service sheet along with Bigmet and Bufferstop’s descriptions should get me started this evening.
Thank you all I’ll let you know how I get on.
Wave, Dave.
Thank you all I’ll let you know how I get on.
Wave, Dave.
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Re: Gresley 2-6-2. Help.
Just to up date. After a bit of a think decided you are right and I should return the engine.
Will let you know how I get on, thanks for all the help and advise,
Cheers, Dave.
Will let you know how I get on, thanks for all the help and advise,
Cheers, Dave.
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Re: Gresley 2-6-2. Help.
The Gresley 2-6-2T was first released in 1992 in the Bachmann range and was significant in being Bachmanns first UK loco that had not come from tooling previously used for Palitoy's Mainline range. The manufacturer of the Bachmann UK range and most of the earlier Palitoy Mainline range as well as the late 1980s Replica models is Kader Industrial Co Ltd.Bufferstop wrote:The model was introduced by "I think Palitoy" under the name "Mainline" it may well have been produced by the same people who produced it for Bachman.
Re: Gresley 2-6-2. Help.
For the future, the 'split chassis' locos with this weak construction from Bachmann, Replica and Mainline, may be avoided by not buying locos lacking a DCC decoder socket and NEM coupler pockets.Journeyman wrote:Just to up date. After a bit of a think decided you are right and I should return the engine. Will let you know how I get on...
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Re: Gresley 2-6-2. Help.
Thanks Bigmet that good to know, buying Locos is a minefield for the unwary.Bigmet wrote:For the future, the 'split chassis' locos with this weak construction from Bachmann, Replica and Mainline, may be avoided by not buying locos lacking a DCC decoder socket and NEM coupler pockets.
Will do more research before buying next time.
Dave.
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Re: Gresley 2-6-2. Help.
I would have said a better one myself. To try and repair the old Bachmann ones is nigh on impossible if mot impossible.Ironduke wrote:or here is a worse one https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/shop/locomotive/lcp36/Bigmet wrote:That's the better idea.
- Ironduke
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Re: Gresley 2-6-2. Help.
Yes.. I meant "worse" as in building chassis kits is a road to hell that has no turningtrainlover23 wrote:I would have said a better one myself. To try and repair the old Bachmann ones is nigh on impossible if mot impossible.Ironduke wrote:or here is a worse one https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/shop/locomotive/lcp36/Bigmet wrote:That's the better idea.
Regards
Rob
Rob