Shall I swap scale/gauge to 0-16.5?

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Emettman
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Re: Shall I swap scale/gauge to 0-16.5?

Postby Emettman » Thu Nov 02, 2017 6:20 pm

Mountain wrote: I will check the Gnomy size with my virtual loading gauge.

I've just managed to find out that the Faller "Hit Train" O scals and gauge coach and loco are based on a 60mm width, the coach having a 100 x 50mm four window side panel
(130mm length including verandahs)

The loco body would chop shorter and to a degree Anglicise quite easily, coming out perhaps a bit like the Bowaters Bagnals.
Something a bit heftier than your current approach, I think.

Image

Chris
"It's his madness that keeps him sane."

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Mountain
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Re: Shall I swap scale/gauge to 0-16.5?

Postby Mountain » Fri Nov 03, 2017 11:02 am

Thanks Emettman. That's a real help. Actually, it maybe possible to cut them down a bit in height and width if needed. Was just an idea I have had.

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PinkNosedPenguin
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Re: Shall I swap scale/gauge to 0-16.5?

Postby PinkNosedPenguin » Tue Nov 07, 2017 9:36 pm

A couple of coats of primer with the cab interior masked off (this is the first time I have spray painted a model!):
ImageIMG_8118 by Pink Nosed Penguin, on Flickr

This photo shows I have a few small gaps to fill before progressing to top coats . . . :D

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Mountain
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Re: Shall I swap scale/gauge to 0-16.5?

Postby Mountain » Wed Nov 08, 2017 8:20 am

That is looking good. Will be looking to see what colour you will paint the main coat. One thing I love about watching people build these kits is as they are mostly freelance kits, each person brings their own style and livery to them, which is a refreshing break from the conformity of following an exact prototype livery. I love this approach as one can build ones own railway company which actually challenges one to learn more about prototype practice's then if one had made a direct copy. There are decisions to make like "Will I adopt a central buffer or twin buffer design for my railway?" and "What will be my acceptable loading gauge in height and width, and what will be the sharpest radius curve I will use?"
All these aspects bring character along with a sense of realism as every aspect one has thought about and considered just like a comitee of people who set up a little railway company would have done.

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Re: Shall I swap scale/gauge to 0-16.5?

Postby PinkNosedPenguin » Mon Nov 13, 2017 7:23 pm

Mountain wrote:That is looking good. Will be looking to see what colour you will paint the main coat. One thing I love about watching people build these kits is as they are mostly freelance kits, each person brings their own style and livery to them, which is a refreshing break from the conformity of following an exact prototype livery. I love this approach as one can build ones own railway company which actually challenges one to learn more about prototype practice's then if one had made a direct copy. There are decisions to make like "Will I adopt a central buffer or twin buffer design for my railway?" and "What will be my acceptable loading gauge in height and width, and what will be the sharpest radius curve I will use?"
All these aspects bring character along with a sense of realism as every aspect one has thought about and considered just like a comitee of people who set up a little railway company would have done.

I agree - I have never modeled a particular prototype, or worried how closely I follow the 'real thing', as I like to use my imagination. So to go completely freelance is even more liberating. I think subconsciously it is one of the attractions of narrow gauge for me. Of course this horrifies some people, and I respect their views, but each to their own 8)
My goal will be more to capture the atmosphere of what I'm trying to create, rather than to replicate a real life place. And a narrow gauge railway seems to offer some real character in all of: locos, rolling stock, buildings etc. Of course I still want it to be realistic and look like a railway, just not a (part of a) particular railway.

Anyway, back to the matter in hand - my first 0-16.5 loco :-D
I decided on humbrol 80 'grass green' in matt for the colour for this loco. So I sprayed three coats onto it and then started to pick out parts in tar black, red and brass. The last two colours were washed-on to avoid them looking too bright - though I will be weathering further in due course. This is how it is now looking:
ImageIMG_8120 by Pink Nosed Penguin, on Flickr

ImageIMG_8121 by Pink Nosed Penguin, on Flickr

The first one reproduces the real colour in the photo much more closely than the second, and I think I am happy with it. The cab roof is just resting in place at the moment, so will fit more snugly when fitted properly. Moving on next to hand rails . . .
Thanks for reading.

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Mountain
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Re: Shall I swap scale/gauge to 0-16.5?

Postby Mountain » Mon Nov 13, 2017 9:49 pm

That does look good. :) It is well worth taking your time with these kits. While I expect it will be loco number 1, any thoughts about its name? On my little railway, I have a tradition of naming steam trains in the female gender and diesels in the male gender.
What about couplings and train crew? I have not yet painted enough little people up as yet to use as train crew on my locos.
Your loco is certainly looking good though. I'm impressed!

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PinkNosedPenguin
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Re: Shall I swap scale/gauge to 0-16.5?

Postby PinkNosedPenguin » Tue Nov 14, 2017 6:42 pm

Thanks for your continued interest Mountain 8)
Yes it will be loco #1 prominently displayed on the cab side (easy for DCC address identification!) and I have ordered name and number plates from Narrow Planet. I will be naming my locos after departed family members, and like you, thought females for steam and males for diesels would work quite nicely! I intend to go with the supplied tension lock couplings for the moment. Soon I will be attempting to paint my loco driver, who seems huge (and heavy!) after N gauge figures - which I never attempting to paint :o. I am also considering treating this loco to some sprung buffers - as I don't like the blocks that came with the kit.

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Mountain
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Re: Shall I swap scale/gauge to 0-16.5?

Postby Mountain » Tue Nov 14, 2017 10:19 pm

Sprung buffers. Now that's fancy. I take it your model will have two buffers per bufferbeam. Not sure where you get 7mm scale buffers from, but they are bound to be available.
You will find there is room for an N gauge DCC decoder at the back of most of the 0-4-0 chassis if there is not enough room in the body. Locos like my Smallbrook Clio it is the only way unless one uses the cab.
While you've been working on your loco, I've been busy working on my layout, as I want to get it working to run my trains on.

b308
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Re: Shall I swap scale/gauge to 0-16.5?

Postby b308 » Wed Nov 15, 2017 9:04 am

It's worth bearing in mind that very few NG lines in the UK used twin buffers as per SG practice, one centre coupling was the norm. If you do use them stick 'em close together like the Tallylyn, they look better like that!

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Mountain
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Re: Shall I swap scale/gauge to 0-16.5?

Postby Mountain » Wed Nov 15, 2017 6:24 pm

I think the main reason why so many adopted the centre buffer and coupling was that it worked better going round sharp corners. Some adopted the twin buffer because it worked well when the waggon frames would double up as buffers, so on the minor industrial lines of which most were propelled by a horse, this twin buffer design was popular except that all it was was the ends of the wood. Sometimes a metal band would go round these chassis ends to prevent the wood splitting. This design of simple twin buffer was very popular, but not so often seen on main narrow gauge lines which employed steam traction which the centre buffer became the more common method.
It did happen that some mixing of the two where one industry had internal waggons and they would meet the main line, but understandably, the loco would have two buffer types or the waggons could be used for more then one coupling type.
Like with 0-16.5 where quite a few different coupling methods are used, the prototypes employed many more types. The one I used to base my design on was the Welshpool and Llanfair Railway as the two breakaway safety chains dropped down and I used this look to form a metal loop instead, rather similar to the Corris Railway coupling loop but larger. My loop was going to be two chains with a metal cross piece but I opted for a metal loop instead for the convenience of making the things as there is enough work in making a simple coupling on my entire fleet! I still have many more to do as some still have the Peco type as used by Hornby Dublo and Jouef, and others have tension locks. If the Peco types were not so expensive to buy I would have used them as they are simple solid things and look as if they are meant to be there! I just saw the price and thought maybe not. My initial attempt to make my own didnt make valid use of my modelling time, why I turned to drawing pins instead.

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carnehan
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Re: Shall I swap scale/gauge to 0-16.5?

Postby carnehan » Wed Nov 15, 2017 6:45 pm

For your first foray in to 16.5mm gauge, PNP, this is looking like a real corker. The colour scheme of that little loco is just sublime. Has this wet your appetite enough to make the move?

Paul

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Re: Shall I swap scale/gauge to 0-16.5?

Postby PinkNosedPenguin » Wed Nov 15, 2017 9:07 pm

Thanks for comments everyone. Re the buffers I have ordered a set of 4 and will see how they look. Yes b308 it was actually pictures of Sir Haydn and the other Tallylyn locos that made me think of getting some :D

Onwards with the build . . . I fitted the hand-rails. They were quite fiddly to thread into the knobs - and I found that the holes drilled into the knobs can't have been 100% straight as the knobs are slightly slanting for a horizontal rail. But I don't think its too noticeable. Painted black they look like this:
ImageIMG_8129 by Pink Nosed Penguin, on Flickr

I then turned my attention to the driver, who came as a whitemetal casting with separate left arm that could be 'posed' appropriately. Here he is part-painted:
ImageIMG_8122 by Pink Nosed Penguin, on Flickr

And here in position in the cab:
ImageIMG_8126 by Pink Nosed Penguin, on Flickr

ImageIMG_8128 by Pink Nosed Penguin, on Flickr

Wow these photos are brutal :o - I must stop using macro mode! I think he looks ok to the naked eye 8). I wasn't sure of the skin colour I mixed at first, but it dried looking recognisable as skin at least :lol:. He's also surprisingly heavy, adding quite a lot of weight to the plastic body, not sure if I will need some lead to counterbalance . . . ?

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Mountain
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Re: Shall I swap scale/gauge to 0-16.5?

Postby Mountain » Wed Nov 15, 2017 10:13 pm

Excellent work there. I love the guy you've painted as he looks quite a character! :D

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Re: Shall I swap scale/gauge to 0-16.5?

Postby TimberSurf » Wed Nov 15, 2017 10:35 pm

Given your excellent work in N gauge, I have no doubt you would turn out some similar quality in a larger gauge, I am not disappointed. The engine is looking really good. Before I got to the bottom of the pictures, I was thinking that white metal driver would add to weight and my mind wandered to do the same in OO, well perhaps not :? I cant wait to see you start the layout. :D
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Emettman
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Re: Shall I swap scale/gauge to 0-16.5?

Postby Emettman » Thu Nov 16, 2017 12:45 am

I've been prompted by this thread to have a go at an O-16.5 loco or two, as that was in my "future idea" list anyway.

Starting point is a pair of Faller O-scale bodies, and existing OO chasss re-motored for 3V battery power.

The body's height was unchanged, but markedly shortened.
I also took 5mm off the width, but in retrospect that was more effort than it was worth, unless absolutely necessary to fit an existing loading gauge.

DSC01030.JPG


Shown here the compact IR receiver and battery holder (2 AAA) which here fits nicely inside the boiler.

Options for chassis
0-4-0 3ft wheels in 1:45, from the cheap Toy Story loco.

DSC01029.JPG



0-6-0 2ft 7in wheels in 1:45, from a Bachman Junior loco.

DSC01032.JPG


Having played and posed with the loose pieces I think I'm going with the 0-4-0 this time.

Chris
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