Suzie wrote:joshv8 wrote:I have persisted with cleaning pickups and wheel faces as an assembly but to no avail. But I think you're right it may be a pickup problem. Its usually not too problematic while running but if you stop to change points or halt a train and go to restart running at least 50% of the time it needs a wiggle, like the decoder hasn't got the power. Now its not even much of a wiggle. Perhaps I need to disassemble the wheel sets, clean individually and clean the pickups that way rather than trying to get in there. Ill check soldered joints too.
Zimo will help you here. If you stop somewhere with poor pickup the decoder will nudge the loco along until it gets good pickup again before stopping. It will not overcome a serious problem with total loss of pickup or a short, but specks of dirt and the occasional wheel on a dead frog should be overcome easily.
You can always add a stay alive capacitor for more resilience (PluX-16 MX630 or PluX-22 MX633 decoders, or the PluX sound decoders have the pins for this).
Thanks for the addition! And I think ultimately will be the way to go. I will persist the the hornby decoders for the time being and upgrade in time.
Looking through availability of your suggested components seems the adaptors are somewhat unavailable at the moment so looking like I will be doing a hard wire job for the time being.
Also the MX600 is seemingly hard to find but I can get the MX600R ok. Can I purchase those and simply cut the plug off the end?
Bigmet wrote:If a decoder fitted loco doesn't start on command = no current reaching decoder. I feel you are likely onto something with the seized wheelsets and corrosion. The connection to one rail via the axles and wheels, means that any metal oxide (rust) between axle and cast chassis block will prevent conduction. Make it all shiny metal in there, and see if reliability improves to the 100% that we all want.
Ok, J52, so I had some good results here, completely removed the wheel sets. Found the front axle bearings tight in the block. Cleaned everything up, oiled and reassembled.
No issues stopping and starting at all, at an exceptional snails pace it did stop just past a frog but all in all a great result and if I do change decoders as Suzie suggested I imagine it will pick up any remaining issues. I'll play a bit more tonight to make sure the issue seems to be solved.
The B12 is basically running ok, removing the wheel set found a lot of hardened grease around the worm gear. But has quite a bit of motor noise at shunting speed. It dissapears at higher speed. Sounds to be gear noise. Im unsure if there is adjustment but I believe the wormdrive has a nylon gear and might benefit from a brass one.
Thanks for the suggestion!
Mountain wrote:Bachmann used to sell complete running chassis which would fit with no or very little modification straight into Mainline bodies as when Bachmann came into the UK market, they basically used some of the Mainline moulds and redesigned the chassis with 5 pole conventional motors but going through a split chassis set up similar to mainline which apart from needing regular maintenence I had no issues with them. And these chassis could be had for very reasonable prices. I was sold a tender and a body from a standard class at a very good "Please rescue me" price which was either Mainline or Bachmann. The secondhand retailer offered them to me cheap as a token price as he did not think he could sell them.
I bought new Makits wheels for the tender and a new Bachmann split chassis which needed a little delicate work as the con rods were supplied upsidown so this was corrected, and it was all like new and all in cost me less than half the price of a new model. I was not into BR steam locos so a friend bought it off me. I only bought it to rescue it. The brand new Bachmann chassis cost me £17.95. Nearly all Bachmann retailers had a stock of them on display.
Too bad it's not still the case! I have my 2 mainline J72s that could really use converting. Theyre not exactly cheap but Bachmanns new J72 looks quite fantastic... might be worth the new purchase rather than converting the older ones.
Cheers,
Josh