Converting to dcc

[pop]

Hi,I have a Hornby 4-6-2 "Princess Victoria" that i was hopeing to convert to dcc,on speaking to Hattons they said its not worth doing and buy a dcc ready
is this the case or can it be done,is it worth the hassle
Thanks

[Flashbang]

Hi
Virtually all dc analogue locos can be converted, some are easier than others though!

The first thing though is the loco MUST run faultlessly on dc power before conversion is considered. Any hesitancy or failing to start must be corrected before conversion. If its not corrected it will become far worse on DCC!!

I need more details of the particular loco. Its Hornby Rxxx number would help or the type of motor fitted if known? - Tender drive with a Ringfield motor, loco drive with modern can motor or older open frame XO4 type motor etc

[pop]

Hi Flashbang,
sorry i cant tell you much but under the plastic body is R50 there arnt any markings or numbers on the motor or frame(that i can see)
it does run fine, The motor drives the main center wheels on the loco(loco drive?)ive typed x04 in on the internet and the pics look the same as mine.
Any more help you could give would be great.
Thanks

[hiffano]

Hi,I have a Hornby 4-6-2 "Princess Victoria" that i was hopeing to convert to dcc,on speaking to Hattons they said its not worth doing and buy a dcc ready
is this the case or can it be done,is it worth the hassle
Thanks

Always trying to sell you stuff eh

have you googled it? quite a lot of handty guides out there for DCCing your locos.

[Flashbang]

Hi
Its a very old model with an XO4 or XO3 open framed motor.

These motors are fairly easy to convert. But before doing so, ensure the loco runs faultlessly on dc power. Any hesitancy to start or other poor performance MUST be resolved before converting. If you're unable to overcome any poor running issues do not convert as it will become far worse on DCC!

Looking at the top of the motor there is a Vee shaped spring with an insulated sleeve on one side. Remove the wire and its small connector that's behind the insulated brush side of the spring and cut off the connector. If there is any other comportments between the end of this wire and the wheel wipers, cut the wire on the wheel wiper side of the component and remove them. Connect to this wheel wiper wire the decoders red wire and cover the joint with heat shrink tubing or PVC tape.
Connect the decoders black wire to the screw that holds the Vee spring in place and re tighten the screw trapping decoder wire and spring together, or use the wiring tag if one is fitted under the screw that has had the old wires removed from.
Solder the decoders grey and orange wires to the tops of each brush. Position the decoder so as it is secure and cannot touch any metal chassis etc.

On the currently bare uninsulated side of the Vee spring slip a piece of insulating tube (cut from half of the insulation on the other side) or a piece of spare wires insulation so as both brushes are now totally insulated from the Vee spring.

Once you’re sure everything is correct, recheck the Vee spring is insulated on both sides from the motor brushes and the decoder is insulated too. Place the loco on the programming track and set its address. Test loco on main under its new address number. If the loco runs in the opposite direction from that shown on the console, swap over the grey and orange wires on the brushes.

Older motors benefit and really need a better quality decoder, and a decoder that offers at least 1.0Amp motor running current. So ensure the chosen decoder has a normal running motor current rating of 1.0Amp or higher.

This should be the service sheet for this loco....http://www.modeltrains.net.au/hornby/service_sheet_details.asp?sheetid=151

Edit: Typos corrected

[poliss]

Is it the pre or post May 1961 chassis? http://www.modeltrains.net.au/hornby/it ... earid=3754

[pop]

Hi,I have a Hornby 4-6-2 "Princess Victoria" that i was hopeing to convert to dcc,on speaking to Hattons they said its not worth doing and buy a dcc ready
is this the case or can it be done,is it worth the hassle
Thanks

Always trying to sell you stuff eh

have you googled it? quite a lot of handty guides out there for DCCing your locos.

Think you are mixing me up with someone else

[pop]

Is it the pre or post May 1961 chassis? http://www.modeltrains.net.au/hornby/it ... earid=3754

sorry i have no idea,anything that would give its date away?

[pop]

Hi
Its a very old model with an XO4 or XO3 open framed motor.

These motors are fairly easy to convert. But before doing so, ensure the loco runs faultlessly on dc power. Any hesitancy to start or other poor performance MUST be resolved before converting. If you're unable to overcome any poor running issues do not convert as it will become far worse on DCC!

Looking at the top of the motor there is a Vee shaped spring with an insulated sleeve on one side. Remove the wire and its small connector that's behind the insulated brush side of the spring and cut off the connector. If there is any other comportments between the end of this wire and the wheel wipers, cut the wire on the wheel wiper side of the component and remove them. Connect to this wheel wiper wire the decoders red wire and cover the joint with heat shrink tubing or PVC tape.
Connect the decoders black wire to the screw that holds the Vee spring in place and re tighten the screw trapping decoder wire and spring together, or use the wiring tag if one is fitted under the screw that has had the old wires removed from.
Solder the decoders grey and orange wires to the tops of each brush. Position the decoder so as it is secure and cannot touch any metal chassis etc.

On the currently bare uninsulated side of the Vee spring slip a piece of insulating tube (cut from half of the insulation on the other side) or a piece of spare wires insulation so as both brushes are now totally insulated from the Vee spring.

Once you’re sure everything is correct, recheck the Vee spring is insulated on both sides from the motor brushes and the decoder is insulated too. Place the loco on the programming track and set its address. Test loco on main under its new address number. If the loco runs in the opposite direction from that shown on the console, swap over the grey and orange wires on the brushes.

Older motors benefit and really need a better quality decoder, and a decoder that offers at least 1.0Amp motor running current. So ensure the chosen decoder has a normal running motor current rating of 1.0Amp or higher.

This should be the service sheet for this loco....http://www.modeltrains.net.au/hornby/service_sheet_details.asp?sheetid=151

Edit: Typos corrected

This is fantastic,just what i need ,can you recommend a decoder to use i have a basic hornby controller,thanks

[hiffano]

Hi,I have a Hornby 4-6-2 "Princess Victoria" that i was hopeing to convert to dcc,on speaking to Hattons they said its not worth doing and buy a dcc ready
is this the case or can it be done,is it worth the hassle
Thanks

Always trying to sell you stuff eh

have you googled it? quite a lot of handty guides out there for DCCing your locos.

Think you are mixing me up with someone else

not quite sure how as i responded to your post. Google is a rather nifty search engine that would have helped you find (possibly) DCCing instructions for the loco in question. However Flashbang came to your rescue

[Flashbang]

<Snip>
This is fantastic, just what i need , can you recommend a decoder to use i have a basic hornby controller,thanks

Shame, as with the Select you can not adjust Cvs to get the best from the old loco/decoder combination!

If you're not planing to upgrade from the Select then a Bachmann 3 function will be ok. Or consider a Lenz Standard or something from the TCS range.

[poliss]

You'd have to open her up to see whether it was the pre or post May 61 model. The different service sheets are http://www.modeltrains.net.au/hornby/se ... heetid=150 and http://www.modeltrains.net.au/hornby/se ... heetid=151

[pop]

<Snip>
This is fantastic, just what i need , can you recommend a decoder to use i have a basic hornby controller,thanks

Shame, as with the Select you can not adjust Cvs to get the best from the old loco/decoder combination!

If you're not planing to upgrade from the Select then a Bachmann 3 function will be ok. Or consider a Lenz Standard or something from the TCS range.

We are new to model trains and have only just finished the track layout, the controller we won on ebay last night, so i was hopeing to get away with a basic level to see if me/my lad will get into it more and upgrade from there.
Thanks again for your help

[pop]

You'd have to open her up to see whether it was the pre or post May 61 model. The different service sheets are http://www.modeltrains.net.au/hornby/se ... heetid=150 and http://www.modeltrains.net.au/hornby/se ... heetid=151

The sheet with 151 at the end is the same as mine

[K9-70]

Hi Flashbang,
sorry i cant tell you much but under the plastic body is R50 there arnt any markings or numbers on the motor or frame(that i can see)
it does run fine, The motor drives the main center wheels on the loco(loco drive?)ive typed x04 in on the internet and the pics look the same as mine.
Any more help you could give would be great.
Thanks

Tri-ang R50/R30 1959/62 46205 Princess Victoria, BR lined black X04 Motor, Service sheets, 1, 4, & 5.
Flashbang's already given good advice on fitting a decoder to the locomotive.

K9-70