heljan class 14
heljan class 14
has anybody fitted a DCC chip into this model?? and how was it afterwards??
Re: heljan class 14
Yes, I've done two (Customer models brought in for chipping)
Its a fairly straightforward conversion, but I would recommend a smaller decoder such as a TCS M1 or MC2.
I have got a Bachmann 3-function chip in, but it is a squeeze and needs to be placed at an angle. A smaller chip, whilst more expensive, will reduce any potential frustration trying to get the bonnet back on!
They run nicely, provided the pickups are making good contact with the wheels (But that is the same for analogue running too!)
As a tip, when removing the cab, squeeze it gently between thumb and forefinger between the windscreens and the cab will slide off easily.
The bonnets just unclip.
Make sure you don't lose the horn cowls as these are loose.
I haven't had to alter any settings on either TCS or Bachmann chips to make it run well.
Gareth
Trains4U Ltd.
Peterborough
Its a fairly straightforward conversion, but I would recommend a smaller decoder such as a TCS M1 or MC2.
I have got a Bachmann 3-function chip in, but it is a squeeze and needs to be placed at an angle. A smaller chip, whilst more expensive, will reduce any potential frustration trying to get the bonnet back on!
They run nicely, provided the pickups are making good contact with the wheels (But that is the same for analogue running too!)
As a tip, when removing the cab, squeeze it gently between thumb and forefinger between the windscreens and the cab will slide off easily.
The bonnets just unclip.
Make sure you don't lose the horn cowls as these are loose.
I haven't had to alter any settings on either TCS or Bachmann chips to make it run well.
Gareth
Trains4U Ltd.
Peterborough
Re: heljan class 14
cheers for that, but i was asking because i had a 14 that when i fitted the chip, the lights worked but the motor didn't. turns out it was just mine, the pins between grey and black in the pcb socket had a short which it needs for DC anyway, so a DC user wouldn't have an issue. i was wanting to know whether this was a design fault on all of them or just me with a duffer before i rang hattons. as it happens they were great about it and did a straight swap for me even though i told them i had painted the pickups black already. anyways i'm 100% happy with the replacement, and i'm trying to find out what sound decoder and speaker would fit. there appears to be a milled recess for a 1/2 inch round speaker under the short bonnet?? you'd think they'd atleast put the speaker slot under the grill to let the sound out??
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Re: heljan class 14
locoworks wrote:has anybody fitted a DCC chip into this model?? and how was it afterwards??
Yes, full article (including fitting process) here: http://www.mrol.com.au/Articles/Rolling%20Stock/HeljanClass14.aspx
I fitted a TCS MC2, but I think an ESU Locsound would probably fit. The biggest challenge is where the speaker would go. There is indeed a round recess, but it looks too small to me for any speaker!
Unfortunately, sound doesn't seem to have reached Denmark yet because all Heljan locos seem to suffer from a lack of design suited for locating speakers!
Graham Plowman
Re: heljan class 14
Hi
Plenty of room for sound in the class 14 for a micro or lok 3.5. All you need to do is remove all the clutter and hardwire. If you remove the PCB board you have so much more room.


m
Plenty of room for sound in the class 14 for a micro or lok 3.5. All you need to do is remove all the clutter and hardwire. If you remove the PCB board you have so much more room.


m
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- Posts: 269
- Joined: Thu Mar 09, 2006 5:34 am
Re: heljan class 14
Does anyone (Howes, SWD etc) actually do a proper sound package for the class 14 yet ?
Graham Plowman
Graham Plowman
Re: heljan class 14
Martin71 wrote:Hi
Plenty of room for sound in the class 14 for a micro or lok 3.5. All you need to do is remove all the clutter and hardwire. If you remove the PCB board you have so much more room.
m
@gppsoftware, you can get a 1/2 inch round speaker, it is used in N stuff. the down side being where the recess is there is NO grill to let sound out.
doing as martin 71 has atleast lets you get the sound under the grill end. i was a bit concerned about removing the inbuild PCB, as the loco not only has directional lights, but also the headcodes which are on regardless of direction with lights on. i wasn't sure if the lights would wire direct to a decoder, or need a resistor that may be built into the PCB. also the wires are all red and black!! no clues as to what does what and the wires don't seem easy to trace their routes either. it looks like someone dropped a pot noodle under the bonnet. a nice exploded view/wiring diagram would be nice, and a what goes where regarding hardwiring to the decoder would a help also along with any resistor values if they are needed?
Re: heljan class 14
Hi
As to who has sound I dont know.....I am building my own from recording I have pick up.
I generally find stripping the loco to its bare shell (diesels especially) really helps but it depends on what you want to achieve. I want good quality sound so I will put in the biggest fully sealed speaker possible. If that means modifying the chassis to cater that what I will do.
By pulling out the PCB board you will need to add resistors to the lights about 1 k for the white LED's and 3-5k for the reds. As space is tight here I would use the 1/8 watt resistor
but you can get away with the 1/4 watt. I have not decided if I will put in 1 or 2 speakers yet but more than likely 2.
Anything is possible if you sit down and nut it out, even in n gauge.
Martin
As to who has sound I dont know.....I am building my own from recording I have pick up.
I generally find stripping the loco to its bare shell (diesels especially) really helps but it depends on what you want to achieve. I want good quality sound so I will put in the biggest fully sealed speaker possible. If that means modifying the chassis to cater that what I will do.
By pulling out the PCB board you will need to add resistors to the lights about 1 k for the white LED's and 3-5k for the reds. As space is tight here I would use the 1/8 watt resistor
but you can get away with the 1/4 watt. I have not decided if I will put in 1 or 2 speakers yet but more than likely 2.
Anything is possible if you sit down and nut it out, even in n gauge.
Martin
Re: heljan class 14
could you get away with ONE resistor of 1K on the blue wire to deal with the white lights as there are 4 of them and use individual resistors smaller than 3-5 on the reds to allow for the 1K already on the blue?? also, could the relevent red and white marker lights be wired in series??
Re: heljan class 14
Hi
Yes as long as they are all the same type of whites but on the neg leg of the red put a 3 k resistor as reds are voltage thief's. I always wire my LED's with a resistor in series on the neg leg.
No dont wire your leds in series keep it parallel....it is only 2 extra wires.
All the wiring is there on the lighting PCB boards, I only pulled out the main board and I think from memory their are also SMD resistors on those boards to protect the LED's but dont quote me on that.
m
Yes as long as they are all the same type of whites but on the neg leg of the red put a 3 k resistor as reds are voltage thief's. I always wire my LED's with a resistor in series on the neg leg.
No dont wire your leds in series keep it parallel....it is only 2 extra wires.
All the wiring is there on the lighting PCB boards, I only pulled out the main board and I think from memory their are also SMD resistors on those boards to protect the LED's but dont quote me on that.
m
Re: heljan class 14
looks like just movement and lights will be fine for my DCC for now then.
i will work my way up to the PIA of sound in it at a later date

Re: heljan class 14
UPDATE; this looks like just the ticket SDN144PS ( google it or go to the digitrax website ) lower profile plug and a 1/2 inch speaker that maight just drop into the hole milled under the short bonnet?? and add suitable sound files via a PR3. maybe happy days 

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