Goathland - Ed's Layout! UPDATED 23/03/10

Post pictures and information about your own personal model railway layout that is under construction. Keep members up-to-date with what you are doing and discuss problems that you are having.
edwardholmes91
Posts: 374
Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2007 10:57 pm
Location: Stone, Staffordhshire, England
Contact:

Postby edwardholmes91 » Thu Feb 14, 2008 12:52 pm

Hi folks

It is a long time since I have posted anything in my layout thread, much due to the fact that I haven't done much with it recently, up until now!

I have started to lay the track, done a little but of ballasting and done some point motors.

It is the points motors which take the time, and espicially with 18 of them to fit, but they are getting there, only 3 more to go now. I am fitting the track and the points motors at the same time, because if I fit the track, I only have to rermove it, before I fit the point motors, so once I have fitted a point motor, I fix the track in place then I move on to the next one and so on so forth.

I am just going to upload some pictures of the way that I found to be best to fit a points motor, bearing in mind that I have found this method to work best for me. I DO NOT accept ANY responcibility for any damage or misfunctioning caused by using this method.

Once the pictures are uploaded I will make a post regarding the fitting of the motors...

Edit: And what better place to start a new post on points motors!

edwardholmes91
Posts: 374
Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2007 10:57 pm
Location: Stone, Staffordhshire, England
Contact:

How I fit my point motors

Postby edwardholmes91 » Thu Feb 14, 2008 3:34 pm

This is the way that I have found to work best for fitting point motors, as said in previous post, this is what works best for me.

Just to avoid any confusion, my baseboard is 12mm MDF and 4mm fine sanded cork tiles, the following method replies on this kind of baseboard, however you are quite welcome to adapt the idea to suit your layout board.

So here goes:

Firstly, mark where the sliding bar mechanism goes:

Image

Then remove the point and any surrounding trackwork, marking either side of the rails in 2 or more places, draw two lines, down the centre of your marks, it should look like this:

Image

You should now have two points at which the lines cross, drill this with about a 3mm piolet hole:

Image

It should look like this when they are drilled:

Image

Now drill the hole out bigger, using a 22mm flat chisel drill bit, to make an "8" shaped hole:

Image

Now clean up the sawdust, otherwise it may get in the point mechanism or motor and cause it to fail:

Image

Once you have done this, cut hole out using jigsaw:

Image

The hole should now look like this:

Image

Cut a piece of spare cork to 33 by 50mm:

Image

Place the piece ontop of the hole, centre it and draw round it:

Image

Cut round the marked out box with a craft knife or similar:

Image

Chisel out the cork so that you are left with a lip all the way around the hole:

Image

Once you have cleaned the hole, it should look like this, dont press on to hard otherwise you will remove some of the MDF and it will spoil the final finish:

Image

Place into the hole to check that it fits properly, you can always cut the cork a little smaller, or the hole a bit bigger, then remark the line which you drew to start off with:

Image

Now you can drill some holes in the centre of the cork cutout using the small 3mm piolet drill, if you like you can use a knife or the chisel to make the slot nice and crisp:

Image

Hold the point motor up to the piece of cork and mark out the metal spikes, it is important that you get this bit right:

Image

Drill four holes where you have marked the point motor, using the 3mm piolet drill, and posistion in hole:

Image

Now align the point motor to the cork, push through the holes and line the point up to the motor lugs, check this it operates properly and offer up to hole, you must ensure that the central pin is pushed into the holes in the sliding bar mechanism of the point:

Image

Finally push into posistion making sure that the cork sits flush, wire it up, test it, if all works well, pin the surrounding track down and the point:

Image

Wola, there you have it! :)

User avatar
TOM M
Posts: 135
Joined: Mon Nov 26, 2007 11:33 am
Location: durham

Postby TOM M » Thu Feb 14, 2008 7:31 pm

:D thats a very detailed way and :D very helpful
my layout
viewtopic.php?t=11560
i must admit i did it

User avatar
Raider
Posts: 1102
Joined: Sun Oct 09, 2005 12:55 am
Location: Wolverhampton
Contact:

Postby Raider » Thu Feb 14, 2008 7:33 pm

That would make an interesting article - any chance you could re-post it in the website articles section?

edwardholmes91
Posts: 374
Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2007 10:57 pm
Location: Stone, Staffordhshire, England
Contact:

Postby edwardholmes91 » Thu Feb 14, 2008 9:30 pm

Raider wrote:That would make an interesting article - any chance you could re-post it in the website articles section?


Yes sure, no problem! :)

edwardholmes91
Posts: 374
Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2007 10:57 pm
Location: Stone, Staffordhshire, England
Contact:

Postby edwardholmes91 » Thu Feb 14, 2008 9:36 pm

TOM M wrote::D thats a very detailed way and :D very helpful

I am glad to have been a help. Please do feel free to comment!

User avatar
SouthernBoy
Posts: 1753
Joined: Sun Oct 08, 2006 11:01 pm
Location: The past: We do things differently there

Postby SouthernBoy » Thu Feb 14, 2008 10:48 pm

Comment ? ... One of the best 'How-To' descriptions I've seen in a long time. It's going to be a huge help to many people now and in the future. Thanks for taking the time to chronicle and post this.

edwardholmes91
Posts: 374
Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2007 10:57 pm
Location: Stone, Staffordhshire, England
Contact:

Buffer Stop Lights

Postby edwardholmes91 » Tue Feb 19, 2008 10:58 pm

Hi

I have been playing around with some hydaurlic buffers and have been able to fit an LED into some of them, I will post a step by step guide when I get the chance. :D

User avatar
Lewis Nash
Posts: 389
Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2008 12:31 am
Location: Working on Arpley Street

Re: Goathland - Ed's Layout!

Postby Lewis Nash » Sat May 10, 2008 10:00 am

£65 on point motor switches! :shock:
you could have bought toggle switches? :)
NASHTON
website- http://nashton.webs.com/index.htm


ARPLEY STREET
http://arpleystreetmodelrailway.webs.com/
class 60 preservation group-http://www.c60pg.co.uk/
Lewis[ArpleyModeller]

edwardholmes91
Posts: 374
Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2007 10:57 pm
Location: Stone, Staffordhshire, England
Contact:

Re: Goathland - Ed's Layout!

Postby edwardholmes91 » Tue May 13, 2008 9:20 pm

I know, but you need to buy SPDT biased centre stabilising ones, then you don't know which whay the point is facing, uness you use SPDT normal switches without centre stable and a capacitor discharge unit, and the wiring soon becomes very complex! Plus with the point motor switches, they look like authentic switch frames or whatever they were called in signal boxes.

edwardholmes91
Posts: 374
Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2007 10:57 pm
Location: Stone, Staffordhshire, England
Contact:

Re: Goathland - Ed's Layout!

Postby edwardholmes91 » Sat May 17, 2008 8:08 pm

Hi guys, I have just managed to get some pictures uploaded of the Skaledale buildings that I bought from another forum member:

It arrived Friday 16th May 2008 in the morning:

Image

...and very well packaged I must say!

Image

The next few photos show the buildings themselves, I took a front and back view of each of them, this is the front view of the Cottage:

Image

This is the back view of the Cottage:

Image

This is the front view of the House:

Image

This is the back view of the House:

Image

This is the front view of the Kings Head Pub:

Image

This is the back view of the Kings Head Pub:

Image

If anyone knows the proper names of these Skaledale buildings please let me know, they are from the 2003 range if this helps?
Last edited by edwardholmes91 on Sat May 17, 2008 10:38 pm, edited 2 times in total.

User avatar
jweighell
Posts: 33
Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2007 9:39 am
Location: Devon

Re: Goathland - Ed's Layout!

Postby jweighell » Sat May 17, 2008 8:16 pm

Nice buildings!

Not sure I'd go around posting my full address on public forums though?! And the senders full address!

edwardholmes91
Posts: 374
Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2007 10:57 pm
Location: Stone, Staffordhshire, England
Contact:

Re: Goathland - Ed's Layout!

Postby edwardholmes91 » Sat May 17, 2008 10:40 pm

jweighell wrote:Nice buildings!

Not sure I'd go around posting my full address on public forums though?! And the senders full address!

Good point, fixed! :)

edwardholmes91
Posts: 374
Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2007 10:57 pm
Location: Stone, Staffordhshire, England
Contact:

Re: Goathland - Ed's Layout!

Postby edwardholmes91 » Sun May 18, 2008 10:28 pm

Hi folks

Just a quick update before I go to bed, again not much activity has been hapening with the layout recently, all locos and buildings etc. are boxed up and packed away to risk them getting damaged while the loft was tidied. I have my AS exams well under way now and after that I start straight on with my A2 work :( At least I will have the summer holidays to do some work on the layout, but even then, the coursework in ICT is piled on, because they want us to have it nearing completion before we go back in September!

Will keep you updated as things progess slowly! And as promised I will write a little article on how to light hydraulic buffer stops. Along with the article on point indication panel.

edwardholmes91
Posts: 374
Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2007 10:57 pm
Location: Stone, Staffordhshire, England
Contact:

My Control Panel/Signal Box

Postby edwardholmes91 » Mon Aug 18, 2008 3:41 pm

Right, finally as promised for months! Here are some pictures of the control panel, unfortunately I didn't take many of making the panel, sorry :(

This is a picture of the control panel when it is electrically complete but not asthetically! The red flashing LEDs along the bottom edge indicate which lever to opperate on the lever frame. The sub miniture push buttons opperate each individual red flashing LED along the bottom. Then the rotary switches have 4 posistions each, each one controls one track (left controlling outside track, middle controlling middle track and right controlling inside track). The four posistions are "Off", "Red Controller", "Blue Controller" and finally "Green Controller". The three clear LEDs are called "Full Colour" because they have a red a green and a blue LED inside them, so 7 different colours can be made. These light up the appropiate colour for which controller the track it is next to is controlled by. Hope I havent confused anyone too much so far! Picture follows which should clear up any querys:

Image

This is the inside wiring of the control box, please dont ask me what every wire does! I know it looks right mess, but you try doing it any better! I know exactly what every single wire does because they are colour coded! And some are numbered!

Image

This is a closeup of the rotary switches wiring:

Image

Close up of cable retention system!

Image

Input cables for the control box, one for each controller, posistive being the sleeved one and each controller being a differnt colour each has a different colour sleeve!

Image

This is the control shelf, it houses the controllers, the level frame I mentioned earlier and the control box. Notice I have put a better cover on the panel, printed acetate, laminated and secured around the edges and held on with the nuts of the various components!

Image

Underneath baseboard, you can see both input and output cables feeding to control box, lever frame and controllers!

Image

And finally the power connection to the box. I was able to buy the male version of the connector on the power supply, molex connector I think?

Image

Hope you enjoy, any questions, comments, constructive critisism please dont hesitate to ask.
Last edited by edwardholmes91 on Thu Jul 02, 2009 1:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.


Return to “Personal Layouts - Under Construction”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 10 guests