Llwyndrissi Halt.

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Mountain
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Mountain » Mon Oct 23, 2017 3:23 pm

I've finally done it! That is the trackwork built on the first two boards. OK, wiring and point mechanisms to go before I get to play trains! :lol:
I removed the excess resin from the centre of the diamond crossing. (Of corse, I needed to make sure I didnt remove the bits which I needed the resin for in the first place). It will need painting, as will all the trackwork unless prototype sleepers were made out of copper!
I used separate flux today for the first time and it is much easier. Had I known I wouldn't have had much better soldering results, as after flux is applied, it takes much less time to heat the rails before the solder melts to it.
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Mountain
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Mountain » Mon Oct 23, 2017 3:33 pm

Dave wrote:
Mountain wrote: OK, wiring and point mechanisms to go before I get to play trains! :lol:

I hope it works after all that work :lol:

So do I. :lol:

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Mountain
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Mountain » Wed Oct 25, 2017 11:19 pm

While I would like to make a lovely lever frame to control points and signals, this is not really needed. Instead, what is needed is a method of control that is simple, reliable and cheap to build, so after some thought I'm concentrating my efforts on this principle. (See picture).
Basically, a spring returns the point to one position. It does not have to directly be linked to the point, as it could be a distance via a fishing line link and even via a wheel for confined spaces where direction change is needed. The wire link can be string or fishing wire. Fishing wire is strong and smooth so should be the better material to use. Head down to your local beach and you may find some washed up. You dont need a lot.
The wheels dont even have to be wheels. They are there as a pivot point to change the angle of the pull, so they could be screws. A wheel is better as there is less friction so the fishing wire will last longer. The actual wire loop acting as the controlled part by the user is simply looped over one of those plastic drawing pin things for notice boards that sits taller. The second spring may not be needed and is just to take up any slack and allow a bit of "Give" in the system.
I hope this method may help someone. It is surprising how simply and cheaply one can control points as long as the distance isn't too far from your control panel that it has too much friction to be worth operating.
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Mountain
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Mountain » Fri Oct 27, 2017 12:49 am

One of the things I've noticed with this hobby is I like looking at what others are building. The only thing is, that I tend to think "I would have done this or that, and I wouldn't have done that..." when it is the individual owner decision as to how things are done.
In a way I guess we all do that! I'm the first to give advice, but as we all come at this hobby from different angles of perspective, while most of my methods work, it may not give the results that the individual is hoping for.
Now my current layout has a very different approach to it then most modellers have, and even has a different approach thay many 7mm narrow gauge modellers have. Actually, my approach is very different to how I used to model in 00 gauge.
These criteria come to mind about my current modelling on this little layout.
Very tight budget but time is less of an issue. So I'd rather spend a whole days work building a point (Turnout) then buying one with funds I dont have.
Consistency. I read a long time ago about consistancy. The lack of consistancy in my 00 gauge modelling when such lovely amazingly detailed models arrived on the scene rather spoilt the overall look when I was not able to build model building kits or other items to the same standards. Yet if my locos and rolling stock went down a peg, what I build myself will match the overall consistancy of any layout I build. Hence with my 0-16.5 layout, if I build everything myself, everything has the same standards of consistancy and in theory, should paint a good 3D picture of an imaginary place which has a realistic character to it.
Consider a painting. If the painting is crudely painted, but still has consistancy, it makes sense to an overall scene. If it is highly detailed throughout, it also makes sense, but if one has a painting where some of it is highly detailed and other areas are rather crude in the same painting, then it is very hard to get a feel of character and scene of a picture an artist is attempting to portray.

Other elements I want to bring in to the character of my little railway. I want an element of realistic operation but without things being boring to watch. I for one, hate watching model express trains crawl through scenery at slow "Scale" speed but it adds no character to the train being pulled in model form. I'd rather see the express run flat out at warp speed. At least it will then feel like an express and capture a vivid sense of what an express loco is in the minds of any viewing public.
Likewize, if I see a little shunting loco zoom through at express speeds, this looks just as bad as an express loco crawl through with a non stopping express.
Another aspect I feel we can add a sense of realism is to couple and uncouple in a manual way, if the prototype uncoupled and coupled in this way. I dont mean needing a microscopic needle to operate N gauge scale 3 link couplings! If someone wants to try this, be my guest! :D I mean that to uncouple and couple automatically with no visible little man at the scene acting as a shunter, it just looks odd. A little man with an extended uncoupling pole all the way up via a wire to the operator may be the answer. I've yet to try something like this myself to see if it is a success and looks the part or not, or would it be better that if an automatic coupling is used, if one had a man at the scene of a magnet so it looks like he has done something, this maybe a fair answer to some.

Which elements I will eventually adopt on my little layout depends on how things work out. The tight budget concept along with the aim of making what I can will remain. Character is as important as realism.

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Mountain
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Mountain » Fri Oct 27, 2017 5:45 pm

While I've had the layout out to glue a pair of wobbly legs which the wood glue didnt seem to work on, (I've now used cheap superglue! Seems to work.) I've taken the opportunity to update photographs to the current trackplan, as my last set of pictures of the layout are now somewhat dated.
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Mountain
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Mountain » Sat Oct 28, 2017 1:56 pm

Scratchbuilding materials...
How's this ready for a barn or shed roof?
All it is is corrugated tin can (Edges rounded off for safety) that has been left outside for a couple of months. Things rust well here. I may as well put it to good use! :mrgreen:
The area that is rust free is where the glue was applied that held the paper label.
If you live inland or lower down near the sea, then you may need some extra help to rust your tin. The easiest way it to scratch the surface of the tin with something abrasive, and then rub some salt into it, or pour salty water onto it, and then leave it outside for a month or two. Here it is a case that I dont really need to add salt as we are on a hill near the sea so are drenched in salty mists.
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mumbles
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby mumbles » Sat Oct 28, 2017 1:59 pm

Or an Anderson shelter?

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Mountain
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Mountain » Sat Oct 28, 2017 2:03 pm

Yes. That would work as well. :D

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Mountain
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Mountain » Sat Oct 28, 2017 4:59 pm

Anyone working in tinplate, I found a series on YouTube that gives some good ideas and advice. Type in "Tinplate Girl" on YouTube to watch.
I thought I'd also show pictures of how my layout legs work as it may be of interest to some. Both boards legs work on the same principle but I will show pics of the one with legs opened up as it is simpler to understand. As can be seen, the main board legs are at both ends so neededmore thought when closed up, and they also have had the outrigging legs redesigned (Shortened) so my feet didnt keep knocking into them when I sat at the layout. The design principles remain the same.
Also, I've added a photo to show how the two boards are joined together. Is the old method of a hinge with the hinge pin replaced by a nail, or in my case, a piece of fence wire suitably bent at the top, flattened and drilled to accept a little chain.
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Mountain
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Mountain » Sat Oct 28, 2017 8:06 pm

The next job done is fitting point springs prior to rigging up the fishing wire. These springs pull the point blades in one direction, and the fishing wire will pull the point blades in the other direction. So far all is going good! :D :lol:
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Mountain
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Mountain » Sat Oct 28, 2017 10:06 pm

Tried taking photographs of more progress. I've been converting little wheels I had previously cast from resin into point control use, so out came the lathe and when the wheels were on the bicycle spoke spindle that I had previously drilled the wheel centres to accept, I turned the lathe on and used my junior hacksaw to cut a slot in the wheel so the fishing wire has a guide to keep it in position. You do not need a lathe to turn wheels. A minidrill can perform the same task. It just makes things easier.
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mumbles
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby mumbles » Sat Oct 28, 2017 10:19 pm

Looking good. I'm really looking forward to how that track will look once you've added scenics. Its going to be fantastic I'm sure

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Mountain
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Mountain » Sat Oct 28, 2017 11:25 pm

May take a while as I'm going slowly with it. Just adding a picture or three of how I get from a resin casting I had made earlier to a wheel with a groove that I can use for point or signal use.
As turning resin has issues using the standard lathe tool as swarf build up suddenly jams and tears chunks out of the part being turned. I believe the issues are with the material being softer then metal. My answer to turning the backs of the wheels to have a flatter surface is to run a file on the back while the part is in the lathe, and cutting the grove via a junior hacksaw while the part is turning also works well, and it does not cause the same issues as the lathe tool does.
After filing the backs and before the slots are cut, I drill out the centre of the wheels, which are needed because not only do I need centres but I need to mount them on a bicycle spoke spindle so that the part can be mounted for cutting the slot in it.
Be aware that the processes can be done on a minidrill if necessary. The only difficulty of using a minidrill is to drill the hole centres out as this maybe tricky. The lathe with a drill bit mounted in the tailstock is the ideal tool for doing this as as long as the part is more Ted well and the drill bit is straight, it is usually accurate. Having said that, for this type of work, it does not need to be dead on centre as it is only to angle the pulling direction of some fishing line.... A minidrill will work fine as all the wheel has to do is turn on a track pin as an axle.
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Mountain
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Mountain » Mon Oct 30, 2017 11:50 am

The next project is something interesting. Here are some pictures of the work so far..
It involves flattening Peco code 100 rail, cutting and drilling pieces of metal...
Any ideas what I'm making yet? I hope it works as it is still an experiment to see if the materials I'm using can end up with the item I'm hoping to build! :lol:
[Just to amend the design a little, I've drilled more holes slightly higher in the Π section metal since the last photo as I decided the other holes were mounted too low down, and the holes may end up being larger. First PIC should be last to show this in order].
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TimberSurf
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby TimberSurf » Mon Oct 30, 2017 12:38 pm

Point lever frame?
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