Llwyndrissi Halt.

Post pictures and information about your own personal model railway layout that is under construction. Keep members up-to-date with what you are doing and discuss problems that you are having.
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Mountain
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Mountain » Wed Oct 18, 2017 11:25 am

luckymucklebackit wrote:That is some very impressive soldering work there. Really like what you have done.

JIm

You may not say that if you saw my soldering close up... :lol: :lol: :lol:

Dad-1 wrote:I always fancied making some track with a long check rail curve.
Not done anything to need it, but great to see someone diving in
and making it.

Geoff T.

Is a good idea to buy sleepers ready made if one is modelling in 00 gauge as they will be very thin to try and cut from a sheet of PCB. I can get away with making my own as I'm in a larger scale as they dont look too bad, though really mine are overscale but look good. I wanted more space between sleepers then normal 0-16.5 track has.

Also, with the transition between standard Peco or Hornby track and handmade track needs a piece of card inserted as a spacer under the PCB sleeper as they are thinner and if one tries to solder the rail to PCB, they may not be touching the sleeper in a flat position. The card is removed after soldering. (Of corse be careful with heat on card!)

For 00 gauge, what I did with code 100 Peco track was to get a rail from a length which had sleepers which were past it, and use the rail glued onto my curves for check rails. The gap may be slightly larger in the check rail then required but I was happy with it. (I dont remember how wide the gap was as I was a youngster when I made it so my standards may not have been so high).

Dad-1
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Dad-1 » Wed Oct 18, 2017 12:25 pm

I also used reclaimed code 100 rail from some damaged sleeper lengths I picked up from
a friend. I cut the PCB lengths with a slitting disc. My sleepers were put in to best match
those on a Hornby point I'd used as the prototype to follow.

viewtopic.php?f=49&t=46675&start=330#p603687

It was just an exercise and worked O.K, always nice to try out things you've not done before.
To solder on a check rail without filing some metal off the flat bottom sides would probably
leave too much of a gap. I just about got away with it on the point.

Keep up the good work.

Geoff T.
Remember ... I know nothing about railways.
viewtopic.php?f=22&t=32187 and Another on viewtopic.php?f=22&t=28436&start=60&st=0&sk=t&sd=a

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Mountain
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Mountain » Wed Oct 18, 2017 2:04 pm

Just seen it Dad1.Very good work indeed.

I'm taking a break from cutting as my overload cut out went on the drills transformer letting me know it needs a rest. :D
I've done about a third of the cuts. I did have one little internal check rail come away so out came the superglue! I think the copper surface had come away from the fibre base on it. What I'm doing now to ensure everything stays in place after each cut. I'm making sure any metal fragments are removed first and squirting in a dab of superglue so all stays in place before the next cut, as the crossing is basically being dissected into fragmented sections to isolate prior to the resin being poured in. All should work out in the end! :lol:
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Mountain
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Mountain » Wed Oct 18, 2017 3:03 pm

Just finished all the cuts. It is a bit of a nervous job to do as one has to go easy with the disc and try to cut from right to left (Due to drill rotation) to prevent the drill from suddenly "Catching" in the work. One needs to hold the drill in such a way that one will not bend the disc if it grabs, but at the same time not cut too fearce into the work. So it is held firmly in one direction ensuring one cuts straight rather then arked (Which could break the disc) and being ready for when the disc suddenly grabs so the disc does not shatter. These discs are suseptable to break if one gets the angles wrong and when they break they fly across the room at warp speed!
I always wear eye protection and I dont look down from above the disc, as even with eye protection I wouldn't want it to hit my face if it breaks!
Next job...Out comes the playdough and then comes some resin!
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Mountain
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Mountain » Wed Oct 18, 2017 10:18 pm

Hey, that's really good Dave. Do you still have it? Its not easy to make out the scale and gauge from the pics. 7mm scale with 9 or 12 mm gauge track width? Or is it 4 mm scale and 9mm gauge track? I like the scenery.

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Mountain
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Mountain » Wed Oct 18, 2017 10:37 pm

More progress on the crossing.
First, out came the playdough and after enjoying the smell :D I started to place playdough around and on the diamond crossing so that when poured, the liquid resin will be confined to the area of the diamond crossing and not go anywhere else! The resin I have is from a Sylmasta resin casting kit and it has really been worth the investment! I have cast so many different items from the resin. I also made two moulds from the rubber moulding compound which I always have handy as whenever I cast resin I always have more resin then I need, so I just pour any excess into the rubber moulds.
The resin parts A and B are poured in 50/50 equal amounts and mixed together. I used a medical type plastic measuring spoon as the easiest method for this and I poured 2.5ml of each part so the most I had was 5ml. This is more then enough as resin always goes a long way compared to the little amount one has mixed. The resin has to be mixed fairly quickly (Within four minutes or less) though there's no panic as it does not take long to mix, unless one has used the whole lot in one go! :D Seriously though, you only need a small amount!
Within about ten to fifteen minutes from pouring the resin changes from a light brown liquid to a nice white solid. Though if I cast in a rubber mould I could remove the resin part in about 20 - 30 minutes the part needs about an hour or two (I leave it two) before it can be worked on as it starts off soft and bendy and hardens in time. It is surprising really how quick the process actually is.
I'm now patiently waiting to allow time for the resin to go hard enough to work, so for now you can look at these pictures! :D
[Note. The pictures came out in reverse order from the casting process so start from the bottom picture and look up!]
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Mountain
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Mountain » Thu Oct 19, 2017 12:10 am

Well, apart from wiring up the electrical dropper wires along with making it look better cosmetically, the diamond crossing is finished. I have decided to leave the resin bit in the centre as it adds strength. I could gently grind the centre to lower the surface a little if I wanted to, but for now I'm happy as it is.
The resin no longer looks white as I started filing and sanding it down as fragments of playdough and dirt from the sanding bit and the files and especially the final polishing out imperfections using a Hornby rail cleaning rubber, so it has a new colour to it.
All I need to do now is wire it up and hope the various parts are isolated so no current goes where it isn't supposed to go, and it is good to use.
On testing with my mini skip waggon, the thing really behaved itself when running over the crossing. I am impressed!
Now let's hope I can load a few pictures up so you can see them the right way round this time! :lol:
I hope you all like it!
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Mountain
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Mountain » Thu Oct 19, 2017 11:30 am

Very neat soldering there. Surprised me it was 16.5mm as it looked narrower then that.
I think it is good if you can build another as your last creation really looked good. :)

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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Mountain » Thu Oct 19, 2017 3:46 pm

Very good indeed. Wow, those curves are sharp! I think even my locos wouldn't turn those curves! :lol: my layout started out as 2ft x 3½ft but I found it just a bit too small for me, so I made a second board which almost doubles the length to just under 7ft and I'm happier with it. I like to play with passing loops and sidings. Hence I've also made the diamond crossing to allow the possibility of a third board, though for home convenience I want it be able to operate with just the two boards.

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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Mountain » Thu Oct 19, 2017 4:04 pm

Ooh. They had a lot of that which some is still embedded in concrete on the old ROF at Pembrey. The area is now a country park with its nearby beach. They had two gauges. 4'8½" (Standard gauge) and the narrow gauge which when measured is 1'11½" (Just shy of 2ft) which seemed to be the most popular gauge for MOD narrow gauge railways due to WW1 trench use etc. The narrow gauge track used in Pembrey was clearly layed from sectional pieces which had metal sleepers welded to keep the gauge as a complete portable track sections. Due to its requirements the track here was encased in concrete so if any explosive accident should occur it was less likely to halt the production line which the railways were a key feature.

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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby mumbles » Thu Oct 19, 2017 10:15 pm

Dave wrote:
Mountain wrote:Hey, that's really good Dave. Do you still have it? Its not easy to make out the scale and gauge from the pics. 7mm scale with 9 or 12 mm gauge track width? Or is it 4 mm scale and 9mm gauge track? I like the scenery.

I am afraid it never got completed, it was broken up during a house move.

It was 7mm scale with 16.5 track, code 75 rail soldered direct to PCB strip, the 2 points in the scenic section were heavily modified Peco with all the sleepers replaced but the working mechanism left intact.

14-05-30-03.jpg

That is a great idea Dave and has got me thinking. Nice one

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Mountain
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Mountain » Thu Oct 19, 2017 10:41 pm

An idea is to use code 100 for the main running lines and switch to code 75 for light tramway type connecting lines. That is a plan I have. I have some lengths of something close to code 75 via broken SMP flexible track.
Also with the lighter code 75 rail for tramway connections, I have an excuse to model the simply made single bladed points.

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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Mountain » Sun Oct 22, 2017 1:55 pm

Work commencing... Going to cut meself some sleepers, hence the copper topped PCB board nailed to the layout which holds it while using the cutting disc.
Today's plan is to build some track to join the point to the diamond crossing!
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Mountain
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Mountain » Sun Oct 22, 2017 6:34 pm

Just a brief note on track cutting, especially for anyone who is not sure about how easy it is to cut flexible track. For most cuts using a rail cutting shears like my Xuron in the picture is more then adequate. The rail ends may need filing slightly to accept rail joiners (Fishplates) but apart from that they work fine.
There are occasions though where one needs good accuracy where it comes to rail length. For example, if one is laying the second track of a run round loop where the second track needs to be a more accurate length, so I enclose a method to show how I cut such track to the right size. First one piece of track is brought to overlap the other coming from the other direction. In my case, they come side by side, but in some cases it may be one on top of the other. Pin the track down if possible so it won't move. In my picture, I should really try to pin the track down by bringing the sleepers closer to the ends for extra support while cutting. I then use my minidrill with a carbodium type of cutting disc. This is more of a thin grinding disc. Always wear eye protection when doing this. Cutting through both rails on each side at the same time should give you a very accurate rail length so both tracks will line up right.
I hope this may help someone who may not know how things are done. While there are other methods, this is the way I do it and it works well for me.
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Mountain
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Mountain » Sun Oct 22, 2017 11:45 pm

Not done a lot but I'm still moving forward slowly! Ran out of my nice solder and now I'm on the £1 solder. It does contain lead but I think it may lack flux as it does not seem to flow so well. I do have separate flux. Never tried it before. I may give it a try. Seems dangerous stuff as there seem to be umpteen warnings in the smallprint on the packet! Probably why I've not tried it before! :lol:


One thing I will mention about 7mm narrow gauge modelling, is since I started in this scale and gauge, I've done so many new things I've not tried before. For example, I've totally scratchbuilt waggons and a coach, I've kit bashed and RTR bashed (Though I've RTR bashed before in 00 scale). I've made my own name and number plates. I've totally transformed an old Triang chassis using modern running gear. I've built resin kits which I've not tried previously. Was also in this scale my first ever loco kit which is designed as a running model. OK it was a body kit, but my only previous attempt was an Airfix static kit of an 9F. I've made my own track and pointwork, and though in the past I made a very rough 00 gauge diamond crossing (Very roughly cut rails glued onto hardboard was my first attempt when I was in my late teens I think it was), this is my first "Proper" job at doing it. I've built my first portable board for a layout as previous boards were fixed to walls etc... Also made my first parts from a resin casting kit...
So for me though I've been a modeller for a long time, I've had so many firsts I'd not tried before that the journey has been a really fulfilling and exciting one.
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