St. Blazey's - My first layout - Stage 3 Building

[TimberSurf]

Interesting query!

Opaque - not able to be seen through; not transparent.

Translucent - allowing light, but not detailed shapes, to pass through; semi-transparent.

Dictionary makes it more confusing! The technical term in the glass industry is:-

Obscured - keep from being seen; conceal.

Obscuration glass is too difficult to say, so Window companies call it Privacy glass

Grandma calls it frosted!

As mentioned, paper, tracing paper and even tissue (great for net curtain simulation) will work, but be warned, they all turn yellow after some years!

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Grandma calls it frosted!

Me too.
Thanks
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I'm almost ready to start adding the windows. I have a large cut up milk bottle for the frosted windows and have had an idea but not sure it will work.

I have an idea to place some clear acetate like plastic over the milk bottle peice I will use, to make it seem glass-like / shiny on the outside.
What I'm not sure of is what glue to use to stick the plastic together and to the plaster (now painted) inside wall.
I have UHU and gorrila super glue (which sets quite quickly giving little time for repositioning). Are any of these ok to use?
I don't want to stick the plastic together if I can help it so it doesn't show.
I'd rather glue both plastics at the edge gluing to the wall at the same time.
Thanks
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[Pete]

Grandma calls it frosted!

Not just Grandma, you just need to look in the right technical dictionary

"Frosting

The process of giving a glass surface a matt finish, thus reducing transparency. Frosting may be by means of acid treatment (pouring hydrofluoric acid onto the glass), sandblasting, special glue application and subsequent removal, or mechanical etching with a grinding wheel."

I'm going to labour the tracing paper point, I buy cheap pads in the Works or similar discount stationars, it's quite stiff, but you could stick it to a plastic backing too (I use UHU). I've never known it go yellow... but who knows after time.

You can see where I've used it on this little stopping point (N Gauge):



Of course you could achieve a true frosted look by sanding your clear plastic, a bit of fine wet and dry would do the trick.



Pete

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I managed to pick up another Gorilla glue "Brush and nozzle" tube at the weekend which I've used to stick the windows in.
Using the brush is so much easier to get the glue where you want it. Although in my station building some of the "rooms" are so small I managed to get some glue on the windows.

I haven't fitted all the windows yet but as they were drying I started on the lighting rig so I could do 2 jobs at the same time.
Now the lighting rig is complete with 6 LED's and lampshades, ceiling painted and fits snugly inside.
I'll add some pictures once I've taken some.
Thanks
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Here is where I am upto now.
Platform side - Lit

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Road side - Lit

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The lighting rig is made out of balsa wood and here it is in position.

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The lighting rig pulled out so you can see the underneath

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I always try to make my lighting rigs removeable just in case something goes wrong or I wish to change anything.
This lighting rig can simply be lifted out including the wiring that feeds it.
More to follow.....

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Just a couple more showing how the wires go through the building.
I added the card upright so the wires cannot be seen through the windows and fed the wiring down and out through a hole in the bottom of the station.

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The lights may look a little dim but they are only running off a 9v battery in the pictures. They will eventually be connected to my 12v lighting bus so hopefully will run a little brighter.

Once all the windows have been fitted I can then move onto decorating the inside with furniture, people and notices/artwork.
Thanks
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I changed my mind on the floor and ceiling colour last night.
The darker grey of the floor was changed to a lighter grey and the cream of the ceiling was painted over white.
Hopefully this will help bounce the light around slightly more.

Book(ing hall) em Danno!
Thanks
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