St. Blazey's - My first layout - Stage 3 Building

Post pictures and information about your own personal model railway layout that is under construction. Keep members up-to-date with what you are doing and discuss problems that you are having.
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End2end
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Re: St. Blazey's - My first layout - Stage 3 Building

Postby End2end » Tue Apr 24, 2018 1:48 pm

I have been asking around those I know for a spinning laser level without success yet although my wood has not arrived.
I spoke with my free wood man at the weekend just to iron out some anomolies in the cutting list so hopefully the wood and the weather to build outside will come soon.
Apart from that no modelling has been done as my studio pc's hard drive has failed. Although I have installed a new one, the studio pc runs on XP so trying to get it back online is being a nightmare. If I cannot do it, it means over £1000 upgrade to some of the major componants which I just don't have the cash for right now. It would have to happen when I'm halfway through the currect production. :evil:
And to top it off one of my record needles has just gone lady parts ascended! (T*ts up) :evil:

I've walked away from it all at the moment as it's driving me to vexation.

On a brighter note, I finally used my Christmas gift of a ride on the Spa Valley Railway. A "there and back" from Tunbridge Wells to Groombridge and back. It was during the week so not many passengers and a pleasent jaunt through the countryside. :)
We also took a walk around some of Tunbridge Wells. Some lovely old architecture around the place.
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Re: St. Blazey's - My first layout - Stage 3 Building

Postby End2end » Fri May 25, 2018 2:33 pm

Happy GDPR day to all. :mrgreen:
Nothing much going on at the moment although I did manage to get hold of a couple more Dapol WCHASS10 chassis's and have now replaced the broken one on one of my limited edition Cornwall wagons.
I'm still waiting on wood and have yet to rewire/resolder the offending wire sitting too high to fit the roof back on properly on my Intercity coaches.
viewtopic.php?f=49&t=51555&start=60#p646038
I have an idea to loosely wire up another resisitor to see what the brightness level looks like with 2 resisitors. As metioned by Timbersurf... they are a little too bright.
This may also help the light bleed although another idea is to mask off certain areas inside the coach body and paint them black. My usual technique to stop light bleed.
This would mean quite some dismantling of both coaches though. :?

I also tweaked my Triang track cleaner - viewtopic.php?f=10&t=51867#p650785
Thats all for now.
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Re: St. Blazey's - My first layout - Stage 3 Building

Postby End2end » Mon Jun 04, 2018 10:00 am

I finally took the plunge last night and purchased my stone Scalecast / Linka platform moulds as I had recieved an email from them with 20% off and also some casting powder at the same time and together with the 20% off they only came to £29.50, so £4 off. :)
I'm waiting on some Woodland Scenics HL657 Hob-E-Lube White Grease for my Tolgus Tin loco (amongst others) to arrive so it will give me something I can do today.
Free wood still not arrived.

Waiting under the water tank...filling er' up
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Re: St. Blazey's - My first layout - Stage 3 Building

Postby End2end » Wed Jun 06, 2018 12:04 pm

Well the Scalecast platform moulds turned up today. WRONG blooming ones! :roll:
You'd think they could get the order correct seeing as they only sell 4 platform products but no, they have sent me their new wide platform moulds.
No good for me.
You would have though that they would have sent the moulds AND the casting powder together to save on postage too?

Anywho, I used the white grease on my Tolgus Tin loco and placed it on some rollers to run in the grease but noticed, the loco wiggles from side to side slightly. I have not changed/moved any of the axle/wheel sets it came with, so it's "as is" from the previous owner.
I will try it later on-track to see how much it wiggles and then decide wether to do anthing about it or not.
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Re: St. Blazey's - My first layout - Stage 3 Building

Postby Bufferstop » Wed Jun 06, 2018 6:33 pm

If "Tolgus Tin" has the combined piston/connecting rods check that they slide freely through the slots in the cylinders. A bit too much or too little throw where they are cranked can make it waggle as it causes the rear wheels to try to move sideways. The other failing is one or more wheels not at right angles to the axle. It's better to try ignore it, trying to fix it risks loosening the wheels on the axle. Dad-1's class 06 shunter has a definite wiggle. He christened it Marylin :)
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Re: St. Blazey's - My first layout - Stage 3 Building

Postby End2end » Thu Jun 07, 2018 1:47 pm

Thanks Bufferstop. Yes the rods are running freely through the cylinders so I'll leave well alone then. :D

My Tuffcast powder turned up today so I need to make a few more specific Linka tiles for my main station building.
I started to glue together some tiles yesterday and this morning for the longer walls but am missing some small half-wall/window tiles I need to finish the outer walls.
I have already made up 2 of the internal walls which will add extra strength and internal decor but need to check the design for the other internal walls.
At least one won't be seen so can be made of any type of tiles rather than a specific tile.
I'll add some pictures once there's something to look at. :lol:
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Re: St. Blazey's - My first layout - Stage 3 Building

Postby Bufferstop » Thu Jun 07, 2018 7:42 pm

In the real world 0-4-0s and even 0-6-0s had a tendency to waddle. The nickname for the GWR pannier tanks was "ducks", now where do you suppose that came from?
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Re: St. Blazey's - My first layout - Stage 3 Building

Postby End2end » Fri Jun 08, 2018 2:47 pm

OK. Something to look at.
Here's where I am upto on my Linka station building.
Main outer walls, a few of the inner walls and one floor added so far.
Platform side.
NewLinkaStation6sm.jpg

Street / road side
NewLinkaStation7sm.jpg

From one end showing the internal walls, floor, doors and any windows
NewLinkaStation8sm.jpg
NewLinkaStation8sm.jpg (113.48 KiB) Viewed 438 times

From the other end
NewLinkaStation9sm.jpg
NewLinkaStation9sm.jpg (111.14 KiB) Viewed 438 times


The 2 small rooms (Ticket office and other office) will have a floor.
Where the balsa floor has already been added will be split into 4 rooms. Staff, store, ladies waiting room and ladies toilet.
Once the end and internal walls are complete I will spray it with a grey undercoat before over painting in the proper colours.
Then add all the windows, internal and external with some that will be frosted for the bathroom areas.
I will probably add a floor to the main booking hall area so I can place people waiting to buy tickets and other items in there glued to the floor.

I'm yet to work out how I will make the roof. The whole building is 1 and a half tiles wide so not your usual 2 tiles wide, easy to make Linka roof using 2 slanted tiles. I will need to cut down the 2 slanted tiles to fit the width of the building.
It shouldnt be too hard but I may need to make up more tiles.

Ideas......... above my station :lol:
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Re: St. Blazey's - My first layout - Stage 3 Building

Postby TimberSurf » Fri Jun 08, 2018 4:34 pm

End2end wrote:Ideas......... above my station :lol:

Brilliantly appropriate! :lol:


Looks good, don't forget to plan in the lighting :wink: :)
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Re: St. Blazey's - My first layout - Stage 3 Building

Postby End2end » Fri Jun 08, 2018 5:39 pm

TimberSurf wrote:Brilliantly appropriate! :lol:
:mrgreen:
Looks good, don't forget to plan in the lighting :wink: :)

All part of my planning process Timbersurf. If you didn't notice, ALL rooms have windows for the lights to shine through. :D
The wires will run up the inside of the end store room. I may add a peice of vero board once I've done some tests with multiple resistors to bring the light level down somewhat as that way it's easy to keep all the electronics together. Plus I'll varnish the LED's for good measure.
3 more internal walls now glued into place and drying.
Hopefully have more to show soon.
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Re: St. Blazey's - My first layout - Stage 3 Building

Postby End2end » Fri Jun 08, 2018 6:12 pm

While my mind is on it, is this how I would wire multiple resistors to reduce light levels?
Laid out as if attached to vero board. (track cuts would be made under the resistors).
MultiRwiring.jpg

Connecting each of the LED's together rather than a "ring main" of sorts?
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Re: St. Blazey's - My first layout - Stage 3 Building

Postby TimberSurf » Sat Jun 09, 2018 12:17 am

What you have written is not wrong, more resistors in series will reduce the voltage to the LED's.
It depends what voltage you are supplying them with, but bare in mind the LED's can be connected in series, i.e. 4 x 2.2v LED's in series only need one small resistor in series to make the right voltage reduction, on say 12V.

Best to buy some 500R, 1KR, 2KR and 5KR resistors and experiment. (rather than use a calculation, as that will only give you full brightness)
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Re: St. Blazey's - My first layout - Stage 3 Building

Postby End2end » Sat Jun 09, 2018 1:00 am

Yes they will be connected the 12v lighting bus.
I only have 1K resistors at the moment with which I can reach the 2k and 5k you mention.
To test the brightness I will wire up how many LED's I need (9 at least for internal lighting) on a breadboard then start with a single 1K and add one at a time to see how much they dim.

This would be a lot easier if there was a variable resistor componant available that I could adjust with a small screwdriver rather than using multiple resistors. Does something like this exist?
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Re: St. Blazey's - My first layout - Stage 3 Building

Postby TimberSurf » Sat Jun 09, 2018 6:29 am

End2end wrote:This would be a lot easier if there was a variable resistor componant available that I could adjust with a small screwdriver rather than using multiple resistors. Does something like this exist?
End2end

Absolutely yes! Just put "Potentiometer" into ebay to see the massive range of options!
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Re: St. Blazey's - My first layout - Stage 3 Building

Postby timbologist » Sat Jun 09, 2018 6:43 am

TimberSurf wrote:What you have written is not wrong, more resistors in series will reduce the voltage to the LED's.
It depends what voltage you are supplying them with, but bare in mind the LED's can be connected in series, i.e. 4 x 2.2v LED's in series only need one small resistor in series to make the right voltage reduction, on say 12V.

Ok I am going to be a wet blanket and disagree with what you have written above on technical grounds, reasoning is as follows.

1. it is advisable not to connect the LEDS up in parallel as you intend to as because each LED will have different characteristics and will not share the current evenly, and if any LED should fail the extra current and voltage will be taken up by the functioning LEDS which will make them brighter and bring there operating conditions closer to the maximum ratings which will snow ball till all the LEDS fail. Depending on the LEDS the forward voltage is about 1.2 volts and I generally a current of 10mA is used so for your case 9 LEDS at 10mA = 90mA and the voltage is 12v from R=V/I we get 12/0.09 = 133 ohms.
And the power = W = I x V 0.09 x 12 = 1.08 watts, so you need a 2 watt resister to cope with the power.

Now for individual LEDS R = 12/0.01 = 1k2 ohms power = 12 x .01 = 0.12 watts so a 1/4 watt or 1/8 watt is ok. as for a variable resister you would need a 2 Watt to control the brightness if you wired them all up in parallel as per your circuit. Below is a couple of links to the Bourns trim-pot catalogue pages
Multi-turn http://www.bourns.com/products/trimpot-trimming-potentiometers/trimpot-trimming-potentiometers-multiturn
Single turn http://www.bourns.com/products/trimpot-trimming-potentiometers/trimpot-trimming-potentiometers-single-turn

As can bee seen there are several that will take 1 Watt but you really need a 2 Watt to be safe. And these are good quality devices not Chinese so the specs are not the same.

You could always use a buck step down converter to drop the voltage to a much lower level but still use a resister in each LED and vary the output voltage. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-3A-DC-DC-3V-5V-16V-Converter-Step-Down-Buck-Power-Supply-Module/282526836569?hash=item41c7e96759:g:FacAAOSwDApaVHVx

These converters are more efficient than using a voltage regulator and can handle more current without causing to much heat. Using a variable voltage regulator0n 12 volts set to for example 5 volts output at 3 amps as in the Buck you have power = (12-5) x 3 = 21 watts of heat to get rid of which is a big heat-sink.

As for the connection in series you have the same problem of the different characteristics, some will be brighter and some will be dimmer, and if one fails they all fail, and you have to test them all to find out which one died.

Sorry for the damper on your idea.


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