St. Blazey's - My first layout - Stage 3 Building

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No I haven't - it looks much posher than my Humbrol cans
As with anything not used before, suggest you try it out on a test piece before an important model

"I've shown you mine, now you show me yours."
Yes it was quite expensive and introduced to me here on the forum for taking the shine off of OO cars.

Do you remove the wheels or couplings from the wagons before using the matt varnish?
Thanks
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[PinkNosedPenguin]

"I've shown you mine, now you show me yours."
Yes it was quite expensive and introduced to me here on the forum for taking the shine off of OO cars.

Do you remove the wheels or couplings from the wagons before using the matt varnish?

Yeah I remove or mask anything I don't want sprayed - e.g. couplings, wheels, glazing, ...

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That's excellent. Thanks PNP.
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My Tolgus Tin 0-4-0 just refuses to go over my crossover unless it's at lightning speed.
The track is clean as so are the wheels and pick ups. It feels like I'm running clockwork having to keep touching the loco.
It wiggles a bit and it and has those older wider flanged wheels.

Not sure if there's a way to fix this. It's so small I'm not sure a stay alive would fit inside let alone wiring it. That and I have used a 6 pin decoder and harness with only 4 wires in use, the other 2 removed from the harness so I would need to change the decoder harness which being hard wired is a PITA!.

....Trundled off into the engine shed to grumble to myself.
Thanks
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[Daniel]

Sorry, wrong post.

[Daniel]

Sorry, wrong post.

[PinkNosedPenguin]

The KAM4 decoder from TCS (see here) is a space-saving decoder and stay alive combined. It is also very good value! I can attest from personal experience that the claim it will run for 6-15 seconds after disconnecting from the track is accurate.

[Bufferstop]

The Hornby 0-4-0 chassis will go through Electrofrog points no problem, if they are laid perfectly flat and all of it's wipers are making contact. It falls foul of the dimensions of some dead frog and settrack points (including Hornby's own).

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Thanks members. Unfortunately it's worse than expected.
After careful study to loco seems to jerk or lurch forward once every revolution of the wheels. Something that actually stops the loco moving when running slowly.
More investigation needed. Something seems to be getting caught.
Thanks
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[GreenBR]

Had this happen to me look to make sure the con rods are not catching on the plastic just had to file the slot bigger and all was fine

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Yes I think that may well be the cause GreenBR.
Thanks
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After much research into improving my Airfix Autocoach, I stumbled upon the newer Hornby and Bachmann models. Although Bachmann calls it an Auto Trailer.
With Rule No.1 in full force, the Hornby version just looks too garish and toy like to me so, with a little shuffling of funds I manged to find and buy the Bachmann 39-580 GWR Hawksworth Auto-Trailer in Chocolate and Cream today.
It's unlit so I'll need to add my own lighting circuit, but as I'll need to open it anyway to add passengers I can do both at the same time.

The other night I ransacked my modelling supplies trying to find any Bridge rectifiers I had left but to no avail. Then digging in my previous posts here I found I only bought 5 for one of the forum competitions. I need these for my coach lighting circuits so I bought 10 more.
Other things crossed off the shopping list of late are: Tacky Wax, Conductive paint, masking fluid, another pot of Railmatch "sleeper grime" and 2 tubes of "Burnt Umber" acrylic paint from TheWorks.
The 2 Burnt Umber tubes arrived today and are not the same shade as the Burnt Umber I have been using from Wilko's. These ones are a lighter brown.
Drat!.
Unfortunately it seems Wilko's has stopped selling the 2 main paints I've used throughout.

I walked away form the 0-4-0 causing me problems and set about trying to tackle another. Those absolutely USELESS Kibri instructions for the 8330 cottage kit.
I'm over 50% finished but it's taking a while due to having to decipher the black and white instructions and just how many parts there are. Even the walls have an extra lower 3 brick course part to glue onto every wall piece.
But none the less..... mine already looks better than the 2 completed kits for sale on ebay.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KIBRI-ECHELL ... Swy8Ze9u2B

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kibri-8330-H ... SwJHhcu0KF
Terrible.

Think that's all for now.
Thanks
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[Bufferstop]

If the 0-4-0 has connecting rods fitted (cylinder to driven axle) it's should have two bends in it so that it sticks out clear of the front coupling rod pin as it goes round. If it gets squeezed in it will give you the once per rev jerk. If it gets pulled outwards the end of the rod gets stuck inside the cylinder. Great design

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Thanks Bufferstop. I'll check that but I think it may be because I painted the con-rods.
Thanks
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Had this happen to me look to make sure the con rods are not catching on the plastic just had to file the slot bigger and all was fine

After taking the body off and testing last night it's not the con rods. I flipped them over so they were dragging along the ballast behind the loco and something is still catching making the loco jerk and even stop at slow speed.
I've got no experience in this but it seems like there's a problem with the cog attached to the driving wheels and the motor worm gear seizing at a certain point?
The loco is greased and oiled.

Reading back on my own posts I see that this jerking was a problem when I first received the loco and I've been so busy doing other things it must have been one of those things put on the " to do later" list and simply forgotten about.
https://www.newrailwaymodellers.co.uk/F ... 15#p628488

Is this a common problem with a simple remedy?
I'm no good at all this fixing loco's lark. .... back to painting a plastic kit!
Thanks
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