It did stick a little on some pointwork if I went slowly but sometimes just got caught for a split second then jumped back into life and carried on.
This is a common problem with 4 wheelers, this is what happens - the loco is proceeding towards the frog (usually on the straight track}. the leading wheel approaching the frog drops into the oversized gap of the flange way. This reduces the contact pressure between the diagonally opposite wheel and the rail, leaving only the leading wheel on the stock rail to pick up current on that side. The loss of traction causes the loco to rock back remaking or improving contact sufficient to start moving again.
Things which will improve the situation -
- ensure as much weight as possible is within the wheelbase, not difficult on a side tank engine.
- check that all four wheels sit on the track, I stand the loco on a piece of plate glass (a scratched photocopier platen glass) and check for wobble. As platen glasses are hard to come by you can use a scanner's glass but put a sheet of paper on it to prevent scratching.
- thoroughly clean the wheels and ensure the pickups stay in contact when the wheel is moved side to side.
- ensure that the rail and frog surfaces through the point are level, insulforgs in particular but all plastic sleepered points seem to have a tendency to "dome" at the frog and require extra pinning to keep them flat.
- add a shim to the bottom of the flangeway to support the wheel as it crosses, providing this does not cause a problem for locos with a deeper flange. I doubt you'll have any deeper than a Hornby 0-4-0, unless it's an even older Triang/Triang Hornby 0-4-0