Lumsdonia

Post pictures and information about your own personal model railway layout that is under construction. Keep members up-to-date with what you are doing and discuss problems that you are having.
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timbologist
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Re: Lumsdonia

Post by timbologist »

Hi TimberSurf

Just another hint to get better looking large areas like you bridge work that is to stager the joints, this is a roof panel that I have just started to work on, it is 100mm x 210mm, it gives a stronger sheet and the joins become less obvious. This is one of my experiments, placed the tiles on my plate so there is a small gap between the fingers then feed a very thin slurry into the gap then close the gap, not much stays in the gap, will need a bit of a clean up though.
The other thing I tried this time was to taper the fingers so they all go home properly and they slide together easier.
Mig Jimenez, wow, that's what you call detail! That will take some time to absorb all he has on YouTube!
I would say he is top of the class in what he does.

The weathering is quite nice, the use of many different types of materials to get the effect you want is good thinking.
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TimberSurf
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Re: Lumsdonia

Post by TimberSurf »

I like the staggered idea! But not an issue with the bridge, as everything is glued directly to wood. I always file the back of the fingers on every joint, latest thinking is might file the ends as well, as I have gaps on one side but not the other. I suspect I have a rogue mould, seems some tiles are smaller than the rest!
Let us know how the "fill and push together" goes!
Working away, so cant do much now till w/e
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Lumsdonia <--- Hit link to go to my website for full story and wiring advice!
timbologist
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Joined: Wed Sep 18, 2013 6:39 am
Location: Hazeldene Victoria Australia ( in the bush )

Re: Lumsdonia

Post by timbologist »

Let us know how the "fill and push together" goes!
It went quite well, the mess on the face came of easily as can be seen on the photo there was a couple of bodgy bits. One tile I did not sit down on the backing properly ( I have a special perspex frame for making sheets, ensures flat and square ). The joins all filled nicely except those seen in photo.
One problem I noticed is that when the R2 tiles are joined together, by the nature of the tiles you end up with a distinct row of grooves that make a line vertically down the sheet. So I had to fill these grooves and randomly cut new grooves.
I file my tiles on all 4 sides and as I said I file the fingers tapered. There is a special tool for cleaning the fingers, sort of a plastic file that has the fingers on it.
This is the only thing I have had real problems with always break the fingers off :oops:
Tony
LINKA FINGER TOOL
LINKA FINGER TOOL
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LINKA FINGER TOOL
LINKA FINGER TOOL
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TimberSurf
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Re: Lumsdonia

Post by TimberSurf »

timbologist wrote: There is a special tool for cleaning the fingers, sort of a plastic file that has the fingers on it.
This is the only thing I have had real problems with always break the fingers off :oops:
I gave up using that a long time ago, the mix I use is too hard for it to file and as you say, regularly breaks fingers off! I just use a 4in fine metal file
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Lumsdonia <--- Hit link to go to my website for full story and wiring advice!
timbologist
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Joined: Wed Sep 18, 2013 6:39 am
Location: Hazeldene Victoria Australia ( in the bush )

Re: Lumsdonia

Post by timbologist »

Hi TimberSurf
On Wednesday went through my late father's modelling tools and found some Olfa saw Blades they are 0.3mm thick could be ideal for grooving.

the links are to some other blades, the ones I found are not there but these others may be ok.

http://www.olfa.com/pull-saw-blade-%28h ... 05914.html

http://www.olfa.com/narrow-saw-blades-p ... /9169.html

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TimberSurf
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Re: Lumsdonia

Post by TimberSurf »

Thanks Timbologist, they look very interesting, KB4-NS on order

Gadzooks! http://www.olfa.com.tw/pdf/olfa.pdf, great brochure, shame about the slleping :D
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Lumsdonia <--- Hit link to go to my website for full story and wiring advice!
timbologist
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Joined: Wed Sep 18, 2013 6:39 am
Location: Hazeldene Victoria Australia ( in the bush )

Re: Lumsdonia

Post by timbologist »

TimberSurf wrote:Thanks Timbologist, they look very interesting, KB4-NS on order
Glad to be of service, as for the spelling you need to learn Chinglish :)
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Re: Lumsdonia

Post by TimberSurf »

The sloping embankment is coming along, having successfully mastered using silicon sealant as a mould for the recessed parapet, had a slight set back, the triple has a dip at one end, so had to cast some more to make a new master. Did I mention, soap destroys Linka? My soap release agent works well at releasing the master, by dissolving it! :oops: (lesson learnt) Thus the large arch mould was more successful and is now churning out replicates!
Sloping Embankment Arch Mould 1st smear.jpg
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Sloping Embankment Arch Mould 1st made.jpg
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Sloping Embankment Arch Mould 1st cast.jpg
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Lumsdonia <--- Hit link to go to my website for full story and wiring advice!
timbologist
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Re: Lumsdonia

Post by timbologist »

TimberSurf wrote: mastered using silicon sealant as a mould for the recessed parapet
Now that is something I have never thought of, next mould will give it a try.

As for protecting the master I coat my plaster with shellac it soaks into the plaster and a few coats it becomes impervious to most things.
My father used this to make plaster to plaster moulds and used dissolved velvet soap as a release agent ( he did this for over 50 years in his job )

The job comes out well, how thick did you make the mould, definitely looks a better way than making out of Latex :)

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TimberSurf
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Re: Lumsdonia

Post by TimberSurf »

I will eventually bite the bullet and buy some two part silicon RTV and pour moulds, but its so expensive! Found a local (50miles) source of the right stuff now, at about £12 a kilo but need to pick it up as postage is £8! Sealant is ok for flattish moulds, but it is very viscous, so you have to "push" it into the detail first, as pic above, then place it onto a fresh bed of silicon sitting on soaped glass the right way up and finally create the sides (with a former). Under is about 5mm thick, sides are about 10mm wide, cast on glass to maintain flatness. The advantage of silicon is that it needs no release agent. I foolishly painted the master first, and the paint stuck to the silicon, but plaster just peels away beautifully! I have to leave my "mix" for 3 days to dry in Linka moulds (else they break trying to get them out), I easily removed the third cast tonight having poured it this morning!
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TimberSurf
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Re: Lumsdonia

Post by TimberSurf »

Bridge is coming along slowly, added gussets under the 4 track after creating the main roadway/structure from wood, with the middle wood block ready to add Linka walls like the front pier. Just short of glue.
Station Bridge No.247 Three Track recess overview.jpg
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Station Bridge No.247 Three Track 45 overview.jpg
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Station Bridge No.247 Four Track underside.jpg
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TimberSurf
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Re: Lumsdonia

Post by TimberSurf »

I need to start making my long platforms with small curves on the ends. I am not happy with my original method, cardboard and printed paper.
I cold use embossed or cast plastic or Linka. I don't think Linka for the surface is the right choice. I might play with Linka for the brick walls, that will be in keeping with the bridge next door. For the surface, I will probably use either embossed plastic or painted emery paper as tarmac, in either case, not sure how to do the edging stones (without being extremely time consuming).
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TimberSurf
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Re: Lumsdonia

Post by TimberSurf »

Bridge is progressing, middle support is built and fitted, need to get some grey paint for pointing. Sloping embankment is all cast, needs a frame and then I can start joining the "Special" cast arches. Sloping buttress mould now works. Also made a start at casting curved wall for platform ramp!
Half cast + buttress.jpg
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Butress.jpg
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Lumsdonia <--- Hit link to go to my website for full story and wiring advice!
timbologist
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Re: Lumsdonia

Post by timbologist »

It's all coming together nicely, and those silicon moulds seem to be working quite well as the detail is not lost, Do you work it in with the universal tool ( the finger :) )
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TimberSurf
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Re: Lumsdonia

Post by TimberSurf »

No fingers involved. Just ensure the small nozzle is at right angles and close to surface as silicon is extruded, covering master surface first, then build up thickness as required. Considering the its high viscosity, it picks up detail very well! (including all master flaws :oops: )
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Lumsdonia <--- Hit link to go to my website for full story and wiring advice!
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