Heritage Line Layout-a change of plan

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Bufferstop
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Re: Heritage Line Layout Time for an update

Postby Bufferstop » Tue Mar 06, 2012 5:41 pm

Sorted to correct accidental post.
Last edited by Bufferstop on Tue Mar 06, 2012 8:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Bufferstop
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Re: Heritage Line Layout Time for an update

Postby Bufferstop » Tue Mar 06, 2012 5:48 pm

siquelme wrote:Isnt your Freelance Bo-Bo Shunter missing from that line up?

I wanted the operating ones in the line up (excuse, excuse I just couldn't be bothered to open the display case) but it does get a mention in the text.
John W
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Bufferstop
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Re: Heritage Line Layout Time for an update

Postby Bufferstop » Tue Mar 06, 2012 11:12 pm

When I wrote the bit about FR No20 I couldn't for the life of me remember where the tube for the boiler came from. I knew what it looked like and the only thing I could think it held was tablets of some sort. Then I did a bit of digging around the early pages and found it. It was a tube that had held "cocktail sparklers" the allegedly safe ones that can be stuck into those drinks which come with their own fruit salad. Heaven knows where I got it from. Seeing the potential use for things that are heading for the bin has turned me into a sort of "recycling kleptomaniac". :P
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GeraldH
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Re: Heritage Line Layout Time for an update

Postby GeraldH » Wed Mar 07, 2012 7:30 pm

That's a great collection of bashed locos. How did you manage to make plasticard frames and line up the 4 axle holes correctly?
Gerald H - BNR Correspondent :)

My layout: http://www.newrailwaymodellers.co.uk/Fo ... hp?t=28854

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Bufferstop
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Re: Heritage Line Layout Time for an update

Postby Bufferstop » Wed Mar 07, 2012 11:36 pm

I start with a pair of coupling rods and use an expo drill in a vertical stand to drill through the holes in the rods and the two blank frames in one steady go. Then I do the same to a couple of pieces of plastic angle. I open out the holes in the frames with a rat tail needle file until the frame bushes are a tight fit. The pieces of plastic angle are screwed down to a piece of ply so that they are parallel about six inches apart. I have two lengths of one eighth steel rod which I put through the holes in the angle and adjust the positions so that everything is square. Then I slide out the rods from one end, pop the frames onto the rods, slide them back in and check again that they are square. Then I can set to and glue in the spacing pieces with the frames supported on a pair of parallel bars going through the axle holes. I'll find my picture of the jig and re post it. I've used the long rods to check out some Hornby chassis, you'd be surprised how sloppy they are.
John W
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Bufferstop
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Re: Heritage Line Layout Time for an update

Postby Bufferstop » Thu Mar 08, 2012 10:38 am

Here it is my assembly / alignment jig.
Image
Starting with the coupling rods seems to be the best bit of advice I've picked up. If I'd had some aluminium angle available I'd have used that, the plastic needs careful handling not to distort it when setting up. Once the side frame are solidly joined by the spacers the chassis can be removed and then put onto the protruding rods as a custom made holder during subsequent operations. For a different length wheelbase I make a new set of holes, drilling the crankpin diameter then opening out. Drilling full size to start isn't accurate enough, well not with my equipment!
John W
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bisselhead
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Re: Heritage Line Layout Time for an update

Postby bisselhead » Fri Apr 06, 2012 7:28 pm

Thats a really good looking layout. Just the sort of thing I am trying to make albeit a smaller one. A I am just a newy at this, what are the red and blue knobs for?

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Re: Heritage Line Layout Time for an update

Postby bisselhead » Fri Apr 06, 2012 7:50 pm

Hi again, its only me.
Re: Red and blue knobs question. Just spent the last hour reading through all the posts & pictures and now realise they are the pull and push for signals ect.
Again, a really insparational layout.

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Bufferstop
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Re: Heritage Line Layout Time for an update

Postby Bufferstop » Fri Apr 06, 2012 11:33 pm

Yep you've sussed it. The board for the branch line end was the first one to have the track laid. The points and signals were all put in with wire in tube to operate them. The knobs are actually cut down mapping pins, drilled through and stuck onto the end of the wire. They work but I'm not 100% happy with the odd angles that they stick out. When it came to the board at the other end I used stiff wire push rods (paper clip wire and rods from magazine binders.) with their ends bent over and a dab of the appropriate colour to match the track plan on the control panel. If they connect to the main line or loops they are red, sidings to each side are yellow and blue so its easy to spot the one you want. Isolating switches and push buttons are similarly coloured. With two operators it's possible to have two locos operating in any way that regulations would allow, and for the most part nothing more to do than throw the appropriate points. Dead ends with a push button to energise them allow for a train to be pulled out to release a trapped loco. Signals aren't absolutely right, but there are fixed distants and home signals on the approach to each station, and all platform roads have a starter signal. I'm slowly replacing the Ratio signal posts with reworked Hornby Dublo ones which are only slightly overscale and exceedingly solid. I look for cheap battered examples on ebay and at swapmeets, strip them down and build a new signal on the die cast post. Beats me why Triang didn't ditch their own overscale designs when they became the owners of all of the Hornby Dublo tooling.
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Bufferstop
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Re: Heritage Line Layout Time for another update

Postby Bufferstop » Sat Jul 14, 2012 5:45 pm

Well I thought that an update was required just to show that the layout is still under construction. Way back at the start of the thread I said that one of the reasons for modelling a heritage line was that my layouts all end up like heritage sites with more stock than can be accommodated. Well it's happened, it was well and truly log jammed. I decided on a bit of shuffling round of stock and in the end I decided that three more wagons moved into store or another short siding were required. A quick rummage in the cupboard turned up a short piece of code 75 and as I was feeling parsimonious I decided it would have to be a siding which had been disconnected. So here it is.
Image
Image
I pinned the track in position and before ballasting it stuck down some sleepers to make it look as though a set of points had been removed leaving the siding disconnected. I placed three wagons undergoing renovation on there freeing up some much needed space in the other sidings. If they don't get a shift on and get that crane working before the wagons are finished it's going to be hard work getting them out of there.
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Lysander
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Re: Heritage Line Layout Time for another update

Postby Lysander » Sat Jul 14, 2012 7:08 pm

Haven't read this for a while - enjoyed the updates John.

Tony
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Peterm
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Re: Heritage Line Layout Time for another update

Postby Peterm » Sun Jul 15, 2012 2:57 am

Same here, very interesting too.
Pete.

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mikem64
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Re: Heritage Line Layout Time for another update

Postby mikem64 » Sun Jul 15, 2012 6:23 am

Nice work as always, love the photo looking down the engine shed with the sidings to the left & in the background the bridge over the track, just kept drawn back to this picture as it just has something that I really like, can't quite put my finger on it at the moment but it's very eye pleasing.

Catch you later,
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Re: Heritage Line Layout Time for another update

Postby Dad-1 » Sun Jul 15, 2012 9:56 am

Hi Bufferstop,

I have only one complaint aimed at this thread - we have to wait too long between posting of pictures !!
Some super work in here.

It almost tempted me to do a running gear conversion on my old dock shunter, but I soon forgot that idea.

Geoff T.
Remember ... I know nothing about railways.
viewtopic.php?f=22&t=32187 and Another on viewtopic.php?f=22&t=28436&start=60&st=0&sk=t&sd=a

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Bufferstop
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Re: Heritage Line Layout Time for another update

Postby Bufferstop » Mon Jul 23, 2012 10:08 pm

Dad-1 wrote:It almost tempted me to do a running gear conversion on my old dock shunter, but I soon forgot that idea.

I've done it two ways now. Fine scale wheels in the original chassis, and a body grafted onto a Smokey Joe chassis. The original chassis wins hands down on running and pulling, one day I'll grind off the Triang TC details and make it look like an outside framed gear drive loco.
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