First of all if you want to argue which point motor is best create a new thread don't use mine..
The 20 year old track is Peco set track which is also nickel not steel, thanks for pointing that out, I think I would have noticed.
Back to MY layout.
Bought a Hornby Class 08 on Ebay its a brand new never been run 1981 model, the brushes barely had any wear on them but still it had to stripped down completely and cleaned and rebuilt.
It was stuttering around the track but after a good service it ran like new, then it was converted to DCC and I had a go at running it around the track with my new Hornby Elite controller. I only played with it for 5 mins or so and need to set it up properly so the acceleration/de-acceleration of the 08 is prototypical.
I got back to the wiring and connected all the drop wires together, here's a tip use automotive thin wall wire. Its fairly lightweight but can handle quite a lot of current, also metre for metre its much cheaper and better quality than the wire that can be bought from Maplins and I had loads left from the Kit Car I built. I used 15A wire for the dropwires and linked them all back to one point where the controller will be mounted, also a siding has been isolated from the layout and will be used for the programming of the loco's. a DPDT switch will be added so I can swap between DCC and programming from the (to be built) control panel.
The points were also wired up and all the wiring was brought back to a central point, the return wires for the point motors were common'd together to reduce the amount of wires being taken back to the control panel. The wires were routed away from the DCC wires to prevent any interference. they were finally wrapped in cable wrap and all the cable ends were identified and labelled according to a mimic drawing I made.
Because rules are rules. Where would we be without rules, that's right FRANCE!