The Line To Honeywell

Post pictures and information about your own personal model railway layout that is under construction. Keep members up-to-date with what you are doing and discuss problems that you are having.
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mikem
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Postby mikem » Sat Apr 22, 2006 10:22 pm

Have you space for a shed or garage????

Seriously though good luck with the loft it looks a good useable space once boarded
Will I ever open all these red and yellow boxes?

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Honeywell
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Postby Honeywell » Sat Apr 22, 2006 11:15 pm

psdavidson wrote:Is the photo a mock-up of the wiring for Daves points??

http://www.newrailwaymodellers.co.uk/Fo ... php?t=1449


It's nowhere near as bad as the wiring needed for Dave's points :P

The pipes I'm not bothered about shifting, I'm just gonna have to box those in, leave them alone and learn to avoid them after I've tripped over a dozen times.

The electrics are borderline a pisstake though. I'm not impressed.

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Ironduke
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Postby Ironduke » Sun Apr 23, 2006 1:11 am

The electrics are borderline a pisstake though. I'm not impressed.

You're not wrong :shock: Is that flex they've used there??? Don't you get to check for this sort of thing before you buy?
Regards
Rob

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Honeywell
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Postby Honeywell » Sun Apr 23, 2006 2:25 am

There's some flex running up to temporary lighting.. we need to be able to see..

The rest of it is all the right stuff, it just isn't well done.

It will be by the time we've finished though.

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Honeywell
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Postby Honeywell » Sat Apr 29, 2006 12:39 am

Update time.

Progress is slowly being made on the easier areas that we are able to work in..

Image

Before anyone (Dave or Chris) pipes up with their big airhorns to say 'That's a mess, you've left a big gap between the boards and the cross beam to the right on the picture' I have reasoning.

A gap is needed so that the floorboarding avoids wires which we're avoiding moving as far as is practical.

The boards are slightly offset from one another because of the above mentioned beams being offset and I'm trying to avoid having gaps as much as possible.

The offset isn't an issue because the boards with the tongue and groove will still interlock nicely and it won't be noticable when it's all complete.

And finally for now, the gaps where the wires are being avoided will disappear once the boarding out is done..

The pipes that run over a fair percentage of the loft space will be boxed in with accessible tops in case of emergency repair work being needed. These boxes will hide the gaps. Sorted.

We're now able to walk about a fair percentage of the loft on boards, so I may start the revised Honeywell plan pretty soon.

Rock on.

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Dave777
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Postby Dave777 » Sat Apr 29, 2006 8:26 am

Honeywell wrote:Before anyone (Dave or Chris) pipes up with their big airhorns...


Are you hinting that we criticise too much?! :)

At least I got you to say I've got a big horn. Whey hey, etc.
Specialist in short and to-the-point replies

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Raider
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Postby Raider » Sat Apr 29, 2006 9:39 am

Image

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Kentman98
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Postby Kentman98 » Sat Apr 29, 2006 6:36 pm

Well I'm impressed.

Surprised as well! So soon after moving in and being allowed up into the loft rather then the million other jobs that are normally associated with a house move :lol:
Trev

Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.......

My layout thread

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Honeywell
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Postby Honeywell » Sat Apr 29, 2006 9:57 pm

Kentman98 wrote:Well I'm impressed.

Surprised as well! So soon after moving in and being allowed up into the loft rather then the million other jobs that are normally associated with a house move :lol:


Cheers.

To be fair I have no choice but to board the loft out as soon as possible as we (I) have a room full of boxes to 'lose' somewhere so we can finally get proper use of the room (darts on a Friday night ).

Game on.

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Raider
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Postby Raider » Sat Apr 29, 2006 11:28 pm

Image Looks like the progress is quicker than expected - just make sure you don't end up drilling through one of those wires or pipes :roll:

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Honeywell
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Postby Honeywell » Sat Apr 29, 2006 11:30 pm

If we were being reckless enough to do that we'd have made much faster progress.

..until a disaster.

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Honeywell
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Postby Honeywell » Sat May 06, 2006 8:19 pm

Back on topic to Honeywell itself..

I know roughly how the revised layout is going to have to be laid out up in the new space I have..

In basic terms it's a mirror image of the layout I had previously planned before the home move, but the station isn't going to have quite such a curve to it. This makes it easier to model in some respects, but it totally throws out the worked out geometry of the lead into the station and subsequently the goods and shed lines.

This isn't a major problem as such, but I've sat down a few times now with a pen and my jotting pad and after a while given up without even making a mark.

I've got designers block and just can't get started.

Any advice on that I'm happy to receive, though I know basically I think I'm gonna have to wait until the main area is fully covered with floorboards so I can get my railway boards down and play with bits of track to get the ideas flowing.

As a side note I've decided the station name will actually be Honeywell Junction..

The main signal box will have been recently renamed Honeywell Junction West and the new box being built at the end of the station where the new line is under construction is going to be...

Honeywell Junction East logically enough.

I'll post some loft update pictures later for all to taunt.

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joshing_man
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Postby joshing_man » Sun May 07, 2006 12:35 am

Nice one Rich - bet you're pleased to be getting back to the layout. Be good to see it coming to fruition.

Andrew
The Original Smiling Man With Train (SMWT):

m.levin
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Postby m.levin » Sat May 20, 2006 12:48 pm

If you need a hand or company whilst doing all that work Rich, you have my phone number. :lol:

Henry's Grandad
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Postby Henry's Grandad » Sat May 20, 2006 2:26 pm

I see that you appear to be using an ordinary ladder for access to the loft.
I assume that in time you will invest in a "proper" loft ladder.
When you do, I advise that you buy the best (most expensive) that you can afford. look for wide side pieces, and deep treads (the bit where your foot goes).
It's going to get a lot of use, and some of the cheap ones in the DIY stores are really not up to that sort of treatment.
I speak from experience, the hand rail on mine fell off in less than a year, it was held by only two 6mm aluminium bolts! and the construction isn't too hot- it flexes under load and I'm only 11 stone.
Do have a good look round before parting with the filthy lucre, HTH


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