Llwyndrissi Halt.

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Mountain
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Mountain » Thu Nov 16, 2017 1:02 pm

Since the last picture all the point cables are finished to the five points. I have a sixth lever for a point I've not built yet. I have also installed four point frog switches though the wiring is not done yet. Two points do not need frog switches as the two behind the scenes have isolating frogs to them. The frog switches are mini micro switches and have been installed by the levers rather then by the points, as I dont want to put extra force and friction on the cables when it is not necessary to do so.
It has been an interesting project and I'm glad it all works as planned. There are just a few small aspects to deal with such as the wiring up on the electrical side, which I've yet to embrace on the layout; and then I can run some trains, which is something I'm really looking forward to.
I am planning building another point to be operated from the surplus lever. There is already room reserved for the wheels and twine to reach the point in the position I have planned to put it, but getting the trains to run is the first priority for me!

Lee
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Lee » Fri Nov 17, 2017 2:05 pm

Mountain wrote:Here it is. Is not finished yet but it shows what it looks like. :) The paperclip is attached to one of the levers.


Love it 8)
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Mountain
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Mountain » Fri Nov 17, 2017 4:14 pm

Lee wrote:
Mountain wrote:Here it is. Is not finished yet but it shows what it looks like. :) The paperclip is attached to one of the levers.


Love it 8)


Now it looks something like this. :D Almost there!
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Bufferstop
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Bufferstop » Fri Nov 17, 2017 4:29 pm

Like the lever frame. Is there a notch to prevent the springs pulling the levers back. I use push/pull rods to set my points, it was a point of principal, working with computers and electronics I wanted as little of it as possible in my retirement hobby. Flashbang and Dad-1 had to twist my arm to take on this job :shock:
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Mountain
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Mountain » Fri Nov 17, 2017 7:36 pm

Only just started adding the bits to hold the levers in position. So far I've made two out of the six needed. They are just visible as they are held on by paperclip wire that goes over the top of the micro switches. Simple but effective. Another four to make and screw into place and the wiring will then commence. The two screws on the right hold the paperclip wires...

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Mountain
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Mountain » Sat Nov 18, 2017 8:52 pm

Working out where to cut the rails for DC wiring...
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PinkNosedPenguin
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby PinkNosedPenguin » Sun Nov 19, 2017 8:37 am

Your trackwork looks very good mountain - building my own is something I would not even consider attempting, so I admire your bravery :D. I am planning on using the ready-made Peco 0-16.5 crazy sleepers range, but it is a shame they don't make an option with sleepers further apart. Maybe I'll ballast right up to and almost over the sleepers so it won't really matter! As someone said above, I'm looking forward to seeing how your trackwork looks when you start the scenic stage on this layout. And you seem to be doing some real engineering with the point control - all fascinating stuff!

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Mountain
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Mountain » Sun Nov 19, 2017 10:10 am

:lol: I have to admit that I didnt choose the easy option! I have found though that with some patience and thought it is achieveable as before I started making the layout I would not have thought I could make my own track.
I do admit it is much quicker and easier to buy Peco 0-16.5 track, though making it has given my layout a personal touch.

I didnt intend to make my own track from the start. It sort of happened when I found myself wanting to do some modelling and knowing whatever I make needs to be portable as my mum and I have been waiting to relocate, so whatever I make had to be small.
As funds were short buying 0-16.5 track was not an option. However, I have plenty of 00 gauge track I can sacrifice from my 00 gauge collection that is stored away also waiting to relocate. So the initial plan was to use 00 gauge offcuts and a few older settrack points. I did try to convert some unique ancient points I bought very cheap that had preformed card sleepers but this was not a success as the design didnt work that well electrically. The toe end of the blades was part of the frog and moved to close or open the frog flangeway. It didnt work the way I'd hoped so as I had some old Peco points, I grabbed the scrappiest point which the plastic was coming away from the rails and started to solder on some strips of PCB that I'd cut. It worked. I had already layed the curves by using tea sturers as sleepers. The Peco rail was held in via using Hornby track pins. This first attempt was an oval on the single board of 2ft x 3½ft. It became apparent that while it kinda worked, the wheel flanges of locos and rolling stock often fowled the track pins. To prevent the sleepers splitting I had already had to drill every sleeper four times!
Now the solution was to use the older Peco track pins with the flat heads, so I went to try them to find they were slightly thinner and dropped straight down the holes where the newer pins were, so every sleeper was moved and new holes were drilled. Older pins were used for the insides and new on the outsides of the rail. The issue I had was that the rail needed to be flat, and the pinned method needed so much adjustment and it was not easy to get right.
The solution came in replacing every other sleeper with PCB sleepers to keep the rail height flat. I had made a single point with a single blade design as I thought it was a nice feature to add on the scenic side of the board, but thoughts were that the single board was just too small, as I wanted passing loops to make the design less boring. It was too roundy roundy being so small.
So a second board was made, and this curve was made entirely with PCB sleepers, as I wanted to also add a checkrail and while I opted to use PCB for the rest of the track, I decided to rebuild the single blade point into a conventional two bladed point which after trial and error it worked. So I also ended up making three scratchbuilt points for the scenic side and converting two Peco settrack points for behind the scenes.
I still had one curve that had every other sleeper being wood, and though I'd put a checkrail here as well, I later decided to use only PCB sleepers and it has been a success.
Yes, I'm still making adjustments as I go along. Yesterday I had the soldering iron out to slightly move a point checkrail and also re-gauge a bit of line for the hidden siding part that decided to move when the cutting disc had melted some solder while cutting to make isolation gaps ready for DC wiring...

First PIC shows the wood and PCB curve. (The curve near the controller has black dots on every other sleeper which are the pins holding the rails. Difficult to see!) Second shows as the track is now minus the point levers etc...

The point control has to be manual as I want the layout to have the capability to be run from a 12v battery if I ever need to. The original idea while building was to simply have a spring for one direction of the point and a pin to pull the wire (Looped at the end) onto for the other direction, but I liked the idea of point levers so just had to have a go at making some!

I have to add that sleepers were spaced slightly larger then normal for two reasons. The first is to enhance the narrow gauge look which I think works well and the second is because cutting and soldering so many sleepers was very time consuming! Note how spacing increases on the curves just before they reach the non scenic side of the layout so I didnt have to make so many sleepers!
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Lee
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Lee » Sun Nov 19, 2017 5:17 pm

That is just in a class of its own 8)
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carnehan
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby carnehan » Sun Nov 19, 2017 7:26 pm

I'm very impressed Mountain. Nice to see the whole operation there too. What are your thoughts when you move toward scenics?

Pau

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Mountain
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Mountain » Sun Nov 19, 2017 8:10 pm

Lee wrote:That is just in a class of its own 8)

Thanks. :D Just hope all goes to plan when I get the rails wired up and get things running.

carnehan wrote:I'm very impressed Mountain. Nice to see the whole operation there too. What are your thoughts when you move toward scenics?

Pau

Scenics. I have more then one idea. One idea is to have an island theme. Something that is UK owned but not on these shores so I can have an excuse to have something different in both plants and buildings. I'd love to try this idea out. Maybe have a back scene with a jetty with a pirate ship loading/unloading? :D I'd need to make a third board to make it work for such a scene.

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Mountain
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Mountain » Mon Nov 20, 2017 9:19 pm

While the cut isolation gaps are not going to move as the rails are soldered in position, I decided too fill the gaps with resin. Here are a few photos. As I was trying to hurry as I wanted to take photos at the same time, I had resin all over the sides of the playdough mould and I have seen a small bubble on the surface of one of the resin castings. This is more due to me being in a hurry then the resin casting itself. As it was I actually had an extra minute or two to play with, but I didnt want to chance it.
I've also learnt to always have spare moulds available as when resin casting, it does not look like you've mixed much but boy does it go a long way!
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Mountain
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Mountain » Sun Nov 26, 2017 1:29 pm

Just a quick picture to show how I have made a way to keep cables out of harms way prior to parting the two boards, as I had been concerned that if the cables were allowed to roam free, they could get caught on something and break. To hook back up, I simply undo the one hook from the spring, and hook it on the other hook that in the PIC, is held by a track pin.
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Mountain
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Mountain » Thu Dec 07, 2017 9:27 pm

As baseboards even without scenery can start to take on some weight, it is an idea for them to go on a diet so at least when the scenic clothes are added, the overall weight is more manageable.
I could have made an ultra light weight board from the start but to be honest, I do like what I build to have a solid feel to it, so for me this has to be wood. To lighten the layout I decided to drill a few holes in the framework. I've only done the non viewing side, but now thinking about it if the board does get heavier with added scenery, I may drill a few holes in the scenic side as well. We shall see how things go.
It is surprising that though there are not a great many holes drilled, I filled up the dustpan three times with the bits, which ended up in the chicken pen. Something interesting for them to scratch around. :D Liven up their day. :lol:
The pics shows holes drilled in the frame of one of the boards. Smaller holes were already there from the previous use of the wood as a bunk bed.
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Bufferstop
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.

Postby Bufferstop » Thu Dec 07, 2017 11:53 pm

Looking at your home made point cables reminded me of the control system built by the Reverend Peter Denny for his Buckingham layout. Movement was transmitted across the board joints by square section wooden rods fitted with springs so that they were always in contact with each other across the joints the transmission being stiff wire rods and angle cranks. I saw part of the layout, now over 60yrs old being run by his son and helpers at the Warley exhibition this year. It might have been hardwood cut from wooden Venetian blind slats, galvanised fence wire, and hand made springs but it was still running as well as any other layout at the show. The most modern thing on the layout was the Gaugemaster controller they were using. Signal, points, block bells etc were all hand made and were being used for every move. There was virtually nothing on the layout that he hadn't made himself.
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