Mountain wrote:The fixed portion should be able to carry weight if it is made with strength in mind. Boards do need a framework of support unless they are sufficiently thick enough to enable them to keep their rigidity, and to do that means that they need to be thick and heavy. Better to use a frame.
Have you considered the possibility of using an old table tennis table? It is just a thought that comes to mind that could be looked into as these fold upwards ad also have wheels. The one my brother has folds in such a way that there is room for a little scenery on the boards... Though he needs it for playing table tennis with his friends. It is just a thought, as sometimes these are given away by churches with youth groups when they buy new ones, and the repairs needed can be relatively minor to make them function again.
I have a foldable portable layout but mine is in 7mm narrow gauge, and is small. When it is in use, it is 7ft x 2ft and consists of a small oval of track with two passing loops and a siding.
The legs are fairly simple (They look more complicated then they are). The main board has two sets of legs and the other board just has the one as it relies on the main board for the other.
Initially, I had the track come right up to the edges of the baseboard, but in the eat we had during the summer before last, the railheight slightly differed. I am glad I found this out before I started to progress so I could impliment plan B. Plan B has been a success. It uses short sections of track to bridge the gaps and the layout track on both boards are set back to allow for this. I used old Lima railjoiners as they add more support and are hardier. (Peco or Hornby will do, though may need replacing more regulary). The link tracks are placed in position where the boards meet and the railjoiners are slid in position.
I use the split hinge method to join the boards. I will add another post to show the bridge track and the board split hinge joints.
I think this is the best model so far.