Would you give me some details of your A frame please.
What are you using as a pivot? I was thinking a 10mm threaded rod fitted in the end centre, and through the frame with a nut to hold it.
I made up some A-frame sign boards once and just used a pair of bog standard hinges on top. The frames were simply two legs and two rails screwed together with a hardboard filler nailed on the inside. I used chain attached by a screw and washer to limit opening. The tops and feet were cut off at an angle according to the set of the frame when open. Very similar could be used for supporting track boards without the filler panel.
For temporary support during building boards I use a pair of cheap plastic saw horses from a DIY chain.
Thanks for that idea, I am trying to visualize it.
The A frame could be mounted under each end, using a hinge screwed into the baseboard frame. The amount of tilt limited by the angle of the frame, which need not be vertical to get under it for soldering etc.
Worth a bit of thought, thanks again.
I thought you were dropping the hinged board down onto free standing A-frame legs, hence my description.
Here is a link to the principle, although wooden frames would be more substantial... https://images.app.goo.gl/2urXQm55GRMSysFr8
edit - Brian Lambert has a bit on his website about making and using A-frames.
If you want attached legs hinged to the board then use just one side of that frame (i.e. a simple 2 vertical legs with a cross brace top and near the bottom). Hinge these to the board and brace by a folding strut ala cheap wallpaper pasting table. Next time you are in a DIY shop take a look at them and pinch the idea but beef it up a bit to carry your board weight. If using the folding brace idea then make sure you have a secure locking method against it folding if knocked.
Last edited by RAF96 on Wed Dec 25, 2019 11:35 am, edited 1 time in total.
Legs that fold up into the baseboard aren't as straightforward as the might seem. Unless you have double height frames on the long edges the folded up legs want to sit where the cross-members join the sideframes, they have to be allowed for when doing wiring runs and the foul the backs of switches and sockets set into the frame. They also add considerable weight to the baseboard sections. For the greatest flexibility making the supporting structure separate from the sections of the model is the best answer. For serial layout builders it turns out cheaper and saves a lot of the heavier work, they only have to do it once.
After some thought, my son who built the present baseboard. Has decided there would be little difference in the weight of a new board, and has found a pivot which will fit to the end of the board, and will make a frame to suit. Sounds easy, but would work in the way I hoped. This will save me a lot of work, in re-laying and wiring track.
Thanks for your suggestions.
Could you please tell me the size and depth of the baseboard in the picture.
Apologies John, I missed this post.
I don't know the size of the baseboards unfortunatly, but if you look at the link I posted, PinkNosedPenguin might have it mentioned in his thread.
Hope it helps.
Thanks
End2end
You could always add gas struts like your cars tailgate has to assist with the lift and more importantly control the drop.. They come in various lengths, end fixings and load carrying.
I have got my layout on a stand at last. I changed my mind, about a bearing at each end, and put a hinge under the base board. As you see, it will only tilt to a vertical position, which makes it easy to get to the underside.