my head hurts...

Discussion of model railway baseboard design and construction
Sc0tty
Posts: 77
Joined: Wed Dec 17, 2014 7:27 pm

my head hurts...

Postby Sc0tty » Sun Dec 28, 2014 6:06 pm

Anyone have any ideas or plans for how to make two 6ft x 2ft plywood (12mm) baseboards that can be easily separated for storage?

I was basically thinking of making 2 x baseboards with softwood 2 x 1 battens for the framework, but I need some sort of quick release so that the boards can be made to join together to make a 6ft x 4ft board when it is time to play trains.

I wish I had gone N gauge now.............. :( :(

User avatar
End2end
Posts: 3871
Joined: Sun Jan 12, 2014 9:58 pm
Location: At the end....... and sometimes at the other end

Re: my head hurts...

Postby End2end » Sun Dec 28, 2014 6:16 pm

Just an idea...
Why not make a "hinged in the middle" layout by adding hinges on raised blocks. Then just unfold it when it's time to enjoy running some trains :)
Thanks
End2end
"St Blazey's" - The progress and predicaments.
Welcome‎
Planning
Building
St. Blazey's Works & Depot thread

Lofty

Re: my head hurts...

Postby Lofty » Sun Dec 28, 2014 6:22 pm

Sc0tty wrote:Anyone have any ideas

The big question is "How good are your woodworking skills?"

There are far better construction methods than 2" x 1" with 12mm ply, but without the skills and tools you are snookered

Sc0tty
Posts: 77
Joined: Wed Dec 17, 2014 7:27 pm

Re: my head hurts...

Postby Sc0tty » Sun Dec 28, 2014 6:52 pm

Lofty wrote:
Sc0tty wrote:Anyone have any ideas

The big question is "How good are your woodworking skills?"

There are far better construction methods than 2" x 1" with 12mm ply, but without the skills and tools you are snookered


Gee thanks !

Well, all I want to make is a simple base with timbers to prevent twist and bending of the 12mm ply which will be the board. Is there a recommended frame construction that is not going to make the boards too heavy?

b308
Posts: 4790
Joined: Sat Apr 15, 2006 5:48 pm
Location: North Worcs

Re: my head hurts...

Postby b308 » Sun Dec 28, 2014 8:09 pm

Starting by using 12mm ply (or the alternative 12mm chipboard) you will already have a heavy board even before you brace it! Unless you intend to stand on it then 12mm is far too thick, 9mm will do but even that can be heavy... There are lots of ways of building baseboards which tend to depend on the use you intend to make of them and how often you have to move it...

For a permanent board where it will stay in one place then it doesn't matter but as soon as you start to make it "portable" then you need to look at what sort of railway you want to make. If it's full of track then a solid board is the way forward, if mainly scenery then you can do "open top"... The trouble is there are as many methods of contruction as Forum Members and everyone has their pet method...

Personally I use 6 and 9mm ply with 25mm x 25mm softwood bracing which makes for a light board...

Bear in mind that the track will have to cross the join and that is best done on a straight track and whatever you do don't put a point across the joint...

If you do a Google search on "baseboard construction" you will see the vast majority of alternatives...

Lofty

Re: my head hurts...

Postby Lofty » Sun Dec 28, 2014 8:37 pm

Sc0tty wrote:Well, all I want to make is a simple base with timbers to prevent twist and bending of the 12mm ply which will be the board. Is there a recommended frame construction that is not going to make the boards too heavy?

If you are wanting a 6' x 2' board that is not going to twist, and is not too heavy, you need to get away from simple ply and soft wood bracing. There is no simple solution for the novice, as b308 suggests, get googling 'baseboard construction'

Sc0tty
Posts: 77
Joined: Wed Dec 17, 2014 7:27 pm

Re: my head hurts...

Postby Sc0tty » Sun Dec 28, 2014 9:05 pm

..........Jesus, I wish I had gone down the N gauge route.. :roll:

Dad-1
Posts: 5544
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2008 8:05 pm
Location: Dorset - A mile from West Bay.

Re: my head hurts...

Postby Dad-1 » Sun Dec 28, 2014 9:37 pm

Hi Sc0tty,

Just remember 'N' needs even better track laying !!

You've made no mention as to what this 12 foot layout will rest on ? With that comes the question of how
high you want it to sit when in use ?
Joining boards is always a potential problem, firstly how to line up accurately , then the mechanical 'clamping'
followed by some method of taking power between them.
None of this is overly difficult but you need to be definite on the path to be taken, in my opinion, before you
worry too much about actual base board construction.

Geoff T.
Remember ... I know nothing about railways.
viewtopic.php?f=22&t=32187 and Another on viewtopic.php?f=22&t=28436&start=60&st=0&sk=t&sd=a

User avatar
Emettman
Posts: 2353
Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2014 4:43 pm
Location: Cornwall UK
Contact:

Re: my head hurts...

Postby Emettman » Sun Dec 28, 2014 9:40 pm

b308 wrote:The trouble is there are as many methods of contruction as Forum Members and everyone has their pet method...

If you do a Google search on "baseboard construction" you will see the vast majority of alternatives...


Oh yes, oh yes. If not more methods than members (I know I've used several, according to circumstances!)

Sc0tty, how high is the allowance going to have to be for scenery/buildings/trees? This is going to affect how much volume the boards will take up when stored, and is it both boards that are going to have to disappear and reappear, or is it going to be OK if one sits on the other (in a cosmetically acceptable manner?)

If the former, despite the extra joints 3 4' x 2' boards might be easier to manage.
If the latter an "L" shape in plywood girders suggests itself, each board having a rigid backscene which can support one edge of the board when one board is rotated 180 degrees about its long axis and placed on top of the other forming a box structure, The board moved would need cosmetic treatment to it's back and underside.
The supports running front to back are profiled to match the intended scenery, adding the depth of this to the fundamental strength of the structure, rather than this just "sitting" on a flat baseboard surface.
This picture gives the rough idea:
Image

As has been said, choices do depend on your craft skill and experience, if trying to keep something 6ft long light and rigid.

Hmm. Hunting for foam-core doors or similar as possible "ready finished " baseboards, I hit upon "Sing Core"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKUq_JZLmp0#t=104
The size of those panels being set up...

Now to look for something similar easily available to modellers who just want a couple of bits...
Not easily, it seems. This may be the material of the future, when you don't have to get it in industrial quantities.

Chris


Can I ask what the layout will rest on when "up"?
"It's his madness that keeps him sane."

Sc0tty
Posts: 77
Joined: Wed Dec 17, 2014 7:27 pm

Re: my head hurts...

Postby Sc0tty » Sun Dec 28, 2014 9:57 pm

Hi Dad-1, just to clarify, I have 2 x 6ft x 2ft 12mm plyboards, which due to space issues will not be a permanent layout, thus I have to find a way to build two baseboards that when connected together make a 6ft x 4ft base. I am not going to be doing all the electric points and fake grass and buildings etc, this is purely a simple baseboard upon which I will run my layout (double oval with goods yards and station sidings for express loco with a couple of coaches).

I am fairly handy with the tools but I do not own a table saw so I have no way of making perfect 90 degree cuts. I will have to buy pre-cut timber of the correct size so that i can make a subfrane to stop the plywood boards from warping. That is the issue I am having. I cannot make mitre cuts of any accuracy with just a normal wood saw !!!

:)

ParkeNd
Posts: 1395
Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 5:48 pm

Re: my head hurts...

Postby ParkeNd » Sun Dec 28, 2014 11:43 pm

Heinous suggestion I know because people tend to automaticaly think OO when they think model trains, but people (like me) who are space constrained have gone with N Gauge. In 6 ft x 2 ft 6 ins with no baseboard joins whatsoever you can have the equivalent of an OO gauge layout of 12 ft x 5 ft (with joins!!).

I am guessing (correct me if I am wrong) that your 6ft x 4 ft layout is going to sit on a bed when it isn't packed away which is why the underboard wiring will be zero or negligible and thus a very basic board design without any scenery and only manual points is envisaged.

Have you considered N gauge ?

Sc0tty
Posts: 77
Joined: Wed Dec 17, 2014 7:27 pm

Re: my head hurts...

Postby Sc0tty » Mon Dec 29, 2014 10:01 am

To be honest Parkend, I am now wishing I had taken a bit more time and thought about N gauge before getting so far down the 00 path. I do have a large spare room for a rail layout, but the room also has a desks and wardrobes in there, and a sofabed and some bookshelves etc... so the actual logistics of where to put a large baseboard, and where to then store it when not in use is becoming a bit of a headache.

Trouble is, I have a lot of 00 track, 4 locos and about 12 wagons plus a beginner hornby set too, so to now go down the N gauge route would be a little soul destroying. This whole rail thing started on a whim, when I went shopping with the family and my son and I saw some beginner hornby sets at half price on black friday/saturday. I have been spending a lot on track and locos since then with sadly little thought on where and how to build the damn baseboard ! :D

Such is life !! :D

User avatar
JohnN
Posts: 441
Joined: Sun Dec 02, 2012 10:18 am
Location: Drenched in Devon

Re: my head hurts...

Postby JohnN » Mon Dec 29, 2014 10:13 am

When I got back into the hobby, I originally went OO before I realised that the baseboard sizes for the type of layout I wanted were prohibitively large. Problem was, this was after I'd gone on a spending spree. So I sold all the OO stuff I'd acquired, 3 locos, a few carriages and wagons and lots of building and accessories kits and this funded buying all the track I needed plus a few locos and wagons and kits in N. Yes I lost a bit of money in doing so, but not as much as if I'd tried to continue down a path that wasn't right for me.

Step back, have a think for a bit, play around with some plans to compare possible ideas and don't worry if that means a complete change of direction.

User avatar
Flashbang
Posts: 3245
Joined: Thu Oct 18, 2007 1:07 pm
Location: SE United Kingdom
Contact:

Re: my head hurts...

Postby Flashbang » Mon Dec 29, 2014 10:15 am

Sc0tty wrote:<Snip>
I was basically thinking of making 2 x baseboards with softwood 2 x 1 battens for the framework, but I need some sort of quick release so that the boards can be made to join together to make a 6ft x 4ft board when it is time to play trains.

I wish I had gone N gauge now.............. :( :(

Hi
Nothing wrong with a timber framing of 2x1 constructed on a grid of approx 15 inch centres.
Use 2 or 3 pairs of Cabinet Makers dowels Example these ensure perfect alinement every time the two boards are assembled. Two large toggle latches Example to pull and lock the two abutting boards together.
Image << Click the Icon to go to my website

Broken? It was working correctly when I left it.

ParkeNd
Posts: 1395
Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 5:48 pm

Re: my head hurts...

Postby ParkeNd » Mon Dec 29, 2014 10:46 am

Ummmmh.

So OO it must be. You still haven't said what the baseboards will stand on. A flexible base like the sofa bed will need a more complicated rigid pair of box baseboards to avoid disastrous rail joints.

Suggest you look at box type board designs intended for exhibition use - maybe 4 or 5 inches deep. It can have a simple flat top, probably doesn't need big holes in the cross bracing struts for extreme lightness, and tops and bottoms from 6mm decent spec ply cut free and perfectly square by B&Q when you buy it will help your construction and in getting it home. Joining by some sort of wing nut and dowel system seems normal for this type of board.


Return to “Baseboard Design and Construction”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest