Bufferstop wrote:I'd suggest for isolation you slip in an extra sleeper so that the bit that needs cutting is as short as possible. Once its firmly stuck down cut the rail with a slitting disk in a small rotary tool. Fill the gap with Plastic Padding, two part epoxy glue or even Milliput, then file it smooth.
I really meant to say, I don't know where I need to isolate it! I think I've got that worked out now. I ended up filing away the copper as, given the size of these, I don't think that I could get the control needed using a slitting disk. I cut the rail between the common crossing and rails using a piercing saw.
I've finished my first attempt at the double slip. It isn't perfect (it does work) but it is encouraging enough to have another go taking into account what I learnt from this attempt - ten pence piece included to show the size of these.
b308 wrote: b308 wrote:
Have asked and there wouldn't seem to be anything specifically for code 40 rail, though several people have said to use normal 9mm roller gauges for point construction but make sure the rail is placed on the "right" side to allow appropriate gaps! There are plenty of ordinary roller gauges on Google, or you could join the 2mm Finescale Association and buy theirs (which might be 9.42mm gauge though!).This thread might be worth a look re point construction with code 40 and there's more threads using a Google search on RMWeb about the use of code 40!http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index. ... ntry256402
Thanks b308, I'll have a look at one of the ordinary types but I was hoping to find something that could give me the check rail clearances as well. Unfortunately in that respect, the 2mm Association one wouldn't work as, while the gauge wouldn't be too much of an issue in isolation, their tighter tolerances on the check rails would be.