Question about R111 Triang Hopper Car

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JasonR
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Question about R111 Triang Hopper Car

Postby JasonR » Mon Dec 06, 2021 10:15 pm

I have just inherited a large quantity of Triang Transcontinental trains and among the mainly boxed stock are three R111 hopper cars, one green and two orange. All of these have damaged bogies.
It seems the only way to change these is to drill out the (brass?) rivet and fit new bogies using a nut & bolt arrangement.

As I don't want to damage the car underframes while drilling out the rivets, is there any way of unclipping the hopper body? The underframe and body appear to be two parts. Either that or they're broken too...!

T.I.A.

Jase
Last edited by JasonR on Sun Dec 12, 2021 12:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Mountain
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Re: Question about R111 Triang Hopper Car

Postby Mountain » Mon Dec 06, 2021 11:26 pm

The only real way is to drill out the centre rivits which are hollow.

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Bufferstop
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Re: Question about R111 Triang Hopper Car

Postby Bufferstop » Mon Dec 06, 2021 11:51 pm

The rivets aren't easy to drill, they end up rotating in the body and melting the plastic. If the bogies are beyond repair it is better to cut around the rivet and remove most of the bogie, then attack the remaining plastic and the thin metal of the rivet with a pair of pointed diagonal nippers. Once you have chopped away the plastic, the metal of the rivet can be snipped and folded in on itself to allow it to be pushed out.
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JasonR
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Re: Question about R111 Triang Hopper Car

Postby JasonR » Tue Dec 07, 2021 3:35 am

Thanks for the replies. :)
I forgot to mention that the bogies are metal, so cutting them away is a bit beyond my ability with the tools I have.

Is there any way of removing the hopper body from the underframe?

T.I.A.

Jase
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Bigmet
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Re: Question about R111 Triang Hopper Car

Postby Bigmet » Tue Dec 07, 2021 8:57 am

If you are prepared to break something, then you can separate the body components is usually the way with these Triang products. Often effectively cemented together; you might get one that 'breaks out' cleanly and easily, and the next has been glued up to 'eternal standard'. Bear in mind you are looking at over 50 year old items, plenty of time for previous owners to have 'done things' to them, so apt to be unpredictable

But there is another way, however I suppose it depends on how badly damaged these bogies are. On the bogies, push out the axles to release the wheelsets, and substitute modern pinpoint axle wheelsets, there are how-to explanations on line, see link.

viewtopic.php?t=54892

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GeraldH
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Re: Question about R111 Triang Hopper Car

Postby GeraldH » Tue Dec 07, 2021 10:13 am

It is possible to drill out the rivets with a little trick. Find a drill bit large enough to take the lip off the rivet. The pointed tip of the drill bit should nestle in the rivet hole. Twist the bogies to their full rotation with one hand and hold the drill in your other hand. Twisting the bogie will stop the rivet rotating. Put the drill on low speed and the lip on the rivet will come off allowing you to push the rivet out. Don't attempt this with a drill that will not controllably run at a very low speed as you could cause damage or injure yourself. I've done this many times with my Triang coaches without issue, it can take a while though so take it easy and be patient :) .
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Lysander
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Re: Question about R111 Triang Hopper Car

Postby Lysander » Tue Dec 07, 2021 10:53 am

I have removed a lot of these from Triang Clerestories prior to cutting them up. I simply use an old pair of Xuron shears and snip away at the rib of the rivet from underneath the bogie. With very little effort, either sufficient brass has been removed for the rivet to be pushed out or sufficient brass has been folded back towards its centre for the same to be possible. This process only damages the rivet.

Tony
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JasonR
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Re: Question about R111 Triang Hopper Car

Postby JasonR » Sun Dec 12, 2021 12:33 pm

Thanks everyone for the replies & suggestions.

@GeraldH,
I tried your method which worked a treat. I now have 3 bogie-less wagons. :idea:
I even managed to avoid breaking anything. Which is just as well, as the bodies are very firmly glued to the chassis. When it came to trying to separate the parts I bottled it... :shock:

Jase
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