Parkside Kits - Add Weight?

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Richard Lee
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Parkside Kits - Add Weight?

Postby Richard Lee » Fri Oct 04, 2019 12:32 pm

I have just had a trial running session of a nearly completed Parkside 'BY' Utility Van with a new Hornby Terrier and a couple of Hornby ex-LSWR Maunsell rebuilds. It ran very well without added weight. On the other hand, I didn't put it through anything more challenging than 36" radius points and a 30" scenic curve. Would it be worth sticking a bit of lead in it to weight it in case it is ever used on more challenging trackwork? I haven't stuck the roof on yet, so it would be easy enough to add a few bits of lead.

Thanks in anticipation of any advice.

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footplat47
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Location: Norham on banks of the river Tweed

Re: Parkside Kits - Add Weight?

Postby footplat47 » Fri Oct 04, 2019 1:49 pm

Richard Lee wrote:I have just had a trial running session of a nearly completed Parkside 'BY' Utility Van with a new Hornby Terrier and a couple of Hornby ex-LSWR Maunsell rebuilds. It ran very well without added weight. On the other hand, I didn't put it through anything more challenging than 36" radius points and a 30" scenic curve. Would it be worth sticking a bit of lead in it to weight it in case it is ever used on more challenging trackwork? I haven't stuck the roof on yet, so it would be easy enough to add a few bits of lead.

Thanks in anticipation of any advice.


Adding weight is something you need to do with all plastic light weight kits or scratch build models.
Never enough time is there.........John

Bigmet
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Re: Parkside Kits - Add Weight?

Postby Bigmet » Fri Oct 04, 2019 2:03 pm

Good plan to match weight of kit builds with comparable current RTR stock.

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stuartp
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Re: Parkside Kits - Add Weight?

Postby stuartp » Fri Oct 04, 2019 3:17 pm

I find 8p worth of tuppences is about right, evo-sticked to the floor. Opens are a bit more challenging.
Portwilliam - Southwest Scotland in the 1960s, in OO - http://stuart1968.wordpress.com/

Dad-1
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Location: Dorset - A mile from West Bay.

Re: Parkside Kits - Add Weight?

Postby Dad-1 » Fri Oct 04, 2019 5:53 pm

like stuartp I tend to use 2p pieces, cheaper than any bought weights.
In a BY van two stuck together at each end is more than enough.
I'm not in favour of adding much weight, I use the absolute minimum as all it does
is add weight to the train which becomes self defeating, particularly if you run long
trains.
As far as derailing goes it's more important to have a flat rock-free chassis and no peaks
at rail joins as we tend to have on the clubs test track.

Geoff T.
Remember ... I know nothing about railways.
viewtopic.php?f=22&t=32187 and Another on viewtopic.php?f=22&t=28436&start=60&st=0&sk=t&sd=a

Dad-1
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Location: Dorset - A mile from West Bay.

Re: Parkside Kits - Add Weight?

Postby Dad-1 » Fri Oct 04, 2019 8:04 pm

Although still very light these Parkside 'Lowfit' have lead sheet fitted within the chassis voids
and are capable of pushing a 20 wagon train without problems.
BUT get you couplings well matched !!

Image

Geoff T.
Remember ... I know nothing about railways.
viewtopic.php?f=22&t=32187 and Another on viewtopic.php?f=22&t=28436&start=60&st=0&sk=t&sd=a

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footplat47
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Location: Norham on banks of the river Tweed

Re: Parkside Kits - Add Weight?

Postby footplat47 » Fri Oct 04, 2019 8:39 pm

I make weights from old fishing weights.
When I mentioned this on another forum they were not happy about it saying that lead was not PC these days.
My take on that is we are grown ups now, we dont suck it or our fingers after using the stuff. ........I still use old fishing weights and I learned my trade of plumbing in the 1960s and we were working with the stuff then and it never did me any harm. :D Im 72 and still plodding along. :D
Never enough time is there.........John

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Ironduke
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Location: Ballarat Victoria Australia
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Re: Parkside Kits - Add Weight?

Postby Ironduke » Fri Oct 04, 2019 10:45 pm

Previously I've used the self-adhesive weights they use for automotive wheel balancing.
Image
Regards
Rob

Firefly16
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Re: Parkside Kits - Add Weight?

Postby Firefly16 » Fri Oct 04, 2019 11:48 pm

Lead aquarium plant weighting sold in rolled strips is useful. My preference for scratchbuilt stock however is the flat bar section 'L' brackets for supporting lightweight shelving available from ironmongers and DIY shops. By coincidence I bought one today with 6" arms, one of which when sawn off will go inside a freelance SIPHON I am building at the moment.

Richard Lee
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Re: Parkside Kits - Add Weight?

Postby Richard Lee » Sat Oct 05, 2019 6:00 am

Thank you to everyone for the advice. In light of that advice, I will add a few small bits of lead that I happen to have inside the van to be on the safe side.

Must admit that I am impressed with the quality of the Parkside kit (although not with my workmanship). It came with decent metal wheels and brass bearings. Despite my efforts, the van runs more freely than the Hornby ex-LSWR rebuilt coaches.

Bigmet
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Re: Parkside Kits - Add Weight?

Postby Bigmet » Sat Oct 05, 2019 10:46 am

Richard Lee wrote:... It came with decent metal wheels and brass bearings. Despite my efforts, the van runs more freely than the Hornby ex-LSWR rebuilt coaches.

It was something of a sensation when metal wheelsets on cone ended 'pinpoint' steel axles, with matching brass bearing inserts, became commercially available. (The nicest of the lot for OO and EM branded 'MGW', and I cleared out Kings Cross Models entire shop stock in their close down, and still buy s/h (assembled) old kits to get these: mild steel tyre in addition to the aforementioned good stuff. I believe the 'G' in that maker's title is now found in 'Alan Gibson'.)

End result, everyone could have free rolling vehicles, not just club members fortunate enough to have a precision machinist or two among their number. They improve with running too, and will do best if they are put in initial operation with no lubrication, as the steel axle then work hardens the surface of the brass (traditional clock makers technique).

It requires real care in set up to evaluate just how free rolling, but 'rolls away on a true 1 in 200' is quite possible in OO, and train lengths of prototype size then become easily possible. You can even run into the trouble of unbraked trains if your layout has significant gradients, small loco able to get a train movng, but cannot stop it once going downhill. Hornby;s J15 has this trouble going down my 1 in 80. No can stoppppp!

Not the best bearing combo I have ever seen though. Trix UK was at one time owned by a business (possibly Courtalds?) with interests in polymers. At that time they produced a BR Commonwealth pattern coach bogie at 3.8mm scale in the slipperiest stuff imaginable. Like an idiot I sold all but a pair of those I owned, while in a 'finescale' phase: why would I want bogies with an underscale wheelbase? The accidentally retained pair are under the most free running vehicle I have: will roll away if there is any gradient...

Dad-1
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Location: Dorset - A mile from West Bay.

Re: Parkside Kits - Add Weight?

Postby Dad-1 » Sat Oct 05, 2019 2:16 pm

No Stopping !!
Made me laugh Bigmet.

Out kitchen work-tops are supposed to be level, but my best free rolling stock will roll !!

Geoff T.
Remember ... I know nothing about railways.
viewtopic.php?f=22&t=32187 and Another on viewtopic.php?f=22&t=28436&start=60&st=0&sk=t&sd=a


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