Class 30 D8000

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galliford
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Class 30 D8000

Postby galliford » Sun Apr 28, 2019 2:28 pm

I need info on these old diesels. Does aybody know values of choke & condenser? also want to fit Hornby D couplings, but best type?. Also best tyres to use to replace old ones. Intend to convert my 3 rails to 2 rail an also add Chip. Any help would be acccepted gratefully.

mahoganydog
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Re: Class 30 D8000

Postby mahoganydog » Sun Apr 28, 2019 3:12 pm

Hi Galliford,

D8000 was actually a class 20 rather than 30! My advice is to find a two rail chassis from a Wrenn model which will have tension lock couplings already fitted. Two railing a three rail model is not for a beginner and will ruin the value of the model and to fit tension lock couplings there is nothing that is a bolt on fit nor is it an easy conversion.

To DCC one of these you first need to ensure that both brushes are isolated from the chassis as one is grounded to it via the brush spring. The best way of doing this is with fine heatshrink on the bare arm of the spring. You will need to make a small contact that mimics the other on the original isolated side. Next step is find a bolt that is grounded to the chassis and use this to make a new connection. Make a new connection with a solder tag (or make a strip of copper/brass) and attach a wire to it. Next disconnect the existing pickup wire from the motor brush and connect the chip as per the instructions given by the chip maker.

Be aware that you will need a chip with a two amp rating to make sure the higher current drain of an old motor won't keep causing it to cut out.

Jim
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Tom@Crewe
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Re: Class 30 D8000

Postby Tom@Crewe » Sun Apr 28, 2019 3:27 pm

Never enough time...........

galliford
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Re: Class 30 D8000

Postby galliford » Sun Apr 28, 2019 3:48 pm

Hi Jim thankyou for great info. The Class 30 I took of the Box. It is 20 and the model is L30 (2230).
I have chipped many locos and was aware there may be problems. The intention is to rebuild a couple of my Class 20 with revision to coupling, add Chip and in one case I will have to repaint to see how they perform. Having problems sorting out paint for roof and body. looking at Fox site but not sure what actual colour is.
Thanks Jim all help is great.
Colin

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Bufferstop
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Re: Class 30 D8000

Postby Bufferstop » Sun Apr 28, 2019 9:46 pm

You say you've chipped a few locos, have you converted any three rail to two rail. Replacing the wheels with compatible two rail ones is probably a bigger problem than sorting the wiring to the chip.
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mahoganydog
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Re: Class 30 D8000

Postby mahoganydog » Sun Apr 28, 2019 10:29 pm

Bufferstop wrote:You say you've chipped a few locos, have you converted any three rail to two rail. Replacing the wheels with compatible two rail ones is probably a bigger problem than sorting the wiring to the chip.


Good point. There is also an issue I overlooked; early three rail D8000's have no recess for a two rail pickup. It is way easier just to find a two rail chassis with the right couplings. Contrary to what many will think an awful lot of Wrenn models are not limited editions, they're mass produced making them cheap to buy especially if unboxed.....

Jim
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Bigmet
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Re: Class 30 D8000

Postby Bigmet » Sun Apr 28, 2019 10:41 pm

galliford wrote:...Does anybody know values of choke & condenser? also want to fit Hornby D couplings, but best type?. Also best tyres to use to replace old ones. Intend to convert my 3 rails to 2 rail an also add Chip. Any help would be acccepted gratefully.

You don't need to worry about the choke and condenser if fitting a decoder, as these take care of suppression, which is what these discrete components were for. Likewise since new wheelsets will be required for 2 rail operation, no need to bother looking for traction tyres for the original wheelsets. It's a fair bet that the original magnets will need remagnetising or replacement, most magnets from this period will have significantly lower field strength than when originally made. New wiper pick ups will be required

I would think carefully before starting this project. You need to be really keen to get these locos running in this form, as these changes are all going to cost money, and you will need premium decoders (= more expense) to obtain good operation. The suggestion of swapping the mechanisms for Wrenn 2 rail units may well prove cheaper.

galliford
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Re: Class 30 D8000

Postby galliford » Mon Apr 29, 2019 7:27 pm

Hi everybody who help me.
I have been looking at the wiring on the 3 rail and can convert it with the provisos that have been mentioned. The wiring for both is basically the same. Being an electrical engineer I just like to know what all the bits are i.e the choke and condenser. Parts of the body are plastic so rearranging the wheels and tyres on the 3 rail has got one working on 2 rail. The Decoder problem I looked at and i got max 0.5A run and 0.79A stall. A 1.0 or 1.5A might suit.
I feel this is a tough old unit, not like the plasticy model today and is well worth the effort to give them a new life. I thank you all for your assistance which I am using, please keep it coming if you think of anything else. When I complete the rebuilds I will tell hoow it went so other people can do the same.
Thanks
Colin

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Bufferstop
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Re: Class 30 D8000

Postby Bufferstop » Mon Apr 29, 2019 8:09 pm

If you intend to convert to DCC, don't worry about choke(inductor) and condenser (capacitor). They are normally out of the cicuit when a decoder is fitted in a socket, hardwiring just leave them out.
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galliford
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Re: Class 20 D8000

Postby galliford » Thu May 16, 2019 8:29 pm

Got the wiring sorted to modern std. Trying to work out exactly which wheels are insulated. I have 4 units and they are all different. Service leaflet #13 is my guide but none match it. Once I solve this I can get on to 3 rail and then chip one to test it out. Anybody with info would be appreciated. Mustlook at Wrenn to see what ins they do.[The audience is the 4th wall in a room and is often well papered.][/quote]

Bigmet
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Re: Class 30 D8000

Postby Bigmet » Fri May 17, 2019 11:23 am

galliford wrote:... The Decoder problem I looked at and i got max 0.5A run and 0.79A stall. A 1.0 or 1.5A might suit...

Good to see you are making progress. With those readings definitely a decoder with a 1A+ continuous rating, and I would prefer roughly double the stall current, so 1.5A continuous. I woud suggest a hunt around in Zimo's range, their MX64 series used to have that higher current rating. Zimo excel in motor control adjustment to optimise the output to suit the motor, and will get the best that can be achieved out of even quite crude mechanisms.

I have been using a small group of MX64s bought over ten years ago to 'tame' old hign current mechanisms until such time as a modern can motor is installed. Most of these decoders are on their third assignment now, and I have considerable confidence in this brand's suite of motor control options.

(On a side note, I feel you might be surprised were you to sample Bachmann's class 20. A plastic body shell fits snugly over the largest possible cast mazak chassis block, containing a large five pole can motor with flywheels and all wheel drive and pick up. They run smoothly and near silently - the loudest sound is typically the wheels on the rails - pull mightily, and have given no trouble in regular operation over the past fifteen years, drawing circa 200mA max from a Bachmann badged ESU lokpilot v1 rated 700mA continuous which cost under £10. The new stuff is rather good mechanically.)


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