Getting started

Discuss model railway topics and news that do not fit into other sections.
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Mountain
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Location: Somewhere in Wales, UK.

Re: Getting started

Postby Mountain » Fri Apr 19, 2019 10:54 pm

Bachmann also do some beautiful locos and stock in 0n30. That too is not cheap, but it is really lovely stuff which can give a wild west feel if desired. Mind you, it is a larger scale which could be an advantage or a dissadvantage depending on ones needs.

Spike
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Joined: Sat Apr 06, 2019 6:24 pm

Re: Getting started

Postby Spike » Sat Apr 20, 2019 10:24 am

Hymirl wrote:Bachmann have a good selection of old time American in HO. Might ge expensive to get hold of here... so perhaps fill your boots while you're over there!


Oh wow some lovely trains that they do, but yes they are pricey but might just be worth it to get the look right.

Funny enough in one of the towns that we are visiting it does have a model train layout set up and running so will go there and take a look.

Spike
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Re: Getting started

Postby Spike » Sat Apr 20, 2019 10:32 am

Mountain wrote:Bachmann also do some beautiful locos and stock in 0n30. That too is not cheap, but it is really lovely stuff which can give a wild west feel if desired. Mind you, it is a larger scale which could be an advantage or a dissadvantage depending on ones needs.


There are some lovely trains in that scale too, I notice the OO HO and On30 all run on 16.5mm so it is just the body of the train that is bigger I am correct in thinking that, still learning all the different sizes and terminologies.

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Mountain
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Location: Somewhere in Wales, UK.

Re: Getting started

Postby Mountain » Sat Apr 20, 2019 2:41 pm

Yes. To simplify things, 0 gauge, which is 7mm scale so is larger (7mm to every foot) usually has a track width of 32mm. The narrow gauge of 0 gauge uses the same width as 00 gauge track (16.5mm) for convenience, though some modellers may use a different width like 14mm depending on the prototype they want to model and how keen they are etc. Now both 00 and H0 also use 16.5mm gauge width. H0 is 3.5mm scale and 00 is 4mm scale. 00 is a compromise so does not use the correct gauge width for the scale while H0 is much closer.
Not to confuse things too much, but going back to 7mm narrow gauge in its most popular forms running on 16.5mm gauge width, we have 0n30 which are American 7mm scale narrow gauge models, we have 0e which are European 7mm scale narrow gauge models and we have 0-16.5 which are British 7mm scale narrow gauge models.
As long as there are no low bridges or tunnels or no platforms which maybe in the way, I can easily run my 7mm narrow gauge models on someones 00 gauge layout, though they will be a different scale so my look a little odd! In theory one can make a layout with general scenery and run both scales as long as there is nothing which will identify one scale or the other on the layout itself (E.g. a little man or a building). That way trains can pass through the layout in more then one scale and look ok as long as the two scales are not run at the same time.
7mm narrow gauge in the UK form being 0-16.5 really suits me as after years of modelling in 00 gauge and watching prices going up and up, I am able to model in 7mm narrow gauge cheaper then I would in 00. Also the larger scale makes painting things and mking things easier. There are other advantages. As the main donor locos I use to model in 7mm narrow gauge are the cheap little Hornby 0-4-0's, they will go round very sharp curves, so the space I need to build a layout can be smaller then if I modelled in 00. In the larger scale, coffee sturers, lollypop sticks and things like that look ok when used to make coaches or waggons with them, where if I tried to do the same in 4mm scale if would not be so easy to make them look right as they would appear a bit thick or wide to represent planks. Toy soldiers are a cheap way to represent people in 7mm scale if one wants to save money as toy soldiers are just the right height. Of corse, one can buy 7mm scale model railway people, but as with most things with a model railway label they tend to be expensive, where if they are classed in the toy bracket, they are quite reasonably priced.

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End2end
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Location: At the end....... and sometimes at the other end

Re: Getting started

Postby End2end » Tue Apr 23, 2019 11:55 pm

Just found this on ebay. 2 Loco's set with digital controller. Currently 1 bid at £100. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hornby-R1126 ... SwtEBctNuP
17 hours to go but no feedback!!!
Thanks
End2end
"St Blazey's" - The progress and predicaments.
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Spike
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Re: Getting started

Postby Spike » Thu Apr 25, 2019 2:20 pm

Well today is the day, I have finished work and I am sitting here waiting for the delivery company to deliver my first train set.

At least now i can start to plan properly what i am going to do with the layout.

I know I have bought an OO gauge set but after doing a lot of looking and thinking of themes I might yet still go HO as there seems to be a lot more choice.

I was thinking and hopeful that I was going to go old wild west around the 1850 on wards for my theme on the layout and with OO I am very limited on what you can and cannot get as in USA they seem to go more for HO or On30 and the selection is huge on buildings and train selection for that era.

Watch this space

Bigmet
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Re: Getting started

Postby Bigmet » Thu Apr 25, 2019 4:34 pm

The choice in HO is truly huge. But 1850s, not so much. You'll have a little more joy looking for the classic 'old wild west' which is 1865 onwards, post the civil war. The railways that opened up the wild west really start with the first transcontinental connection in 1870. Consider that Dodge City was founded after that, 1872 I think...

Spike
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Re: Getting started

Postby Spike » Thu Apr 25, 2019 7:44 pm

Bigmet wrote:The choice in HO is truly huge. But 1850s, not so much. You'll have a little more joy looking for the classic 'old wild west' which is 1865 onwards, post the civil war. The railways that opened up the wild west really start with the first transcontinental connection in 1870. Consider that Dodge City was founded after that, 1872 I think...


To be totally honest I have no idea why I put 1850s when all along I have been thinking of modeling my layout on the town called Deadwood (I know there was a series made of it) which originated around 1875 and then taking the track to town called Lead, i am sure I will be able to have them at either ends of my layout with a nice bit of scenery in between.

Its railroad came in 1888 so plenty of scope.

heda
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Re: Getting started

Postby heda » Fri Apr 26, 2019 7:55 am

I'm looking forward to seeing this, something different.
Dave

Spike
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Joined: Sat Apr 06, 2019 6:24 pm

Re: Getting started

Postby Spike » Fri Apr 26, 2019 3:44 pm

Well thats what I thought, I did look at a lot of set ups whilst waiting for my first set to arrive and they all seem to feature around the era of the trains that people buy, I have not seen one from the wild west era, I do love USA I will be there next Friday on another road trip, and I will be visiting Deadwood and also Lead, so hopefully the place will have photos up and around the place for me to look at and get ideas.

Then when I get back the real planning starts.

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Mountain
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Location: Somewhere in Wales, UK.

Re: Getting started

Postby Mountain » Fri Apr 26, 2019 4:03 pm

I once saw a beautiful wild west layout at an exhibition in H0 and it was a large end to end layout set in the 1880's or before that date. They were having so much fun sending trains back and fore on it to each other as they were having a mess about time.

4472
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Joined: Fri Sep 16, 2005 2:16 pm

Re: Getting started

Postby 4472 » Fri Apr 26, 2019 4:44 pm

Try a quick Google for 'wild west model railway layout' . Quite a few and some videos
Great grandson of Peter Benjamin Spicer (LNWR retired)

Spike
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Joined: Sat Apr 06, 2019 6:24 pm

Re: Getting started

Postby Spike » Sat Apr 27, 2019 6:51 pm

4472 wrote:Try a quick Google for 'wild west model railway layout' . Quite a few and some videos


I did and wow there are some fantastic layouts.
at least looking at those it means that somewhere will sell me all of the stuff that I am going to need, even though I might have to get it from USA.

Spike
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Joined: Sat Apr 06, 2019 6:24 pm

Re: Getting started

Postby Spike » Sun Apr 28, 2019 4:57 pm

Well today was the day, I unpacked the set and got started to put it together as I wanted to check that everything was working before I go on me holidays on Thursday for 3 weeks.

Everything works fine and with only having one train I could not really test how the DCC will work when you have more than one loco running at the same time but that was not a problem as through time It will all become clear. I just wanted to make sure it did work.

Few niggles but i suppose these could be as it was a kit set and not bought individually.

1. is it just me or does everything feel really (not going to use the word cheap) brittle and plasticy, the last time I held a model train was over 40 years ago so could just be the sign of the times I guess.

2 Points, I really need electric points, having to keep getting up to change them bugged me from the off :D but on my layout they will be electric so not much of a problem there.

3 when going over the points the train seemed to be "hunting" as though it was struggling to find power, again i put this down to the way the points are.

4. I also have a problem with one of the cars, it has three axils and will not go over the points into the siding without derailing, is there a solution to this or is it just the way things are. also i noticed the coupling point is a lot narrower than the other cars and the loco see pics

https://www.flickr.com/photos/157445663@N05/46806511685/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/157445663@N05/32779700257/in/dateposted-public/

Dad-1
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Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2008 8:05 pm
Location: Dorset - A mile from West Bay.

Re: Getting started

Postby Dad-1 » Mon Apr 29, 2019 9:37 am

O.K you have two problems there.

The first one is the Dapol 6 wheeled tank wagon.
They are notorious for derailing for the very obvious engineering problem of running
3 parallel axles with limited sideways play through curved track. Some remove that
central wheel-set and run as a 4 wheel wagon. That is NOT acceptable to me, so the
other cure all is to file away the flanges off the wheels on that central axle. This allows
the wheels room to move over the rail head without any limitation. Even when photographed
close up it's impossible to see the flanges are missing.

Your second problem is the miss-match of couplings. These two different designs are not
well matched and where the narrow tension-lock has the hook of the wide type outside the
central void this will put sideways pressure to the outside of the Narrow version resulting in
derailing. The long term answer is to only use one type of coupling. I will ONLY use narrow
types. Even if you keep to narrow types you can experience less than perfect coupling
because all manufacturers have minute differences. Hornby have longer hooks that
Bachmann so only one hook is ever doing the work. Dapol couplings sag and need sorting
out, get ALL coupling running to within half a mm for all the buffing bar interfaces.

Sounds daunting - No not really, but I will only use Bachmann couplings on my stock which
has given me exceedingly reliable connections on train of up to 70 wagons long and reversing
trains of up to 40 over Peco points without problems.

Geoff T.
Remember ... I know nothing about railways.
viewtopic.php?f=22&t=32187 and Another on viewtopic.php?f=22&t=28436&start=60&st=0&sk=t&sd=a


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