Kadee #5 self assembly Couplings

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retiredoperator
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Kadee #5 self assembly Couplings

Postby retiredoperator » Tue Nov 07, 2017 6:59 am

Hi Modellers. To help me run my Shunting Puzzle efficiently I went out and bought some new Couplings Kadee #5 to be precise ( old reliable?) but you have to assemble them yourself , as it says on the tin, but I’m all fingers and thumbs. And I have dropped myself right in it.
I am at a loss would one of you fine Modellers please tell me where i’m Going wrong??
Happy modelling Kev

allan
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Re: Kadee #5 self assembly Couplings

Postby allan » Tue Nov 07, 2017 7:04 am

You might have done better to buy #148 couplers. They are more reliable than #5s, have fewer parts, and snap together.

mumbles
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Re: Kadee #5 self assembly Couplings

Postby mumbles » Tue Nov 07, 2017 7:29 am

I use a plastic weld type glue, applied very sparingly with a small paint brush round the edge. You start with the plastic box, then the coupling, then spring, then the lid. Making sure the lip is to the front and up. Hopefully this picture shows the order and which way round each component goes. Once together pinch it while you touch a small bit of weld round the join making sure its not too much to get into the inside, causing the thing to seize up!

PSX_20171107_072455.jpg

allan
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Re: Kadee #5 self assembly Couplings

Postby allan » Tue Nov 07, 2017 8:27 am

OK. My first post still stands..., but, inside the packet is an instruction leaflet. Figure one shows how the coupler is assembled into the draft gear box and cover. It does not snap together, and if you put it down it will all come apart! It is usually held together with the screw that holds the "assembly" onto the underside of the wagon - though some modellers that I know use a smidgeon of MEK to glue the box together.

Now go to figure six, on the back of the leaflet. The dimensions given in figure six are critical if the coupler is to work to specification.

So, put the wagon that is to be fitted with the coupler onto a piece of spare track. Use your Kadee coupler height gauge (and if you don't have one, go and get one) to set the height of the coupler mounting pad. The gauge has a coupler on one end only: put it on the track with the coupler facing away from the wagon, and roll the wagon over the blunt end of the gauge. Given that you are probably modelling in 4mm (00) scale, and that the couplers are designed for the smaller 3.5mm (H0) scale, it is likely that there will be quite a gap between the gauge and the bottom of the wagon. This gap has to be filled with a piece of styrene, glued to the floor of the wagon, and dead level fore and aft, and sideways. Score in a centreline, fore and aft.

Now the complexty can really begin, because you will need two wagons, each with a correctly set up mounting pad. American wagons with auto-couplers do not have buffers, so, strangely enough, buffer lock is not a problem. British wagons do, usually, have buffers, and only rarely do those buffers actually work. You will have to work out, for yourself, how far away from the buffer-beam the coupler heads should be, so that they do not cause buffer lock on the curves on your layout, and so that you can drill the hole for the screw that holds the coupler onto the wagon in the right place. Take a couple of couplers that have been glued up, and blu-tack them onto the coupler pads (upside down, if necessary, 'cos they'll be too low) and run your wagons through your tightest curves, sliding the couplers forward until the wagons run nicely, without buffer lock. If you are lucky, the centre hole in the coupler box will have plastic above it. If not, you'll need #146 couplers, which are a bit longer. Mark the position of the hole over the mounting pad, and clean off the blue-tack. Drill a 2mm hole exactly on centre, and square, and screw the couplers on with a #2PK screw ( couplers right way up!), and try the wagons out. Wagons will not couple on curved track, without help, and may require extra weight if they are to couple without help.

Nuttin' to it, hey!

I think that I have covered most bases...

Suzie
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Re: Kadee #5 self assembly Couplings

Postby Suzie » Tue Nov 07, 2017 9:32 am

It is well worth getting the 2/56 Kadee drill and tap set along with some 2/56 screws. It all holds together with the screw.

#5 is usually too short for most applications - look at using #146 as your starting point and only use shorter ones if required.

Suzie x

allan
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Re: Kadee #5 self assembly Couplings

Postby allan » Tue Nov 07, 2017 10:13 am

Suzie wrote:It is well worth getting the 2/56 Kadee drill and tap set along with some 2/56 screws. It all holds together with the screw.

#5 is usually too short for most applications - look at using #146 as your starting point and only use shorter ones if required.

Suzie x


I use #153 as standard, but I don't have to cope with buffers ('cept for the old buffers, down at the club..).

Yes, I use 2/56 screws, but find that if I drill 1.85mm the screws will self-tap. M2 screws may be easier to find - drill 1.7mm

Suzie
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Re: Kadee #5 self assembly Couplings

Postby Suzie » Tue Nov 07, 2017 3:27 pm

The 2-56 tap and drill set #246, and 2-56 nylon screws #256, should be available from where you buy your Kadee couplers. These are good quality items.

The tap and drill work well in a pin vice.

Suzie x

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Peterm
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Re: Kadee #5 self assembly Couplings

Postby Peterm » Tue Nov 07, 2017 10:50 pm

146/148's really are an awful lot easier to assemble and they clip together. I can assemble one in less than a minute. A tiny amount of powdered graphite works wonders too and don't forget to burnish the parts with a fibre glass pen.

If you look through the Kadee website you'll see that you can get different length shanks to fit the boxes.
Pete.

allan
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Re: Kadee #5 self assembly Couplings

Postby allan » Tue Nov 07, 2017 11:12 pm

Suzie wrote:The 2-56 tap and drill set #246, and 2-56 nylon screws #256, should be available from where you buy your Kadee couplers. These are good quality items.

Suzie x

I used the nylon screws for a while, but they break, eventually.

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Ironduke
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Re: Kadee #5 self assembly Couplings

Postby Ironduke » Wed Nov 08, 2017 1:16 am

Peterm wrote:146/148's really are an awful lot easier to assemble and they clip together.


If you've already invested in #5s including gearboxes you can buy the snap-together #242 gearboxes (as used in the #146 and #148 coupler kits) separately in packs of 10 pairs for quite a reasonable price.

Hardest to assemble is the #233 gearbox, but I found them the most versatile for fitting to pre-NEM socket locos, back when I had good eyes.
Regards
Rob

allan
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Re: Kadee #5 self assembly Couplings

Postby allan » Wed Nov 08, 2017 1:58 am

Ironduke wrote:Hardest to assemble is the #233 gearbox, but I found them the most versatile for fitting to pre-NEM socket locos, back when I had good eyes.


Oh, I completely agree. Fortunately, with the advent of whisker couplers, they are quite obselete, replaced by the clip-together #252 coupler boxes. https://kadee.com/htmbord/page252.htm

Sammo
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Re: Kadee #5 self assembly Couplings

Postby Sammo » Sun Nov 12, 2017 10:10 am

A few months ago I commented on an article in the Model Rail magazine whereby the Tech guy advises the Kadee No 5 couplings.

Did you get your Kadee 5 coupling idea from that article?

I would recommend going to the 1030 starter kit and see what one is more suitable for your requirements.

I've ended up spending just over £500 on these due to the quantity of my loco's and rolling stock.
It obviously depends on how many items you want to use Kadee couplings on but in my opinion they are worth it in the end.

I found the number 5 to be of no use whatsoever and I have a vast amount of different make and model of rolling stock

I use 141 - 142 - 143 - 144 - 145 - 146 - 147 - 148 ~17 - 18- 19 and 20

The kit comes with a height gauge along with everything you initially need apart from drills
I purchased a number drill set which gives me all I need for all my eventualities

retiredoperator
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Re: Kadee #5 self assembly Couplings

Postby retiredoperator » Thu Jan 04, 2018 3:47 pm

Happy New Year Modellers. Earlier today I added a reply to this thread of Kadee #5 self assembly Couplings . At my age I cannot remember exactly what I had written ?
But basically it was now that I have mastered Kadee s , I am having trouble with getting them to stay “ Uncoupled”, they uncouple everytime , and remain uncoupled. But when my very slow 08 Shunter propels them up a siding they couple up again and follow the Loco out of the siding. Would some kind Modeller please tell me how to cure this problem??
Happy modelling Kev

Bigmet
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Re: Kadee #5 self assembly Couplings

Postby Bigmet » Thu Jan 04, 2018 4:52 pm

They recouple automatically whenever they separate - even very momentarily - and are then pushed together again. In practise this means that when you uncouple a pair of Kadees on a magnet, the push to engage the jaws while open on the magnet, and then keep them in the uncoupled state to propel along a siding to be parked, has to be maintained smoothly until the loco stops and then backs away. There must be no bumping from the loco, and the wagons must not be able to roll forward of the loco on a slight down gradient for example.

One way to keep the wagons tight to the loco while pushing is a little axle drag in the far end vehicle. Can use a brake van for that if the move is dropping off a whole train.

Some shunting puzzle types even put axle drags and/or weight on all vehicles to control movement closely.

If you have a good bright penlight type torch shine that vertically down on the uncoupled pair over the magnet and then watch the action as they are pushed, hopefully engaging uncoupled while over the magnet, and then keep watching to see exactly what happens to let them back into the coupled state.

HTH!

allan
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Re: Kadee #5 self assembly Couplings

Postby allan » Fri Jan 05, 2018 10:52 am

Without looking it up, Kadee recommends a minimum wagon weight of 3.5oz (100g) for reliable operation.


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