Hiding wiring

Discuss model railway topics and news that do not fit into other sections.
4472
Posts: 56
Joined: Fri Sep 16, 2005 2:16 pm

Hiding wiring

Postby 4472 » Thu Jun 08, 2017 3:16 pm

I am going to light up my Hornby station with Hornby canopies and am scratching my rear trying to figure out how to drop the supply wires from the lamps in the canopies down to the baseboard without them showing too much. I realise I will have to drill a supply hole or holes, but I am not a master of disguise. Any sensible suggestions will be warmly welcomed
Great grandson of Peter Benjamin Spicer (LNWR retired)

User avatar
End2end
Posts: 3562
Joined: Sun Jan 12, 2014 9:58 pm
Location: At the end....... and sometimes at the other end

Re: Hiding wiring

Postby End2end » Thu Jun 08, 2017 3:21 pm

If the canopies are freestanding (supported on thier own columns), disguise them as downpipes running down the main supports by painting them the same colour as the canopy supports.
If the canopies are built as stand offs from the station building (no vertical supports) drill horizontally through the station building and hide them in there.
Hope it helps.
Thanks
End2end
"St Blazey's" - The progress and predicaments.
Welcome‎
Planning
Building
St. Blazey's Works & Depot thread

Dad-1
Posts: 5398
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2008 8:05 pm
Location: Dorset - A mile from West Bay.

Re: Hiding wiring

Postby Dad-1 » Thu Jun 08, 2017 3:26 pm

Hornby station & canopies I don't have so this is rather generic ....
ALL buildings and structures have to have ground (Base Board) contact.
Most layouts are viewed from 75% or less, so somewhere out of sight from
those available viewing angles.
Other dodges using brass tube as a drain pipe, these are often within the
buildings. Simply run fine wires up the tube. A false wall leaving a small
void up which wires can be fed.
Not always easy, but that's part of the fun "Finding a way"

Geoff T.
Remember ... I know nothing about railways.
viewtopic.php?f=22&t=32187 and Another on viewtopic.php?f=22&t=28436&start=60&st=0&sk=t&sd=a

User avatar
End2end
Posts: 3562
Joined: Sun Jan 12, 2014 9:58 pm
Location: At the end....... and sometimes at the other end

Re: Hiding wiring

Postby End2end » Thu Jun 08, 2017 3:30 pm

Actually perhaps a downpipe is a bit large.
Perhaps disguise it as (well, actually what it is) an electrical cable with associated inpection box inline like this.
support.jpg
support.jpg (20.37 KiB) Viewed 836 times

Thanks
End2end
"St Blazey's" - The progress and predicaments.
Welcome‎
Planning
Building
St. Blazey's Works & Depot thread

User avatar
Bufferstop
Posts: 10331
Joined: Thu Mar 11, 2010 12:06 pm
Location: Bottom end of N. Warks line

Re: Hiding wiring

Postby Bufferstop » Thu Jun 08, 2017 5:11 pm

That's how I ran mine. The "electrical conduit" in the canopy and down the columns is stiff copper bell wire, separated into a single wire, pulled to straighten it, then tacked in place with spots of superglue. The columns have square bases which go into holes in the platform, I used a long 1mm drill to make a hole through the baseboard below the column then opened it out to 10mm from below. The wire is then extended back to the supply by fastening on a single "choc-block" connector to the tail poking through the board. so it's just two screws to slacken if I want to lift the canopy off.
Growing old, can't avoid it. Growing up, forget it!
My Layout, My Workbench Blog and My Opinions

Bigmet
Posts: 6022
Joined: Tue Aug 14, 2007 2:19 pm

Re: Hiding wiring

Postby Bigmet » Fri Jun 09, 2017 9:02 am

On structures like canopies it is best to think in terms of bare metal conductors rather than running insulated wires. These can double up as physical supports for the lighting as well as conducting the power. A scheme with a pair of parallel lengths of metal (rails!) carrying the power, with the lights between them works very well.

User avatar
End2end
Posts: 3562
Joined: Sun Jan 12, 2014 9:58 pm
Location: At the end....... and sometimes at the other end

Re: Hiding wiring

Postby End2end » Fri Jun 09, 2017 12:06 pm

I just had another idea which I've sort of used before myself and that's using a nickel conductive paint pen to "draw" circuits.
This eliminates the need for wiring and can be painted over once finalised.
You'll just need to either solder a small peice of wire from the conductive paint to the lighting bar or, paint enough on so the lighting bar sits on top of the conductive paint making the connection.

This is the pen although the sale it too expensive
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CW2000-Conduc ... SwEeFVPPRU
Hope it helps.
Thanks
End2end
"St Blazey's" - The progress and predicaments.
Welcome‎
Planning
Building
St. Blazey's Works & Depot thread

User avatar
TimberSurf
Posts: 2021
Joined: Wed Jan 08, 2014 5:47 pm
Location: N.Wales
Contact:

Re: Hiding wiring

Postby TimberSurf » Fri Jun 09, 2017 5:37 pm

End2end wrote:
This is the pen although the sale it too expensiv

End2end

Cheapest source I have found is http://uk.farnell.com/chemtronics/cw200 ... dp/1663187
or as already said 0.2mm bare wire superglued on and painted over or brass rod as drain pipes or actual structure
Image
Lumsdonia <--- Hit link to go to my website for full story and wiring advice!

User avatar
pete12345
Posts: 819
Joined: Fri Apr 14, 2006 7:53 pm
Location: Coventry

Re: Hiding wiring

Postby pete12345 » Thu Oct 19, 2017 6:43 pm

If these are the Hornby canopies which slot into their platform sections, there will be two seperate cast supports. I'd consider using the supports themselves as the two conductors and solder wires to the bottom and the lamps to the top. The supply wires can be threaded into the platform and secured in a terminal block or solder splice.
Once an engine attached to a train, was afraid of a few drops of rain...

User avatar
CandO
Posts: 134
Joined: Wed Sep 30, 2015 8:53 pm

Re: Hiding wiring

Postby CandO » Tue Oct 24, 2017 7:35 pm

Interesting reading....Some ideas to bear in mind as I scratch build some of my buildings :D

HarryR
Posts: 95
Joined: Mon May 13, 2013 9:10 pm

Re: Hiding wiring

Postby HarryR » Tue Oct 24, 2017 8:51 pm

Similar to End2End's suggestion there are conductive paint products such as

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/8352699/?grossPrice=Y&cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-PLA_UK_EN_Tools-_-Soldering_And_Desoldering_Tools-_-PRODUCT+GROUP&matchtype=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIk8C-gIKK1wIVowrTCh1ocw6MEAQYAiABEgLPk_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

£8 for 10ml seems a better cost

"Electric Paint is a nontoxic, water based, water soluble, electrically conductive paint.
It can be used in circuits as a painted resistor element, a capacitive electrode or can
function as a conductor in designs that can tolerate high resistivity. It is intended for
applications with circuits using low DC voltages at low currents.

Electric Paint adheres to a wide variety of substrates and can be applied using screen printing equipment.
Its major benefits include low cost, solubility in water and good screen life.
It is black in colour and can be over-painted with any material compatible with a water-based paint."

User avatar
TimberSurf
Posts: 2021
Joined: Wed Jan 08, 2014 5:47 pm
Location: N.Wales
Contact:

Re: Hiding wiring

Postby TimberSurf » Tue Oct 24, 2017 9:55 pm

Beware, electric paint is nowhere near as conductive as the nickel or silver types, it takes a really thick bead to light just one led. The nickel from farnell will go 4 times as far and can be much thinner.
Image
Lumsdonia <--- Hit link to go to my website for full story and wiring advice!

HarryR
Posts: 95
Joined: Mon May 13, 2013 9:10 pm

Re: Hiding wiring

Postby HarryR » Wed Oct 25, 2017 11:58 am

TimberSurf wrote:Beware, electric paint is nowhere near as conductive as the nickel or silver types, it takes a really thick bead to light just one led. The nickel from farnell will go 4 times as far and can be much thinner.


Thats useful to know. Although this supplementary question is probably not useful for 4472, can I ask you TimberSurf, how good is copper tape for conductivity, better or worse than the above?

User avatar
TimberSurf
Posts: 2021
Joined: Wed Jan 08, 2014 5:47 pm
Location: N.Wales
Contact:

Re: Hiding wiring

Postby TimberSurf » Wed Oct 25, 2017 12:16 pm

Copper tape is essentially just uninsulated flat copper wire and as such will outperform all above (smaller cross section/lower resistance), the issue is that it would need soldering at both ends.
I am convinced the best option for the OP is either brass rod as a drain pipe, or single strand insulated copper wire (easier to shape form) as drain pipe or "electrical conduit"
Image
Lumsdonia <--- Hit link to go to my website for full story and wiring advice!

User avatar
Bufferstop
Posts: 10331
Joined: Thu Mar 11, 2010 12:06 pm
Location: Bottom end of N. Warks line

Re: Hiding wiring

Postby Bufferstop » Wed Oct 25, 2017 3:04 pm

Re: using the Triang/Hornby cast columns as conductors. Soldering presumes you can scrape through the Margate green gunge in which they were dipped to get at the bare metal. It seems to resist all methods of paint removal. Which is a shame, as under that gunge is some neatly moulded decorative detail. When I was preparing to build my canopy I spent considerable time sorting through the junk boxes at train fairs for those columns, they outlive the plastic cannopies so they are often to be found loose in the odds and ends, sometimes in the box that's shoved underneath the table.
Growing old, can't avoid it. Growing up, forget it!
My Layout, My Workbench Blog and My Opinions


Return to “General Model Railway Discussion / News”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest